1913 Metz 22

[MochetVelo]

I'm now refinishing and refurbishing the rear axle. I'm doing one side at a time to be sure I reassemble it correctly. I decided to re-line the brakes myself rather than sending them out. I thought this would save money, but let's just say it's more of a learning experience! The lining is woven cloth (3/16" X 1") with brass filaments; I assume with asbestos. I opted to use a non-asbestos lining, though you can still get N.O.S. asbestos on eBay and flea markets. For some reason, the new woven stuff is not so easily acquired. Mcmaster-Carr has it on their web site, but my order for the 1" "semimetallic woven" brake lining went unfilled: "out of stock". The 1-1/4" was also out-of-stock. Mcmaster-Carr has a great web site, but they don't tell you a item is out-of-stock when you place a web order. I finally phoned and, after being put on hold a few times, the guy found 4 feet of 2" X 3/16" lining, which I can cut in half to use. Why the low stock? He couldn't tell me. I did find another firm (Reddaway Mfg. in NJ) that sells a similar lining, but it costs almost 3 times the price with a minimum 25-foot order. Next, I must fit the strip, drill, countersink and rivet. I'll post some photos.

Phil

[MochetVelo]

I've installed the #1 brake lining. The 2" X 3/16" woven lining I purchased cut nicely in half on my wood-cutting band saw despite the brass wires throughout. (I've also used the saw on aluminum extrusions with no problems.) I then clamped the lining to the one-piece shoe and drilled outward through the holes with a Harbor Freight right-angle drill attachment. The holes were countersunk using the bit that came with my cheap-o rivet tool. I tried to do this on the drill press, but it was a lot simpler to do it "in place." I only guessed how deep to countersink the rivet holes, but went about 2/3 through the lining. I then used the rivet tool to set the brass rivets. Being a circular shoe, the access was tricky, but it worked OK. Hopefully, it will stop the car!

Phil

Edited April 3, 2011 by MochetVelo (see edit history)

[MochetVelo]

I did the second brake lining today. Here are a couple pictures of how I did it. The little riveter worked well, as it fit inside the circular brake shoe.

Phil

Drilling through brake shoe with right-angle attachment.

Brake Rivet tool in action.

[MochetVelo]

I've been priming and painting parts lately, and have pretty much decided to replace the rear wheels of the Metz. The hubs pulled out easily, and the spoke ends were sprayed with grease, indications of loose spokes. Also, one wheel wobbled badly. Plus, I noticed only yesterday that one of the rear wheels is different. The spokes are round rather than oval in cross-section like the others. Plus, the original spokes seem to have a slight taper which looks nice. I don't know if you can tell from the photo. The odd wheel is on the right. You might also see that the odd wheel has extra holes drilled for the Metz rear hub, no doubt because it came from another type of car. I'd probably never had noticed if I didn't see them side-by-side.

Phil

Edited May 2, 2011 by MochetVelo (see edit history)

[MochetVelo]

I bit the bullet and ordered new rear wheels for the Metz. I removed the tires and sent the hub parts along with the original wheel to the Stuzman Wheel Shop in Baltic, Ohio. They're an Amish family business who, I've heard, do good work. Getting the wheels back may be pricey, however, as the hubs are over a foot long. It will take a large box!

Phil

Edited May 6, 2011 by MochetVelo (see edit history)

[MochetVelo]

The plot thickens... I dropped off my Metz fenders and hood for paint removal at Kwik Strip in Allentown, PA last December. They often take a long time to get to things and it was winter anyway, so I let them sit. However, four then five months later when my calls and a letter were never acknowledged, I got nervous. A call tonight to a restorer I know who used Kwik Strip brought me frightening news: the business was shuttered! Could my parts be lost? Fortunately, I got another number for the former owner of the business, and I finally got though to him. He said his landlord locked him out because of issues over insurance coverage. With a lawyer's help, he says, he was able to re-enter the building and pull out customer parts, bringing them to his home. Unfortunately, the phone numbers of the parts' owners were not rescued, I was told. My fenders may not be gone, but I'll find out for sure this weekend when I drive up to retrieve them. Stay tuned...

Phil

[keiser31]

The BEST of luck to you.

[MochetVelo]

Well, my luck held out. I was told my parts would be sitting in a cart in the guy's front yard. Sure enough, there they were when I arrived this afternoon. They'd been pretty much stripped of paint, too, but somewhat rusty since they'd been sitting outside for a month or more. Anyway, I'm happy to get them back. It would have cost a lot to reproduce the four fenders and hood pieces.

Phil

[DavidAU]

Glad to hear everything came out OK. Nothing worse than getting caught up in a problem that had nothing to do with you.

[MochetVelo]

I took off the fender rust using the 3M green bristle disc on my electric buffer. Here you see the front fenders after treatment. This got the rust off except for the crevices I couldn't reach.

