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1932 DeSoto SC 4 Door


Touringcuda

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest stephen48

The pre-war Chrysler products are well engineered ,reliable,good to drive,go well and I have not heard of any issues with them.

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I have been trying to come up to speed on this car.

The transmission underwent some changes in 1932 correct?

Schronizers , bevel cut gears, freewheeling.

I am thinking this will be a good touring car, am I right?

Any issues with the engine? Drivetrain?

All of the above is fairly correct. A lot of Chrysler products went to the above changes. The engines and drivetrains are VERY reliable.

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We have one here in our club, been restored 6 or 7 years, goes everywhere without fault.

Agree with the well engineered comment (perhaps even over engineered), mechanical parts are shared with many other Chrycos of the era; quirky grille and other jewellery items make it a little unique.

Only issue our member has encountered was finding replacement ball & trunnion universal joints for the tailshaft, finished up doing a fairly simple tailsahft conversion to conventional uni joints.

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Went for a short drive yesterday afternoon. Purrs like a kitten.

Encountered a rough stretch of pavement in town (imagine that in Ohio) at roughly 25 MPH and expierenced some front end shimmy. Car is going to sellers antique car mechanic for evaluationof problem.

Also have an issue with headlights. I was standing in front of car when lights were turned on. One light came on then the other then both? I wasn't operating the switch so I can't say what position it was in. It is on the steering wheel. How many positions are on the switch?

What is the normal sequence for the light switch. OFF LOW HIGH ??

Looked for jack under front seat. No jack but found seat adjuster. Nice, as I can use the extra leg room.

Also discovered that the rear windows roll down.

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Went for a short drive yesterday afternoon. Purrs like a kitten.

Encountered a rough stretch of pavement in town (imagine that in Ohio) at roughly 25 MPH and expierenced some front end shimmy. Car is going to sellers antique car mechanic for evaluationof problem.

Also have an issue with headlights. I was standing in front of car when lights were turned on. One light came on then the other then both? I wasn't operating the switch so I can't say what position it was in. It is on the steering wheel. How many positions are on the switch?

What is the normal sequence for the light switch. OFF LOW HIGH ??

Looked for jack under front seat. No jack but found seat adjuster. Nice, as I can use the extra leg room.

Also discovered that the rear windows roll down.

Sounds like someone didn't know how to wire up the switch at the base of the steering column.

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How many positions are there on the headlight switch?

Approx. what should the miles per gallon be and should I consider any additives?

My 33 Plymouth two door sedan with a slightly smaller 6 cylinder engine gets between 14 and 18 MPG depending on how hard I push it. If I'm going to go any distance, like over 100 miles, on a freeway at 62 MPH (the max I feel the engine is good for on sustained driving) I expect 14 to 15 MPG. Back road tours at 30 to 50 MPH will be closer to 18 MPG.

I would guess your mileage would be similar. On the other hand the fellow I know with a '31 Plymouth PA gets worse mileage than I...

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  • 3 weeks later...

Drove the 32 DeSoto home Saturday. The weather in Ohio was perfect for the hour long ride. An issue had cropped up in an earlier test drive requiring the rebuild of a steering dampner. The car rode nice on a rural hilly winding state route through our foothills of the Appalachian Mountains. The car has an urge to be driven but our Ohio weather may put a hold on those plans. We filled the tank with premium and a bottle of dry gas as a precaution and headed out. Not having driven this vintage of an auto before I was supprised by its lack of enthusiasim for our hills and when reaching the end of the trip I realized a carb adjustment or cleaning may be what is needed to regain the lost zip. The symptoms are a elivated idle speed and what my wife (following behind) said was a rich smelling gas mixture and also a calculation upon refill of 8 MPG, that rivals a street-hemi in carbon footprint size.

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Sunday was a nice fall day in Ohio, 55 degrees. So I leaned the high speed mixture screw a quarter turn an away we went. We rolled up approx 50 miles and my manuvering is improving.

Temperature is good, reads 150 degrees.

Good oil pressure 40-50.

Alternator works good.

Must wait for a fill up to determine milage but I have the name of someone to look at carb and timing.

Have developed a water pump leak, fast drip. Any suggestions??

