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1957 Buick Station Wagon


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#1 NickySixx

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Posted 07 May 2012 - 08:11 PM

Hi, I just bought a new project car a 1957 Buick Station Wagon. So I looked around for some forums and came across this one! I work for Kanter Auto Products and I figured I'd get a new project and step aside from my 1926 Model T and my 1996 Mustang GT and have some fun with this!

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#2 buick5563

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Posted 07 May 2012 - 09:13 PM

Love a wagon! Congrats
Mike Middleton

http://www.midtownrestorations.com
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#3 jackofalltrades70

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Posted 07 May 2012 - 11:54 PM

Wonderful world of wagons! And you've got a nice place to get some restoration assistance. Welcome and we're here to listen, help and comment on your restore! Buickful! Matt
Matt Whitaker
BCA#45694
AACA#996555
1947 Buick 56C (used for parts on the Roadmasters) but still have her carcass
1947 Buick 56C (waiting to go pick her up. Complete parts car)
1947 Buick 76C
1948 Buick 76C
1956 Buick Super 4 door
1977 Corvette

"Handle every stressful situation like a dog, If you cant eat it or play with it, just pee on it and walk away!":D

#4 NickySixx

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Posted 08 May 2012 - 03:47 AM

Thanks! I'm debating were to start. It's a project for me and my dad. He's beating cancer right now and I think this will be an awesome distraction and he loves this car. He's quite happy about it and I cant wait to dig in with him. I'm going start by checking out the steering linkage and trying to get the motor to run. It was running when it was parked so I dont think it'll be tough to get it go again. Any suggestions on the restoration?

#5 NickySixx

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Posted 09 May 2012 - 12:14 AM

Any suggestions on first attempt to start the car for the first time? I'm going to disconnect the fuel tank because I'm sure that it is all gunked up and hook a gas can up to the fuel line to pull the fuel directly from it. The car was running when it was parked to everything was working but that was quite some time ago!

#6 jackofalltrades70

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Posted 09 May 2012 - 01:44 AM

Nick,
Suggest that you also drop the oil pan and clean it out. The engine could have accumulated a lot of junk that you don't want to break loose and get back up in the engine. Dropping the gas tank, cleaning and sealing is also a very good idea, as you stated. You might want to put some penetrating oil of some sort in the plug holes if it's been sitting a really long time 3 or 4 days before you try to start it. Matt
Matt Whitaker
BCA#45694
AACA#996555
1947 Buick 56C (used for parts on the Roadmasters) but still have her carcass
1947 Buick 56C (waiting to go pick her up. Complete parts car)
1947 Buick 76C
1948 Buick 76C
1956 Buick Super 4 door
1977 Corvette

"Handle every stressful situation like a dog, If you cant eat it or play with it, just pee on it and walk away!":D

#7 jackofalltrades70

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Posted 09 May 2012 - 01:45 AM

BTW, I hope you and your father have a very long build on this car and that he beats the cancer. Matt
Matt Whitaker
BCA#45694
AACA#996555
1947 Buick 56C (used for parts on the Roadmasters) but still have her carcass
1947 Buick 56C (waiting to go pick her up. Complete parts car)
1947 Buick 76C
1948 Buick 76C
1956 Buick Super 4 door
1977 Corvette

"Handle every stressful situation like a dog, If you cant eat it or play with it, just pee on it and walk away!":D

#8 buick man

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Posted 09 May 2012 - 02:32 AM

Nicky:

What happens when these old cars sit is sorta accumulative compared to today's cars.

Here are some concerns that you should look into prior to starting a long sleeping older engine:

- The old fuel from years gone by and the tarnish and varnish those types of fuels created builds up and then if these cars sit it hardens. That means the varnish collects in the hydraulic valve lifters making them solid. This causes bent valves and push rods when you go to start it back up again. Costly mistake.

- The oil become gummy bear and freezes the by-pass spring loaded ball valve in the oil pump and in the oil filter base/boss. This can then allow no oil to bypass or can be clogged up altogether. Costly mistake.

- Remove the engine oil filter boss that attaches to the engine block itself and clean this out and the bypass check spring and ball valve then reinstall with a new gasket.

- The gas tank contents no matter how much or how little goes to varnish.

- The carb floats get gummy bear as well and stick as does the gas inlet accelerator plunger getting dried and stuck.

- Taking off the valve covers and cleaning out the top of the heads where the rocker arms and shaft reside. Because on these Buick nailhead engines the head is tops are level and gunk and gummy can reside in the recess areas.

