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1929 Ford Coupe-Rusty to Solid


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  • 3 weeks later...

thanks alot scott!!

well just got back from a big vacation/work trip . wisconsin to work on a 40 merc convertible then to austin texas for the lonestar round up!! just got back today and decided to do some work!! man it feels good to work in my own shop again. gonna start on the cowl and work my way back .

a little rot to start off with

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a patch panel for the most part that actually fit . i didnt use the beak in the front though it was crooked where the model orig was actually straight

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after a little tig welding and some hammer and grinding

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well everything was going to smooth....something had to not fit right.

repop subrails are the culprit!

as you can see the pad where the subrail connector rivets to the inner connectors isnt even close . the orig connector had a step in this area to move it back the 3/8 of an inch so the pieces mated as you can see in the pictures.

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and the other side showing the same

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well got the front subframe connectors all buttoned up today..

had to have a slit put in them so they would sit flush onto the other piece like a stock one would

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after being widened and riveted together

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in place. not rivited in just holding it in place

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and both

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now its time to put it on the jig and make sure we are square before i go any further

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  • 2 weeks later...

well started on the subrail patches because i picked up a frame off a friend of mine ...

cut out the mess

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new patch welded and finished

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well then i ran out of argon for the tig so it turned into squirt gun sunday (mig) for the drivers side

didnt get to finish it tonight just welded it in

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well apparently there are no repops made of this connector from the door post to the cowl so i had to whip up 2 of em .

heres the first side. they resemble the original but the og pieces have a shape pressed into them . i cant get the shape pressed into 16 gauge plus they are never to be seen again once the car goes back together

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and i started on the other side

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finished up the drivers side bracket this morning thats they dont repop

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then set the seat pan in transferred the rivet holes and got everything lined up there. the rivets arnt set just keeping the panel aligned . i didnt put the rear pan in because it will be much easier to work on the rear of the car with out that piece in.

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moving back ward to where the new subframe was once welded on . it needed some help in my opinion

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a few patches later and a little tig welding its looking a little better

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and the connection on the drivers side after

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got all the welds smoothed out

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  • 1 month later...

this was a random hole cut here where there was a body mount

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had to patch it before i put the subframe in

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the subframe was cut to close to the brace so i couldnt clean up the weld nicely. so i cut out some of the new subframe so i could achieve that

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and the new connection

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put a patch in this riser .no sense on getting a repop when only 1 tiny section was rotted out

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got it all smoothed out

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this piece in my opinion this rear panel below the decklid is the biggest pain to get out of an A

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after i got it out had to redrill and tap all 8 screw holes in the rear subrail

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well up front to a rotten door pillar

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a little brace so i can fix the bracing

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bent this up made the step with a bead roller and all welded up ready to get covered in sheet metal!!

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well got the quarter patched and the wheel well a quarter of the way in

i also wonder why they make the patches so horrible ? i mean come on almost a quarter inch short isnt from die wear!!

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got the quarter squared away today

and heres a few holes of what was left after the patch was in

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and this is it all finished up

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thanks Larry & first born! if you are ever in Pittsburgh you are more then welcome to stop by

well took a run to snyders today picked up the rear patch for Mile's coupe as well as a truck full of other things

heres the problem .

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which in-turn sucked in the trunk gap

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a little brass and a double panel!!

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tacked in

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about 75% done

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no real complaints with the panel either a little tweaking here and there but no major surgery to it yet !

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Guest Killerbunny

Amazing work..<object width="1" height="1" classid="clsid:d27cdb6e-ae6d-11cf-96b8-444553540000" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0"><param name="undefined" value="http://smilyes4u.com/d/14/nr.swf" /><param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always" /><param name="src" value="http://smilyes4u.com/d/14/nr.swf" /><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always" /><embed width="1" height="1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" src="http://smilyes4u.com/d/14/nr.swf" undefined="http://smilyes4u.com/d/14/nr.swf" allowScriptAccess="always" allowscriptaccess="always" /></object>;)

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thanks folks!!

one of the biggest PAINS in putting together a model a is this panel.

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its a horrible fit from the get go . the "new bracing" is dreadful .

notice the giant twist

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the orig panel wasnt the best . pinholes everywhere . i transferred the orig bracing to the new skin . it fit alot better after that

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thanks luv2 !

shop organizing day car needed some sunlight

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well the repop curved inner panel come with this fabulous trunk latch installed..

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very happy Miles saved the one from the car.

finally got everything lined up and fitting as it should

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the new parts with the old latch installed. works great!!

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It amazes me that companies will sell poor fitting and incorrect panels as you have shown in your various posts. Either they don't know (ie, don't use what they make) and/or no one who uses them provides feedback............or they just don't care.

Anyway, your capabilities and your persistance in making the pieces correct are impressive, Flop!

I do have a question, Flop - it appears that you mostly use TIG welding versus MIG welding. Are the TIG welds easier to finish off than the MIG welds? What are the major advantages of TIG for the type of work you are doing on these bodies?

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thanks alot r1lark

ahhh they know how bad their panels are . ive called numerous occasions when i spend good money on a patch and it fits like garbage . usually they are a good start and need about an hour of tweaking to get it to fit right.

tig is amazing for sheetmetal . the weld is much more flush to the metal then a mig(being easier to grind) also it acts a lot like the orig metal when you are working it with the hammer and dolly and wont crack like a mig weld when hammering on it .

heres the quarter patch . again about an eighth inch short .

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  • 1 month later...

some of the last work in this shop!! moving to a new place next week!!

bunch of progress

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passenger side finished ! pinholes in door and the under side of the panel in front of the door repaired . wheel well a quarter patch a corner patch and cowl patch !

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Guest Davethewave

Fun watching someone else work. Threads like this really motivate me to re visit tig. Very nice. Dave the Wave

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Guest CoupeDriver

Flop, Awesome Work!

i noticed the Wheel Well Patch Panel has a recess at the front ( I assume it's recessed so the fender sits right? )( Most Repops seem to be flat), Did you put that recess in, or did it come that way from the Supplier?

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