Bob:)

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That is great that the car runs so well for you. Sounds like a water pump nut repacking is in order. You can find a graphite rope packing material at a hardware store. It's been so long since I have done mine, I have no idea of the diameter of the stuff. I would first try tightening the nut a bit after the car warms up and it starts to leak there. Just be REAL careful.

Edited by keiser31 (see edit history)
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  • 2 months later...

Winter weather put the 32 on the back burner. Six weeks ago we had a nice weekend and I thought I would start the car and tinker with the waterpump leak. I tried and tried but no go. I was afraid of flooding it since I am a novice at the manual choke. Running the battery low I decided that something was not right. I did not smell gas so I started troubleshooting. I had my wife mash the starter while I checked for spark. Had spark. I took off the fuel line from the fuel punp. Mashed the starter again, no gas from fuel pump. Took it off and moved lever and spouted gasoline. Re assembled everything and she took off and ran once I played with the choke and and figured why there is a throttle.(fast idle) When it warmed up I greased the pump packing and tried to tighten the nut but to me it seems to be bottomed out. The leak is gone but I think a repacking is due.

Last night I tried to start the car but nothing doing. The first thing I did was check the fuel pump. There was some small spurts so I re assembled and it started.

Later last night I was doing something and out of the blue I thought about a friend of mine years ago that had some similar problems and his was caused by his Gas cap. Tonight I took the gas cap off, mashed the starter and it started right away. Should I have a vented cap? The car came with a plain baby moon type gas cap but in the box of extras is a nice DeSoto gas cap that maybe was reserved for shows. I need to examine it to see if it differs in design.

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Today I got out the box with the extra parts that came with the car. A NOS Desoto script gas cap was in there and it is vented. This may give the car a little more zip and better gas milage I hope.

I took off the sealed gas cap and she started, no problem.

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  • 2 months later...

Had the 32 tuned up. New points and condenser, valve lash, compression test and carb adjustment. Starts and runs better.

Now my focus is on new wide whites. It now has "Bedford Famous Coach" tires. They are 5.25/5.50 x 18. Any input on tire brands would be appreciated.

Summit carryies Coker in my size and the wide whitewalls and shiping is reasonable. I live an hour from there Akron Ohio store but they say they ship direct from Coker. They also have the tubes with the long nickel stems like I now have. They also have the rubber spoke protection band.

Any suggestions? Other Brands?

Thanks

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Ordered 5 Coker Firestone 8.50-18 tires for the car.

Decided to check out the packing on my water pump.

Backed off the nut and found some of what looks to be 3/32 packing. Does this just fit into the clearance between the shaft and water pump housing and go a few wraps around the shaft?

There is about 1/8 inch end play in the shaft. How much would be normal?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Searching for grease fittings under the car. I have front axel raised about 6 inches and on stands. Is the rear axel strong enough to jack at the pumpkin to allow me to put it on stands?

Boy a pit would be nice.

I found a lube point that I think is for the throwout bearing. It goes to the transmission. It is brass and has a screw cap that would force grease when it is turned.

There is a leather cover over the universal joints with shoe string type laceing. I assume I remove the lacing to access the fittings. O by the way all fittings are kind of pointed (alemite?). I am removing them and greasing with zerk style and then putting them back.

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Searching for grease fittings under the car. I have front axel raised about 6 inches and on stands. Is the rear axel strong enough to jack at the pumpkin to allow me to put it on stands?

Boy a pit would be nice.

I found a lube point that I think is for the throwout bearing. It goes to the transmission. It is brass and has a screw cap that would force grease when it is turned.

There is a leather cover over the universal joints with shoe string type laceing. I assume I remove the lacing to access the fittings. O by the way all fittings are kind of pointed (alemite?). I am removing them and greasing with zerk style and then putting them back.

Yes to all of your questions.

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I opened one of the lacings but it only acts as a protective cover, nothing inside but old grease. Either end of the driveshaft has some sort of telescoping trunion. I gave them a good shot of grease.

If I should ever have to access the battery that is under the drivers seat how does it come out? From the top or bottom??

