Reconstruction of a '34 Chevy Master Coupe

[Landman]

Today, painted some of the items I had primed the last time. Cleaned and primed a few more.

Disassembled a distributor and cleaned all the parts. There was some up and down movement of the shaft but no noticeable side to side movement. What does one look for when rebuilding a distributor? :confused:

[Landman]

More of the same today. Reassembled the vacuum advance portion of the distributor. Dashpot will need a rebuild.

Opened up & cleaned both oil pumps. One is definitely better. Will use that one.

Opened up the other fuel pump. This one is full of crud. Will see how it will clean up. Will select one to rebuild.

[West Peterson]

Do you know if you need the starter dashpot, yet?

We have an NOS piece. It's part of a NOS 1937 Chevrolet NOS factory long-block engine, including crank, pistons and cylinder head. If you need, I'll check with my stepfather and find out if he'd separate. Or, if you're interested in the whole package, he's been wanting $1,000 for everything. Might be less expensive than a complete rebuild??? It's in the Atlanta area.

Edited April 11, 2011 by West Peterson (see edit history)

[Landman]

Do you know if you need the starter dashpot, yet?

We have an NOS piece. It's part of a NOS 1937 Chevrolet NOS factory long-block engine, including crank, pistons and cylinder head. If you need, I'll check with my stepfather and find out if he'd separate. Or, if you're interested in the whole package, he's been wanting $1,000 for everything. Might be less expensive than a complete rebuild??? It's in the Atlanta area.

Thanks West,

Yes I will need one. However the one you show there is for a distributor and has different tension in it. There was a discussion on the VCCA Chat about the difference and apparently the spring of one could be used in the other. If he'll separate I'd likely be interested, depending on the price of course.

[West Peterson]

Sorry. But the whole package just sold yesterday.

[Guest 36chev]

Cleaned more engine parts today and primed them.

Had a mishap with the water pump.

Tested the starterator dashpot with a vacuum pump & it doesn't hold.

And yes, 36 Chevy, I might be interested if you can find it.

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Sorry I'm just now getting back to this thread--I've haven't checked it in ahwile. I'll be back where the parts are over Easter weekend, will look for the starterator vacuum then, and let you know.

Edited April 15, 2011 by 36chev (see edit history)

[Landman]

Today decided to attack the starter as I had brushes & bushing coming. They were delivered while I was working on it. How about that for timing? Took it apart. Disassembled the end plate, cleaned it up and reassembled it with new brushes. Cleaned up housings & primed.

Also recieved my running board mats. Laid one down to see what it'll look like. They are from I & I reproductions in California. I was on a waiting list for several years. Worth the wait.

Edited April 20, 2011 by Landman (see edit history)

[Landman]

Cleaned up, primed and painted more engine parts. Cleaned up the commutator on the starter armature and did a few continuity tests. All appears OK.

[Guest 1hooligan]

If you still need parts, check under the chevy catigory

[Landman]

Thanks Pat, I will.

Pat

[Landman]

Prepared the main bearings to send out to get rebabbitted.

Received the engine side pans I bought on eBay. I had to buy a pair to get the one I was missing. They are good but do not have the clips and brackets. So I made some approximations. Made the clips out of an angle bracket and the front bracket out of a chunk of skin from an old amplifier or VCR.

Cleaned the pan I'll be using. It is quite good but needs a crack welded.

[Willys77]

Looking forward to more "progress" reports, Pat! Hope it was a constructive day for you and the Chevy! Will be watching out for trunk hardware for you. Mahalo for the reports! WT

[Guest jelp]

Here they are building your front suspension LiveLeak.com - Cranckshaft Forging - the Old Way

[West Peterson]

Great video. Thanks!

[Landman]

Good video indded! What a rotten job it must have been forging crankshafts. Hot, heavy.

It would be nice to have that tool to screw in the tops of the knee-actions.

Those guys worked hard. They must have headed straight for the fridge and then the couch when they got home. What's worse, they did this work until they were 65.