I then treated the metal with POR-15 Prep & Ready, a zinc phosphate product. There are a number of similar preparations like Ospho, Eastwood Rust Converter, etc. I cleaned off the metal with naptha first, then sprayed on the rust treatment. After about 45 minutes, I washed it off with water, then more naptha. Next, I'll try bumping out the hundreds of rock dents.

Phil

[MochetVelo]

I've been experimenting with the etching process used by amateur circuit board makers to reproduce the two brass tags for my Metz 22. Metz used no plaques or I.D. on the car except the name cast in the cylinder head and a 2-1/2" round tag screwed to the seat front. This tag is missing on my car. To make a long tale short, I got a high-contrast master made of the tag using a graphic artist I found on eBay. My friend Craig Smith then improved it so it looked pretty good. I then had it reversed at the local copy shop, scanned it and printed the result using my laser printer on a Press-n-Peel transfer sheet (photo shows the transfer sheet after the design was transferred to the brass). I then transferred this to a piece of brass using Lucille's iron (which she didn't approve of). It took several trials, but the design finally stuck to the brass. Adjusting the heat setting, and a lot of pressure finally did the trick. I then soaked the tag in ferric-chloride solution I got at Radio Shack for about an hour. I rounded the tag with metal shears, belt sander and a file. Finally, I sprayed the whole thing with black paint and sanded off the raised portions with 2000-grit wet/dry paper. I next plan to coat it with a clear finish. On the next tags, I plan to try darkening the brass chemically and buffing the raised parts, a method I often see on old machinery tags. Also, I will try making the clutch warning tag, which was placed by the clutch pedal.

My plan is to make some extra tags in case others would like them.

Phil

The tags after their etching bath.

The Press-n-Peel material after transferring the design to the brass.

The (almost) finished tag; 2.5" diameter.

[Friartuck]

Phil, Try preheating the brass tag in an oven at 250-300 for about 10-15 minutes. It makes the press-n-peel transfer better. Also the Industrial version (not the regualr one) of a Sharpie pen or simple black enamel paint will touch up the imperfections before the etching step.

http://www.metroccca.org/tech_articles/tech_07_fall.pdf

Chris

[MochetVelo]

The Metz "22" windscreen was a steel frame covered in leatherette and clear celluloid. My car came with a klunky approximation which I recycled, so I'm happy now to learn my new windscreen will soon arrive. Jason at Metalmenderz copied his original for me. See photo below for his copy next to the original. Looks like the original's covering needs some restoration, also. The original was painted black, I'm told. I now must paint it and figure how to "upholster" the thing.

Phil

[MochetVelo]

No, I haven't given up yet! The past several weeks I've spent painting the Metz body parts. I originally planned to use PPG Urethane, but switched to DuPont Centari acylic enamel. My painting booth is the great outdoors, a patch behind a friend's suburban shop. It actually works rather well, despite the occasional bug (actually, only two landed on my paint job). I like the enamel better than lacquer, which I've used in the past. Anyway, three coats was not enough on some pieces, so a couple more applications will be needed. I think the result will be acceptable, if not concours quality. The trickiest part of spray painting for me is quantity: too much produces runs and sag, too little begets the dreaded orange peel. I seem to favor the latter.

My Paint Method:

1) Gray epoxy primer

2) Body filler, where needed

3) High-Build lacquer primer sanded with 400-grit paper

4) Acrylic Enamel (dark blue) with hardener (fresh air breathing hood used)

5) Lots of wet sanding (mostly 1000, 1200, 1500). Spray again if I sand through to primer!

6) 3M Perfect-It buffing liquids (using wool, then foam pads on buffer). These come in three grades.

Phil

[Luv2Wrench]

Can't wait to see some pics!

Can't wait for you to paint mine.

[KenHupp20]

Give it plenty of time to tack up between coats.

When you 're all suited up and ready to" get it done" it's so easy to want to rush back into it.I would step out of the shop,have a drink of water,rest then go back in .

You can achieve a real nice wet look with Centari.

[MochetVelo]

I agree that the Centari will give a nice finish. I did my top irons in black, and they look good without buffing. I had more unevenness in the larger pieces due to all the different angles, etc. Of course, a nice downdraft spray booth with banks of lights would probably improve my technique!

Phil

[Bob Zetnick]

I just stumbled on your Metz restoration...beautiful work and great progress...I came across this 1912 model for sale on ebay...it has close-ups of the windshield and chain cover for that year...don't know if it might help you.

Other Makes | eBay

[MochetVelo]

I just saw this listing yesterday. It looks like a fairly untouched car, though I'm not sure if the top cloth is original or not. It seems to have the side curtains, so I asked the seller (or his agent?) if he could photograph them. He replied that he would if they weren't too delicate. I know of no others in existence, so I hope I can get a pattern.