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I opened one of the lacings but it only acts as a protective cover, nothing inside but old grease. Either end of the driveshaft has some sort of telescoping trunion. I gave them a good shot of grease.

If I should ever have to access the battery that is under the drivers seat how does it come out? From the top or bottom??

You'll want to be sure you've laced up the leather boots well enough to keep out dirt, water and road splatter. The universal joints are essentially primitive CV joints and will wear out very rapidly if dirt gets in them. Don't bother asking how I know. :(

Properly lubricated and sealed against dirt they are pretty reliable. If I recall correctly they were used on various Chrysler built products until about 1962 or so. Also used, I think, on various year Jeeps.

They are spring loaded at each end which keeps the driveshaft roughly centered and means it doesn't need a sliding splined section to adjust for length as the axle moves up and down.

Regarding the battery, at least on my '33 Plymouth, you access and remove it from the top after moving the seat, carpet and cover out of the way.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Participated in AACA Sentimental Tour in Virginia this past week 500 miles of back roads thru the foot hills of the Blue Ridge.

Took antifreeze along and brought it all back. No drips.

Car ran well and one day was in intermittent rain. I guess they were made to get wet.

Only minor issue was a near dead battery at Thursday's coffee stop. Was running earlier that morning in light fog with lights on. Voltage meter on dash does not register a charge when running. Is there any adjustment that I can do to correct this? Originally the meter would move to the right of center after starting and return to center after a few minutes, similar to an alternator. After the low battery event it would charce good just off idle but stop charging as the revs increased? I assume it is something to do with the voltage regulater.

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  • 4 weeks later...

We took the 32 out for a drive in high 90's heat and all was well until me and my navigator decided to find some ice cream. We stopped the car went inside to the AC annd came out 15 minutes later and restarted OK and stopped to wait for traffic and it stalled. It would not restart and seemed as if the fuel pump had lost its prime. We were hauled home and I disconnected the fuel line from the pump intake and rigged a line about 2 feet long that I could pour gas into. Started right up. Any suggestions?

Might the fuel pump need rebuilt? Do many of you use an inline electric fuel pump? Mix a little diesel with the gasoline?

Also when we were in Virginia a vibration occured off and on and I asked an older gentleman to go for a ride with me and give his opinion. He has been around old Chrysler products since he was very young and he knew the man that restored my car and knew of the car back when and said the man who restored the car at the time had two 31 chryslers also. He said it was the ball and trunion and an individual in Georga makes a modern replacement for the original using universal joints. He also said it is safe to drive as is as that was my main concern. Up to that point I thought it was a vibration from the air cleaner. Has anyone had any issues with their ball and trunion? Are parts available? Are Dodges similar??

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We took the 32 out for a drive in high 90's heat and all was well until me and my navigator decided to find some ice cream. We stopped the car went inside to the AC annd came out 15 minutes later and restarted OK and stopped to wait for traffic and it stalled. It would not restart and seemed as if the fuel pump had lost its prime. We were hauled home and I disconnected the fuel line from the pump intake and rigged a line about 2 feet long that I could pour gas into. Started right up. Any suggestions?

Might the fuel pump need rebuilt? Do many of you use an inline electric fuel pump? Mix a little diesel with the gasoline?

On really hot days, 95+, after driving at high speeds (60+) for long periods of time (1hr), my '33 exhibits the same issue when using modern gas.

An electric pump located near the tank should cure it. But I've just been able to pour some drinking water on the mechanical pump to get it cool enough to work and then once the car is moving the air flow is enough to keep things cool enough to work.

Also when we were in Virginia a vibration occured off and on and I asked an older gentleman to go for a ride with me and give his opinion. He has been around old Chrysler products since he was very young and he knew the man that restored my car and knew of the car back when and said the man who restored the car at the time had two 31 chryslers also. He said it was the ball and trunion and an individual in Georga makes a modern replacement for the original using universal joints. He also said it is safe to drive as is as that was my main concern. Up to that point I thought it was a vibration from the air cleaner. Has anyone had any issues with their ball and trunion? Are parts available? Are Dodges similar??

