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Restoring an Early 70's VW Super Beetle


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I know that this is of pretty recent vintage, but I picked this up at a garage/yard sale for my daughter for $300. Now she is getting ready to turn 16 in a couple of months and I need to get it on the road for her.

After seeing all the other chronicles, I thought I would try my hand at it.

Attached are a few pictures of the car as we got it. It is an early 70's Super Beetle with a sunroof. It had no oil in it when I started, I pulled the plugs, turned it over by hand, then put oil in it, pulled the distributor and checked it over. Putl in new points, plugs and wires, hooked it up to a gas can, threw a battery in it and it started! Every time it runs now, it starts faster and runs better.

The big problem is the rust. I looked at the pans and they looked good, but after I took all the carpet out, the heater channels are rusted out and there is some rust under the rear seat. So, I need to get my welding skills up and running!

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And here is where we stand now...Most of the glass is out and most of the interior. Slow going, with work and the honey-do's...But I am trying to get the grrrl involved. :o

I will put updates as we get going. Hopefully the winter will help in terms of having some time to get things done!

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About two months ago my married son did the same thing. A friend of his gave him a 1970 bug. Went to look at it and it runs, but was repainted and needs some TLC. No major rust though. First thing I did was order him a stack of catalogs from various bug suppliers. One nice thing about the bug is that you can get almost all the parts you need, they are easy to work on, and they are almost bullet proof. Have fun with your daughter and let her put some sweat equity in it. She'll enjoy the car more when it's done and have a great pride in owning it. Good luck and keep us posted here on the forum with pictures.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I spent a few months with a '73 beetle last year before realizing the rust was too much for me. Those heater channels take a beating and looks like you'll need heat where you're at!

I have 2 words for you.....

THE SAMBA

TheSamba.com :: Volkswagen Classifieds, photos, shows, forums, and information

Pay special attention to the notes about the fuel line and the carb...originally everything was snug fit without hose clamps. Can you say FIRE?

GREAT group of people. Check their classifieds and you will find just about everything you need. These cars are like british sports cars, everyone who has 1 has 2 or 3 parts cars as well! :)

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  • 1 year later...

Ok..after tearing the yellow Beetle apart, I found that it had been hit in the rear and the floors were gone and the heater channels were gone. Basically, too much work for too little car. Then, the HoneyDo list kicked in and all work stopped as I had to finish building the deck. Here are a couple of before and after pics. I have more recent pics, but they are on the laptop. I will try and post a final pic later

So, I found a 79 VW convertible on ebay in DC and made a deal for it. It looked in much better shape. I saw a couple of small holes in the floor pans and that was it. It has AC and the body is in pretty good shape. The top isn't bad, just dirty and needs to be adjusted. Interior needs to be replaced and of course my girl wants it a different color. So, off we go with it.

Of course, once I started disassembly I found that there was more rust under the sound deadener, so both pans need to be replaced. Didn't take any pics of it before I started tearing into it. But I will post a couple next time.

Frank

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Hey West, the curved windshields were introduced in 73 to meet US safety standards. The yellow Super is a 72. The big difference was the strut front end.

Frank, the curved windshield was a attempt to get more space in the dash area to keep the car from becoming too dated and to improve the drag coefficient. You will recall when the Super Beetle was discontinued as a sedan by mid 1975, the only Beetle sedan after the discontinuation was the standard model which went back to the almost flat (65 and newer) windshield and the old and stronger torsion bar suspension. The VW engineers couldn't outdo Porsche's original design for strength.

If your looking for parts a company called Wolfsburg West is about the best in the business. If you are looking for a great website for information, archives, technical, and for buy and sell and a great forum go to SAMBA.com.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hey guys. I made some progress on the bug over the weekend. Engine is out and the perimeter bolts for the pan as I have to replace both floor pans. Still working on getting the rest of the fasteners off, slowly one at a time. My question is....this is a convertible and I want to remove the body so that I can have sufficient room to get the pans in without screwing something else up!

So....do I need to brace the upper body before I lift it off the old pan? Nothing I've seen has indicated the need....but there is no top to provide rigidity so if I pick it up I don't want it to fold up like a potato chip!

What do you all think?

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Hey guys. I made some progress on the bug over the weekend. Engine is out and the perimeter bolts for the pan as I have to replace both floor pans. Still working on getting the rest of the fasteners off, slowly one at a time. My question is....this is a convertible and I want to remove the body so that I can have sufficient room to get the pans in without screwing something else up!

So....do I need to brace the upper body before I lift it off the old pan? Nothing I've seen has indicated the need....but there is no top to provide rigidity so if I pick it up I don't want it to fold up like a potato chip!

What do you all think?

Since I have only done sedans I would go to the SAMBA web site where many people have done this. Just go to the appropriate model/year and ask the question.

D.

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While I have never restored anything as modern as your VW I would certainly put in some temporary bracing before I lift it off the pan. as no doubt you will have removed the doors some fore and aft timber across the gap would help stopping it from buckling in the middle you probably need some from side to side too. Before you lift it off, think about making a transport on industrial castors so you are not dragging in around every time you need to move it.

old car

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Remove hood, deck lid,bumpers, all fenders. Six people, two at the rear quarters, two at the front "A" pillars at the bottom one at the front apron, one at the rear apron. You will need a rolling temp frame to set it on;

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D.