[Guest 36chev]

Sorry that I keep forgetting to look for the starterator vacuum. I was at my parents this last weekend but it was hectic and neglected to look. I'll be up there again in a couple of weeks and will tie a string on my finger, or do something, to remember!

[Willys77]

Checked out the swap meet this past weekend and came up empty handed on the Trunk Hardware for you! Still looking, will try to post an ad in the local antique car paper for you.

[Landman]

Thanks guys. Appreciate the help.

Nothing fancy going on here.

May 1- Cleaned up fan, pushrod cover, flywheel, clutch disc. Flywheel needs a new ring gear or al least this one turned around. Removed facings from clutch to get new ones installed.

May 7-Installed engine side pan on driver's side with my home made clips.

May 10- I had a wobbly wheel, one rear spare mount which I won't use since it'll have sidemounts. Turned them into a clock holder. Disassembled head. Looks like it'll need at least exhaust valves.

[Landman]

Received the rebabbitted main bearing shells.

Took the other head apart.

Selected useable/repairable valves, straight pushrods and enough goodies to repair one head.

Took two blocks, two heads, two cams to the engine rebuilder for cleanup and evaluation.

Started on oil pan.

[Landman]

Took rocker arm assemblies apart. Selected the best arms & ball studs. Cleaned eveything up & reassembled with new shafts & bushings. I have found out that the studs are available new, so I'll get a set.

[Landman]

Engine block & head cleaned & MPI'd. No cracks. NOS crankshaft & .040 aluminum pistons on the way.

Did the generator with new bushing & brushes. Continuity tests appear OK. No way to bench test. The proof wil be in the pudding later. Didn't use the new bearing as the old one was good. Fixed a few wires. Should be OK.

[Landman]

Cliked on the wrong button. Forgot the pictures.

[Ben Bruce aka First Born]

Looking good. I always look forward to your updates. Dads 1st car upon returning home from WW2 was a '34 sedan.

Ben

[alsfarms]

Any good news/progress to report?

Al

[Landman]

Not really Al. I soon realized that my little part time job won't catch the parts & the machine work simultaneously on the engine rebuild. So we put the machine work on hold while I finish gathering the parts. I have a NOS crankshaft, rebabbitted main bearings, finished rocker arm assembly. Mising the NOS rods and the gasket set. He agreed to progress in stages so that I can keep up with the payments. I put the Mustang up for sale. If it sells, then I should be able to complete the car over the winter.

The last thing I did was to salvage the firewall insulator. The jute type insulation was shot but the board was so-so but curly. I wetted it down and pressed it flat, reinforced the weak areas with roofing tar paper. I eventually glued a 1/8" hardboard to really stiffen it. I ordered some felt to replace the jute.

[alsfarms]

Hello, I know your pain and patience when it comes to money and time. That was a very crafty salvage job on the on the fire wall insulator. The little things will ad up to completion of your Chevy.

Alan

[Guest longman]

What a wonderfully detailed thread over the years! I'm sure we've all been able to smile and knod our heads knowingly at certain points along your journey. I can't wait to see the final product.

Just going back a few posts, how did you get your flywheel so shiny? what type of wire brush are you using?

[Landman]

Thanks for the kind words.

For the flywheel I used a knotted wire cup brush mounted on a grinder. I'll post a picture when I find my camera.

[Landman]

Not much to report. Finished the firewall insulator by gluing and trimming the felt to the back of it. The original was more like hemp or jute. I almost used a piece of carpet underlay but then I thought I didn't want a rubber based product. The local upholsterer found me some nice gray felt.

Went to the engine rebuilder's. The block has been bored to .040 to fit my new aluminum pistons. Turns out my NOS rods don't have the bolt that tightens the small end on the wristpins. Told him I'd take some off the old ones. We discussed what he would do and what I would do. Looks like he'll fit the reciprocating asembly, install the cam bearing , the valve guides and grind the valves. I'll do the rest myself.

Next is to order a water pump kit and possibly a new oil pump.

Mine is the vane type. They make a more efficient gear type which fits. The tough part is that it costs over $300 to do the conversion.