Any good driveline shop should be able to make you up a replacement. I did that years ago when I had problems finding new housing for my ball and trunnion joints. But that drive shaft got out of balance over the years and I finally refurbished the original and have that back on the car. Main take away is either will work when in good mechanical repair. The ball and trunnion is really a primitive CV joint and as long as the boots are kept in good order will last a long time. The problem is that the parts are expensive and it can cost less to manufacture a modern replacement than to get the parts to fix the old. I think the usual places like Bernbaums, Roberts and/or Mitchell should have the parts. The pin has to be properly centered when pressed in or you will have a vibration...

By the way, Chrysler used that ball and trunnion design on some vehicles into the 1960s so the design is fine, just the cost of repair and the lack of knowledgable shops to do the work.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I finally decided to go with an electric low pressure fuel pump that flows thru when turned off. I was told to mount it as close as possible to the gas tank. The fuel line exits the tank half the way up the front side of the tank. What elevation should the electric pump be in relation to the connection to the tank? It looks like a good place to mount it is on the inside of the passenger side frame rail just forward of the tank with enough clearance to make a couple of tube bends. Is aluminum 5/16 tubing OK to use as opposed to stainless? Will this disapate heat better? My plan is to only use the electric pump on startup to prime the mechanical pump.

What made me go ahead with the change was upon close inspection of the fuel line and its close routing to the tailpipe over the rear axel I foune a worn spot where the strap connector to the shock from the spring rubs the fuel line on occasion. It wore thru the fabric protector and has worn into the fuel line. Since I need to replace this part of the fuel line I may as well reroute it away from the pinch point and possibly a little further from the tail pipe.

I got a rocker switch that is designed to light when on so now I need to mount it under the dash. Any suggestions? I thought of maybe using the bracket from the bottom center of the dash to the firewall as a possible mounting point that will be out of sight.

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Up on jackstands and under the car. Did some deliberation and descided to mount the electric pump on the pasenger side frame rail just forward of the leaf spring. Mounting further back would be more of a challenge and higher in elevation. The spot I picked is two inches lower than the exit fitting from the gas tank. The pump will be 48 inches forward of the tank. I will try this location to see if it works and if not will move it further to the rear. Never having dealt with a pump of this nature I dont know what I can expect it to do. The vague instructions says to mount as close to the tank as possible.

As I sized up the chore at hand I questioned the size of the fuel line I am to opperate on. Upon inspection with a set of O.D. mics. I found my hunch to be correct it is 1/4 inch tubing that I suppose to be the original stuff. So now I need to gather a few extra fittings to jump up to 5/16 tube as this is what I bought. I think I will run 5/16 hose from the tank to the pump for now and then cut and hook into the original 1/4 line the rest of the way forward. If the pump "likes" this setup then I will bend and install the 5/16 all the way.

The location of the pump allows me to route the electrical connection on top of the frame X brace to the battery location out of sight and harms way.

Probably an inline fuel filter might not hurt also.

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Up on jackstands and under the car. Did some deliberation and descided to mount the electric pump on the pasenger side frame rail just forward of the leaf spring. Mounting further back would be more of a challenge and higher in elevation. The spot I picked is two inches lower than the exit fitting from the gas tank. The pump will be 48 inches forward of the tank. I will try this location to see if it works and if not will move it further to the rear. Never having dealt with a pump of this nature I dont know what I can expect it to do. The vague instructions says to mount as close to the tank as possible.

As I sized up the chore at hand I questioned the size of the fuel line I am to opperate on. Upon inspection with a set of O.D. mics. I found my hunch to be correct it is 1/4 inch tubing that I suppose to be the original stuff. So now I need to gather a few extra fittings to jump up to 5/16 tube as this is what I bought. I think I will run 5/16 hose from the tank to the pump for now and then cut and hook into the original 1/4 line the rest of the way forward. If the pump "likes" this setup then I will bend and install the 5/16 all the way.

The location of the pump allows me to route the electrical connection on top of the frame X brace to the battery location out of sight and harms way.

Probably an inline fuel filter might not hurt also.

I mounted my electric pump on my '31 Dodge just in front of the gas tank on the passenger side with a filter in between the pump and the tank. I have another filter up front which then flows into a regulator and then into the carburetor.

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