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Ok... more disassembly. This is where we stand now...Motor out, all body bolts out. Still need to get the rack unhooked and the brake master drained and the lines undone. Build a body cart and brace the body....That is going to be a challenge.

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Frank,

Is it just my imagination or were VW bodies welded to the pan?

The pans are welded to the central backbone, the backbone (tunnel) carries the fuel, brake lines to the rear of the car plus the heater controls,clutch cable, throttle cable, choke cable (deluxe models to Aug of 1960-standard models to August 1965)--The pan and frame head when welded to the central backbone become a solid unit which are bolted to the body. Here is a pictures of a friends 1966 1200A type 115 sunroof done this past week --- notice the holes in the pan rail where it bolts to the underside of the body;

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Here is the pan assy all together, with body hovering above;

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/920445.jpg

D.

Edited by helfen (see edit history)
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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 7 months later...

Well, it has been awhile and between work and getting a kid off to college, it has taken me awhile to cut the floor pans out and weld the new ones in. Now that they are actually in, I took the pan to my local Line-X dealer and had the center section coated. Next on the agenda is to clean up the other bits, paint with chassis black and flip it over to start replacing all the bushings etc. in preparation for putting it back together. Here is what it looks like now, albeit upside down!post-31425-143141724516_thumb.jpg

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  • 2 years later...

It has been awhile due to life...work, kids in college, honey-do list....you all know how it goes. Well I did decide to focus and see what I could accomplish. Got the new bushings installed and cleaned up the transaxle, the starter motor and got them installed.post-31425-143142992243_thumb.jpg

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Got the motor up on the bench and tore it down. What a mess. Apparently water got into the crankcase and the crank and rods were rusty. Once I got it pulled all apart, I dropped it off to the machine shop to have it checked out and cleaned up.

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So, now the original was fuel injected, so I started looking around and scored a fuel injection set up off Craigslist with most everything I need except for the computer. Which I found on The Samba website. A real nice guy out of GA sold me a good unit for a good price. The craigslist setup came with 2 extra mass air flow units...also an extra manifold for a carb! Not sure what I am going to do with that, but it also came with the doghouse in great shape with all the flappers which my car didn't have.

So, today is quality time in the homemade sandblast cabinet to clean it up and then figure out the paint. Still have more of the engine tin to do.

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  • 1 year later...

Well, it has been awhile.  As usual, life got in the way and the bug got put on the back burner.  So after completing a kitchen remodel and retiring, I am back at work on it.  Got the case and heads back from the machine shop, looking good.

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Started putting it all together.

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Found out that there are alot of differences between the carburetor models and fuel injection models, but it is slowly coming together.  The differences are in the cooling tins surrounding the cylinders and heads as well as the heater boxes and the muffler and hangers.  Also, the external oil filter/pump I thought I could use at the beginning of the build, occupied the emissions filter real estate behind the muffler, so it had to go..

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So, now I have to finish plumbing the fuel lines and it is ready to bolt up to the transaxle and see if it works!

 

 

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Edited by Frank Tate (see edit history)
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  • 4 months later...

Well, I got tired of messing with the engine and trying to get it to run.  I had it jury rigged while attached to the transaxle and could get it to crank and fire on starting fluid, but I couldn't get the injectors to inject.  Given the complexity of the Bosch fuel injection and all the different relays and inputs, I decided to pull the engine and put the body back on the pan.

 

I got that accomplished, now all I have to do is get the body lift off the body!!!!  That sucker is too heavy for this old man, so I will wait for my son to get home to help.  At least one thing is accomplished and there is more room in the garage!  Now to start bolting it back together and on to the bodywork.

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8 hours ago, Frank Tate said:

Well, I got tired of messing with the engine and trying to get it to run.

 

8 hours ago, Frank Tate said:

so I will wait for my son to get home to help

 

8 hours ago, Frank Tate said:

Given the complexity of the Bosch fuel injection and all the different relays and inputs, I decided to pull the engine and

Hi Frank, this is Frank,,, uh,, ok,,,not that it is cleared up :) I tagged 3 sentences. but I am always seemingly too busy lately to read all these Resto Threads on this resto-Forum

 

Help fun with my Son too!

 

So, I need to keep tabs on only a few!

 

I choose one idea, that I need to keep  my eye on just a few...Whicjh ones?

 

Ok, I am lifelong factory Trained VW AIR-cooloed only VW guy!!   I do not do "water cooled"  , not that I prefer... only because I went to VW as a 19? year old, then grew up with AIR cooled!  I am 65 years in age.

 

I will follow VW air cooled threads... You are one..hey glad you did come back this moment, as 'theastronusat" is here already today, so that is TWO for MY list!

 

I can give help or advice IF you NEED it. Ok?

 

The injection system YOU have on that year motor IS WAY different that MY DAILY=DRIVER 1970 VW Type 3 Squareback,

 

I know a tick more about my injection system, but I do know a lot on your type.