By the way, the eBay bidding will cheer up Metz owners!

Phil

[Luv2Wrench]

Indeed, indeed. Following the auction with great interest. I wonder if we could get high resolution pictures as well.

[MochetVelo]

Perhaps the new owner would be agreeable to share photos. I'll try to get his contact info from the seller. Final sale price was $20,300.

Phil

[Luv2Wrench]

Certainly some good news on that sale. Really hoping the lucky new owner can share some info!

[Guest Mochet]

Yes, I'm still going...

Last week, I received my new rear wheels from Stutzman Wheel which were installed over the original hubs which, in turn, I had stripped and primed. I also got new rims. Since Metz uses Model T-size wheels, the rims are still being made by McClaren.

The new wood needed no sanding. Here is a photo of the wheels after I applied two seal coats of thin epoxy. Next, I'll prime and paint.

I decided to use the front wheels that came with the car. Here I am stripping the old finish. The "original" paint is long gone. I've ordered new Model T hub bolts for the wheels as well.

Phil

[Guest Mochet]

I'd hoped to get more info from the eBay Metz seller (see 2nd previous post). The guy said he traced the side curtains, then wrote asking to be paid for his time, postage, etc. I replied asking how much I should send, but heard nothing since.

Phil

[Guest Mochet]

Just returned from Hershey 2011 where I met a former Metz owner. His comments on the Metz were helpful. Of course, I asked his impressions of the car, and he replied that he found it peppy with plenty of power and ease of control. He stated that he got about 4,000 miles from a paper friction disc, about a thousand more than Metz estimated. His one caution was in the friction wheel linkage. This has no lubrication points or bushings, and it is under some strain when in operation. The result is a loose friction wheel that gets forced to the outer parts of the aluminum driver disc, thus making it difficult to stay in low gear. His advice was to be sure the linkage was tight and not at all sloppy.

Phil

[Luv2Wrench]

Thanks for the info Phil.

[Guest Mochet]

I finish coated the Metz wheels today using Dupont "Nason" urethane. I like the paint. It goes down as well or better than the Centari I used on the body. Also, it has very low odor, so might be a good paint to use where smells might bother people. Anyway, I chose the BMW Mini color "Pepper White" (#850) which, for some reason, the paint shop calls "Pepper Old English White." The tint looks like a nice medium cream color to me, and I'm pleased with it. I used my wheel turning machine to spray. This reduced runs. I used some PVC pipe to fit inside the hub. A few small wood wedges kept the wheel tight enough to turn with the belt-drive set-up. Only one bug landed on the wet paint!

I'll post some photos.

Phil

[Guest Mochet]

The chassis is starting to come together. It's been some time, so I must re-acquaint myself with where everything went. All those holes in the chassis rails are rather daunting. You can see the new dark blue color and the new paper friction wheel. The engine hangs from the two black cross members.

Phil

[Luv2Wrench]

I like the blue, very nice.

I sent you an email with some notes on all those holes.. not that you need it but possibly a good cross reference.

[Guest Mochet]

Still moving along. The chassis is mostly together, and I plan to check it for alignment shortly. I find myself comparing the Metz to the Ford T, but their chassis are quite different. The Ford chassis is solidly riveted, and the Metz is completely bolted together. I've come to admire the design and workmanship of the Metz. However, since this is a restoration of a restoration, I must constantly check to be sure nothing is missing or amiss. For example, the last restorer left out the exhaust cut-out pedal and linkage, so I'm trying to recreate this. It's odd muffler to me. The exhaust emerges from several small (1/2") holes on the ends of the muffler... which is located right under the seat. There is no tail pipe. The "cutout" opens an iron cover on the rear of the muffler (where I would have expected the tail pipe to go) to bypass the baffles inside.

Phil

[Guest Mochet]

MOUNTING TIRES

Last week, I striped the wheels using a Beugler tool with One-Shot sign paint. I used a striping brush on the felloes, but found the Beugler tool much easier.

Today, I mounted the 30 X 3 1/2" tires I got from Universal. The first one was a real pain, but I then used soapy water on the beads and they went on pretty easy (with the help of a friend stomping the edges and holding tire irons). I followed Universal's suggestion and used flaps around the tubes. There is some controversy as to whether they are really necessary, but I find they at least protect the tubes from your tire iron (nothing worse than finding you've punctured the tube after everything is complete). I don't think the flaps made mounting the tires any more difficult, and they may help to avoid premature tube wear. I avoided obvious paint damage by mounting the tires from the rear of the wheel. The chips can be touched up without being obvious!

More on flaps: they come with a gooey jell on them. I was told to keep that on, as it helps them to slip into place. If your flaps get folded under the tube, it can cause a blow-out.