- Take the valley engine cover, tip it upside down and drill out the spot welds, remove the cover plate that contains the oil mist/vapor aluminum mesh. This is full of gunk/gummy and particles that can recirculate back into the engine and cause harm. After a through cleaning a machine shop can re-spot weld the cover back into place after replacing the old mesh with new copper mesh.


These are immediate items that need to be looked into before starting. The oil pan can be easily dropped in the 57 by removing the idler arm bracket 2 bolts, and allowing the steering cross arm to be lowered. Then the pan comes off and the oil pump can be removed, cleaned up and put back in with a new gasket set. The gas tank can be easily removed be disconnecting the rubber gas line and emptying the tank. Then simply unhook the two supporting straps. Takes all of 10 minutes. The valley engine cover can be accessed by removing the carb/intake manifold all as one unit and lifting out. 2 bolts removes the valley/engine cover and you have complete access to the hydraulic valve lifters and cam area. The valve train and rocker shafts can be easily opened up and cleaned out and checked.

All in all you have about six, 4 hour evenings or so in opening up and cleaning out the afore mentioned areas. Then you can start to consider getting it started.

Have fun ;)
David - BCA # 45902 - 1957 Roadmaster 76A Coupe, 60K Survivor - RR & 731 and 1957 Roadmaster Model 75 4-door w/58K

..." Silly monkey Master, he continues to hold onto the fruit in the jar when the gardens outside are full with fruit - he should just let it go".. " I am pleased Grasshopper that you are wiser than the monkey "..." Oh I am much wiser Master" ..." I would hope you remain so, and know when it is time to let go of those things which no longer serve you but force you to serve them"

#9 Pete Phillips

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Posted 09 May 2012 - 02:34 AM

Depending on how long it has been sitting, it could have some stuck valves. I recently did this on a '54 Buick V8 that had been sitting since 1980. I removed the valve covers and the rocker arm shafts and tapped the top of each valve lightly with a hammer. You can tell from the sound and whether or not there is some movement, which ones are stuck and which ones are not stuck. I had 3 stuck valves, which would have been bent or damaged if I had tried to start the engine before loosening them. I was able to free up the valves with some PB Blaster sprayed on top of each valve stem daily for 3 or 4 days. Put the rocker arm shafts back in place, and the engine turned and started.
Pete Phillips, BCA #7338
Leonard, Tx

#10 buick man

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Posted 09 May 2012 - 02:48 AM

Very good points with the Blaster approach.

To get the gummy bear varnish out of things my latest and greatest is to remove said items, ie lifters, rocker shafts etc and instead of using lacquer thinner I now use Dot 3 Brake Fluid to clean and melt the vanish off, then rinse with Kerosene. BTW: Brake fluid by definition is not an oil. Fluids are not Oils. So brake fluid gets washed away by simply applying water. But since water provides hydrogens and oxygen for rust, use kerosene instead and get your parts spot on clean. Then reassemble. If they are going to set for any length of time, put some Marvel Mystery oil into a small spray bottle and mist spray your parts/assemblies after shelving or installing to keep things from rusting.

If you open the engine bay after the car has sat for eons, there will be a rust flush over the engine bay sheet metal. Take this same spray bottle with Marvel Mystery Oil and liberally spay every available surface area engine, metal shrouds, radiator brackets etc. Then go on a 2 week fishing vacation. When you come back the rust will be gone. Then you can keep it that way until you are ready to clean, prep and detail the engine bay. BTW: You can also use this Mystery Method on the frame, spring, cross members, axle - you name it. When it comes time to detail these areas the rust will be gone and you can just sand, detergent clean and then detail.

Blah, blah, blah, there I go again. I'm such a dear Abby. :rolleyes:
David - BCA # 45902 - 1957 Roadmaster 76A Coupe, 60K Survivor - RR & 731 and 1957 Roadmaster Model 75 4-door w/58K

..." Silly monkey Master, he continues to hold onto the fruit in the jar when the gardens outside are full with fruit - he should just let it go".. " I am pleased Grasshopper that you are wiser than the monkey "..." Oh I am much wiser Master" ..." I would hope you remain so, and know when it is time to let go of those things which no longer serve you but force you to serve them"

#11 NickySixx

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Posted 09 May 2012 - 04:57 AM