 

 

Plain cold facts here,, Frank.... not trying to sway you either way, OK?

 

Mine is far better in ONE area than yours.  MINE is easier to understand, easier to do certain things, and if you knew HOW to 're-adjust" factory SEALED adjustments you cannot even see, then MINE is more tunable!

 

Yours is better for this reason...Yours can easily give MORE power or should it say more ability to go faster (highway)In only my opinion as driving each on MANY road tests!  Yours also is perhaps??? far? better on MPG, IF we keep both types to FACTORY settings.  Yours is harder to get around the sealed or /hidden re-setting systems.

 

I have a friend-and-customer who has had his 76 bug since college...I don't know that years, but lets say he has it for 30 years!!  He is an electrical engineer!  He knows that injection theory, better than I, by a LOT.  I can get him to solve any issue, if WE need him to, and he will WANT to help, IF asked! 

 

Need to sleep, so will end here! 

 

Edited by F&J (see edit history)
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Hi Frank!

Thank you for the offer...I will take you up on that when I get the bug back together and get the wiring straightened out.  Or maybe sooner, you know how these things go...lol

 

My first car was a 65 bug which my dad bought for me for $50.  Got it home and he said if you want a car, fix it.  So, i checked out the Muir Idiots book from the library and fixed it.  Traded up to a low mileage 1970 bug and just kept buying and selling.  This one was supposed to be for my daughter, but she is now working on her career with a nice little Mazda 3 to drive.....I doubt she will want to trade back for 1970's technology!   hahahaha

 

I am following your LaSalle thread.....you go get some sleep.  Bad things happen when you rush and don't pay attention.

 

Best,


Frank

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4 minutes ago, Frank Tate said:

.....you go get some sleep.  Bad things happen when you rush and don't pay attention.

You are a friend so I can say this without worry!  Yes sir, I am still awake, and you know what?  You are worry can ease.  ... as what this "test" did to me so far!.  Because I was State Highway...I never would have had any data on sleep depravation!  Ok, MY building was the repair District 2. We have outside crew stationed as well as Inside there under one building or complex

 

There are I think 6 total repair stations for DOT , they tried to set them in perhaps not miles apart, but refined to be "workload miles" apart, so no area of our small state cannot be out of synch in a crisis...meaning DOT is NOT just snow, it can be disasters, hurricane, tornado, it is grass, litter, tree work, drainage maintenance, drainage repair crew, signs and road markings, wow, lots of workload.

 

Some of these 6 repair stations do not have a road crew, maybe due to space ?

 

Well, all the data  I am working with is mine at the place that I get to see how it affects road crew  too, and my info being on the Inside. 

 

That ^ mix ^ I use, I honestly think it did not matter.  As if your are deficient in skills on the truck crew on a 3 to 4 day event, you start seeing a crash, or at least a lot of sideswiped mailboxes or signs??  Never saw that, not even ONE truck crash.. the only crash I can recall (hearing about before my service), was a 75? International Gas Single axle, with the old style sand/salt hopper in back with a Wisconsin 4 cyl mounted way out from the tailgate...Lots of weigh at rear, but truck blade did not trip right, dug in solid, and as the blades are angled to right side, The truck did end-over-end rollover,r but sort of at an angle!  Not sleep issue, I think it was some edge of concrete slab lifted from frost?

 

inside crew may not have much to do on a long duration stop and go snowing, s=o now you add boredom, rather that busy guy on road.  Not to get graphic intent, but strange but predictable "rise of manhood" (must be adrenalin or testosterone out of synch?) is nearly always felt and known by all inside and also outside crews.  But takes the certain train of event, like a longer duration storm that slows down and just keeps snowing enough to go for days.  AND,  Union contract said:  "a 4 hr rest break is mandatory during 17? to 21 nd hour, meaning they "can" have you start your break after you had plowed for 21!  But the silly thing?  If on Storm rules, you cannot take a coffee break!! It is because they allow like an hour for each of 3 daily meals.Crazy. So sleep loss was not seen to be a real dramatic issue,,,actually right now, I am typing more accurate than maybe 5=10 PM last night?? 

 

Something is really wrong around here!  By me sitting I=outside around 3 AM, totally awake, it left me in really nice peace,  Hearing crickets etc, I was brain cell tired? so I was like super mellow but completely apparent of all senses!  That made me think of the instant gone of those animals...and I did forget...The increase in BIG hawks?, so even if we say the hawks did this, I do agree, but I ask why the hawks are more active.  See Frank, I just clicked again!  That forced me to recall I see A LOT of sites where a hawk nailed a bird right near my shop! several hits and I may see one a summer season? (Feathers pile)

 

 

Oh, and my swelling of anles is nuts!  I have rested very well in like no work at all since 4 pm, but the right was back to normal a day ago, but now starting to sweel just a bit, and left is at former max.     I  tried keeping feet up if this is fluid retention, but that is very uncomfortable, so I have put 3 socks per side..so I will see?  No call back at all from clinic..?? I know that if that doctor knew, he would contact, but catch 22, maybe I should think they know the test needed, is not needed? If sock test do not work, I will go again

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