Here is my tire-mounting method:

1) Shake inner tube in a bag containing baby powder to lubricate it.

2) Insert tube in tire as evenly as possible.

3) Inflate tube just enough to give it shape. This keeps it from folding and pinching itself.

4) Insert flap around inner part of the tube. The slimy coating helps it slip into position. The idea is to keep the tube from rubbing on the sharp edges of the tire bead.

5) Coat tire bead and rim with soapy water or tire mounting lubricant (I used RuGlide from NAPA). Insert the valve into the wheel hole and get a friend to stand on the tire to get the first bead past the rim. When you get as much in as possible, use two or three tire irons to gently pry the rest of the bead past the rim. Keep checking the valve stem to be sure it's straight. Use the same process to get the second bead past the rim (use more soap, too).

6) Bounce the wheel or bang with a mallet to seat the bead all around. You may need to futz with the valve stem, as it can hang up.

7) Inflate tire to be sure it holds air.

Some guys like to mount their tires while the wheel is mounted on the axle, but my car isn't quite assembled enough for that yet.

Phil

Edited January 16, 2012 by Mochet (see edit history)

[Luv2Wrench]

Congrats on getting the chassis together and the tires mounted. Lot of holes, bolts and nut on that chassis. Putting the tires on seems a little more complicated that I would have thought, but I think your procedure will make it easier. I really can't wait for that time to come!

[Guest Brando & Joanne]

We just bought a 1914 Metz and we are trying to figure out what the correct tail light for this car would be. It seems as though this car came with the electric package, so we are looking for a photo of the electric tail light they would have had with this car. Can you help? The engine number is 28345 so we are looking for some ownership history as well. Any help?

[Guest Mochet]

I see no electric lamps listed in the Model "22" parts book. The Model 22 was made in 1913, 1914 and 1915. Franklin Tucker (Antique Automobile, Mar/Apr 1967) states, however, that the 1915 fore-door had an electric light option which raised the price from $495 to $600. The standard 1914 tail lamp was a kerosene model similar to the Ford T, I believe. Factory photos show a black lamp with polished base and top (nickel?). Attached is a scan from the 1913 catalog. They weren't all the same as Metz bought parts from various makers. I don't believe you need find a particular model. Metz parts (except for the cylinder head) were not marked. I suggest you join our Yahoo Metz Group.

Post a photo of your car.

Phil

[Guest Mochet]

Today I mounted the front wheels after cleaning and re-packing the bearings (which I believe were replacements from the no-longer-made originals). The newer bearings seem to fit well; both inner and outer are Timken tapered bearings #15112. Here is a photo of how the bearings fit on the axle (before packing with grease) and with the wheels installed.

Phil

[Luv2Wrench]

Looks great Phil. Thanks for posting the bearing number as I made need to replace mine. I have all originals but I haven't gone over them to see if they are still fit for use.

[Guest Mochet]

I got some good advice about my Metz brakes, but I decided to send them to a brake shop (All Frictions in CT) to see if they could get the shoes to fit the drums. I had riveted on new 3/16" woven linings from McMaster-Carr, the size the originals seemed to be. Unfortunately, the shoes only fit half way into the drums. Hopefully, the brake experts can get them to work. My two brake cams (these are mechanical brakes, of course) measure .395" and .371" respectively. I may decide to work on those as well, but we'll see. There is very little movement in these shoes; perhaps 1/16" between brakes "off" and fully "on." I assume there should be no play between the brake shoes and cams (?)

Phil

Brake drum a very tight fit! This is as far as it goes.

Showing the brake drum/sprocket wheel unit. This bolts to the wheel.

[Luv2Wrench]

Phil, I looked at your pictures and was surprised to see they don't look like mine. I have two sets of rear axles, wheels, gears, etc. I've attached a couple of pictures. The teeth on my gear are right on the 'drum' part. Maybe your gear is bigger? I've added some measurement to the pictures. The inside diameter of the drum is 8", the total outside diameter is just less than 9". The depth of the drum is 1.25"

[Guest Mochet]

Your sprocket wheels do look different. My brake drums are 8" I.D. like your's, but your gear has 37 teeth, I think, which corresponds to the number in the Metz parts catalog which lists "36 or 37" teeth, My sprockets have 56 teeth, and that number is stamped on the gear. They are actually made from a smaller (36-tooth?) gear which was cut down with the 56-tooth gear welded on. I assume this was to increase power, but it would also decrease speed. This alteration is rather well done and quite old, so I never noticed until now. Maybe I should try going back to the original size...

Phil

[Luv2Wrench]

OK, that is very interesting. I would never had suspected that they were anything other than original. I guess it would increase the power but, as you say, would cut down the top speed. Let me look again and see if I have some extra sprockets.