I'm going Sunday to pay and pick it up. I need to find some one to trailer it out for me considering my dad sold his after his first surgery. Thank you guys for all the tips, it is greatly appreciated. I'll add some pictures soon when I go finalize everything and fill paperwork out. It sounds like mine and my dads project will be a long and distracting one :good: I planned on soaking the motor for a week before anything. I'm going to pick up a rebuilt carb from my work before I head up as well. I can't forget to grab myself a shop manual too! Matt let me know how your new carpet works out. My manufacture will be shipping it out to you this week. Kinda got them to rush it for you as well! I plan on using mostly kanter parts! We'll see how it all works out! Please keep throwing tips at me and has I do everything I will keep stuff posted and put notes on everything I do! Keep the tips going!! I'm Gunna drop the oil pan and take off the top end to see what I'm working with!
Thanks
Nick

#12 jackofalltrades70

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Posted 10 May 2012 - 02:57 AM

Thanks Nick for the help on the carpet set! I hope that things go well with the build. Are you gonna be keeping the car in Carbondale? Maybe we'll meet up sometime and get to see each others rides. Would love to meet you and your father as well. Matt:D
Matt Whitaker
BCA#45694
AACA#996555
1947 Buick 56C (used for parts on the Roadmasters) but still have her carcass
1947 Buick 56C (waiting to go pick her up. Complete parts car)
1947 Buick 76C
1948 Buick 76C
1956 Buick Super 4 door
1977 Corvette

"Handle every stressful situation like a dog, If you cant eat it or play with it, just pee on it and walk away!":D

#13 Caballero2

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Posted 10 May 2012 - 03:23 AM

Been there, done that
Lots of good experience on this forum. Feel free to ask.
Up to this point, the suggestions to clean up and prep the engine first are good unless you want to start fresh with a complete rebuild. You are then safe and free of damage to the engine. It is a fun project to remove the engine and open it up. My wife and I quit smoking the day we disassembled the engine in our Estate Wagon in March, 1985. No smokes since.

Dan

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#14 NickySixx

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Posted 10 May 2012 - 04:41 AM

Thanks Dan! And the car is located at my dads house just outside of forest city. Definitely could meet up! Could always use a couple extra pointers too! Most of the stuff I do at Kanter is engine and suspension related. Trouble shooting, torque specs, installation and fitment issues so on and so forth so, this will help too!

#15 NickySixx

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Posted 10 May 2012 - 10:18 PM

As the days approach I'm thinking of what steps I'm going to take to turn that motor over. First things first is valve covers are coming off and fuel tank is getting dropped. I'm Gunna try a couple different methods to see what works good and what doesn't. Has I attempted it I will upload pictures and step by step of what I did and how it worked so people can use it has a reference. Thank you guys for the tips and I can guarantee most will be used. If you have anymore tips they all are greatly appreciated! Thanks!
Nick

#16 avgwarhawk

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Posted 10 May 2012 - 10:53 PM

Nick, really cool project to work together with your dad. Looking forward to rebuild pics. Looking forward to good reports on your dads progress.

Chris Gossweiler
1954 Buick Special 48D. It is a 264 and nothing more.
BCA#-46800
I adore my 54!
 


#17 JohnD1956

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Posted 11 May 2012 - 12:12 AM

What a great group of guys n gals on this forum.

Nickysixx, since you work with suspensions I assume you are aware that the 57 ball joints are a one year application, which are supposed to have some play in them from the factory. Please do not automatically assume they are bad for said play. I don't have a 57 ( any more) but those here who do have beaten that subject around and I'd say they are all virtual experts on the issue. So when you go through the suspension please be sure to check back with your measurements BEFORE ripping out what may be serviceable ball joints.

PS: and good luck to you and your Dad. Please let him know the fellows on this forum have him in their prayers for a recovery from that disease.
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#18 NickySixx

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Posted 11 May 2012 - 01:00 AM

Thanks guys, appreciate the support! I am aware of the ball-joints. They usually have Play. The only time there bad is if they have up and down movement. The ball joints we sell are 364 each upper and 425 per lower. I might be able to get a bit off though. I'm going to try and go all original and just have the original parts rebuilt. Can't wait to start the build!

#19 NickySixx

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Posted 12 May 2012 - 07:55 PM

Update: tomorrow going to pick up the Buick! My dad received good news from the doctors! My father is done with chemo treatment and gets to take a brand until he has to revisit the doctor on the 30th of may. So he gets a brake until my birthday! I will upload a few pictures of my dad with the Buick (if he feels upto it) tomorrow!
Happy motoring!
Nick

#20 smithbrother

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Posted 12 May 2012 - 09:13 PM

Two of my customers have cancer, LOTS of good things are being done to cure this, lots to do yet, but progress is being made.

I will keep him in my thoughts and prayers.

Looking forward to pictures, and progress reports, FOR SURE.

Dale Smith in Indy




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