My granddaughter took it for a spin. She can't wait either.

Edited August 3, 2011 by Landman
Forgot part of it. (see edit history)

[Landman]

Dismantled , cleaned up and primed another water pump (See posting #148).

Cleaned up & primed the bell housing.

Removed the front fenders. There are two reinforcement bars that fit inside the frame to stenghten the sidemount tower base. These are difficult to hold with one arm in the frame while holding the tower on the outside with the other arm and inserting the bolts with a third arm. So I glued them inside the frame. It looks like the sidemount towrers have to be installed after the fenders because slipping a painted fender over them and along the body will be next to impossible.

I took alsfarms' suggestion above and will attend to litle things while the engine gets done.

[Guest 36chev]

Not really Al. I soon realized that my little part time job won't catch the parts & the machine work simultaneously on the engine rebuild. So we put the machine work on hold while I finish gathering the parts. I have a NOS crankshaft, rebabbitted main bearings, finished rocker arm assembly. Mising the NOS rods and the gasket set. He agreed to progress in stages so that I can keep up with the payments. I put the Mustang up for sale. If it sells, then I should be able to complete the car over the winter.

Landman,

Many moons ago I said would look for the NOS starterator vacuum. Sorry I didn't respond but I haven't found it don't believe have it anymore.

But I do have a few NOS GM and a set of NORS 34-36 connecting rods if you're interested. They are standard size (not oversize). Actually know where these are! I think have enough for a set of 6 plus a few more. But I would like to hang to at least a few in case any on my car ever let go.

Just let me know if interested. I should be stopping by the building where they're stored this coming weekend.

Edited August 4, 2011 by 36chev (see edit history)

[Guest 36chev]

Went to the engine rebuilder's. The block has been bored to .040 to fit my new aluminum pistons. Turns out my NOS rods don't have the bolt that tightens the small end on the wristpins. Told him I'd take some off the old ones. We discussed what he would do and what I would do. Looks like he'll fit the reciprocating asembly, install the cam bearing , the valve guides and grind the valves. I'll do the rest myself.

I apologize for the goof--should read all posts before responding! I see you already have the rods--but if you do want some extras just let me know.

[Landman]

Thanks for the offer, 36. Thanks for looking for the starterator dashpot as well. I have found a plave which rebuilds them.

[Landman]

36,

I have sent you a PM.

Pat

[Landman]

Went to the engine man's today. Like I had said earlier it was bored out to .040 over. New rebabitted main bearings are fitted, line bored and the crank installed. We returned the NORS rods and ordered proper NOS GM rods. Valves are ground and head refaced. Once the rods are fitted, I'll be able to take it home and cary on.

[Landman]

Installed the reproduction runing board mats on the original backing plates. Used all the clamps in the shop. Mounted one loosely on a running board to see. It should take its shape once everting gets pulles down and the clips are secured.

[Landman]

Like alsfarms said above, it is the little things that make up the whole.

Yesterday I attacked the air cleaner.

After discussions with the body shop it was decided that we would do the body on the frame, torqued down in place. However we'd do the firewall first with the body off the car so it is easier to install the engine. Then we'll mask the front and go at the rest. So I started pecking at the firewall. Filled a few divots and cleaned up my welds on the support plates.

Also played with a running board trying to straighten the bead. That is somewhat of a challenge.

[Landman]

Took that same running board and practised pick & filing, and applied a skim of body filler. It looks blotchy but is as smooth as a baby's bum. I'll take it to the body man and ask him if that's saving him time or whether I'm losing mine. :confused:

[Ian_Greenlaw]

Hi Landman,

I'm restoring a 1934 Dodge which also has a timber roof. Could you supply a few more photos of the timber frame. Mine really dosn't exist and I'd like to compare the position of yours against the profile where mine sits.

Keep up the posts, I enjoy reading all your info.

Ian

[Landman]

Hi Ian,

Here are a bunch more photographs of the Chevrolet installation on three different cars. I'm not sure how similar they are to a Dodge installation but at least they'll give you an idea.