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wiper vacuum motors


Guest leftwing302

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Guest leftwing302

:confused:I just bought wiper motor rebuild kits from Pro Antique auto parts for my 1937 plymouth. I took photos of every phase of disassembley.I followed the instructions and was careful to make sure the new paddles soft parts are folded inward and greased the inside of the motor body.When I hooked up to my vacuum line it didnt move at all.When I took it apart after the rebuild I tried to move the paddle manually and the new paddle seems to have to much friction.Another problem was the little bolts heads,what kind of tool besides small pliers can be used to remove and install these?I love my 37 plymouth and want to get it inspected,but I need help from some of you experienced antique car owners.Any and all help will be greatly appreciated.I also need a headlight switch, Pro was out of these ,any ideas where one may be available? Thanks

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Guest bofusmosby

Sorry, I wish I could help. I am in the process to rtying to get all my wiper parts together because I need to get my wipers up and running as well. If you don't mind me asking, how much did they charge you for the re-build kit? I am debating wether I shoulf try to re-build mine, or just get another one on Ebay. There is a guy that is selling new ones (NOS) that he checks everyone before he sells them. He is asking $40 a piece. According to the listing, he has 4 of them.

Here is a link to the listing.

New 1935-40 Mopar, Ford, GM, Hudson wiper motor: eBay Motors (item 110166143661 end time Jul-19-10 05:25:49 PDT)

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Guest pete324rock
:confused:I just bought wiper motor rebuild kits from Pro Antique auto parts for my 1937 plymouth. I took photos of every phase of disassembley.I followed the instructions and was careful to make sure the new paddles soft parts are folded inward and greased the inside of the motor body.When I hooked up to my vacuum line it didnt move at all.When I took it apart after the rebuild I tried to move the paddle manually and the new paddle seems to have to much friction.Another problem was the little bolts heads,what kind of tool besides small pliers can be used to remove and install these?I love my 37 plymouth and want to get it inspected,but I need help from some of you experienced antique car owners.Any and all help will be greatly appreciated.I also need a headlight switch, Pro was out of these ,any ideas where one may be available? Thanks

you may want to investigate the vacuum part of the equation and it takes everything working in good order to make vacuum wipers work,which is usually less than most hope for. A wet windshield with no gunk on it also factors in this as well. Too bad you didn't post the pics.

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They charge $99 now. Well worth not getting into an accident if you cannot see clearly. But like the last post said, Check your vacuum at the wiper. May be the problem.

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Do you remember how much they charged?

I tried every remedy in the book but couldn't get my 1950 Packard wipers to complete a single cycle. The vacuum was 19 " hg at the motor at idle speed which is ample to run a wiper motor. I sent the motor off to Ficken Wiper Service aka Wiperman.com and got it back in less than 2 weeks. It now runs like new. I paid $107.00 incl s/h.

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I don't recall any significant issues when I installed the Korean War vintage wiper repair kit I got at a local vintage Ford store. I used pliers for those funny screw heads and probably the wrong grease. But it has been about 10 years now and the wiper still works fine.

I do recall that I found out after the fact that Wiperman, who has nothing but rave reviews, charged only a little more than what I paid for my kit. Probably would have been worth sending it to him.

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Guest Earl

I don't know on the Plymouth wipers, but on the old Buicks you need to make sure that the valve behind the plate on the front is snapping back and forth to make it complete the cycle so it switches the suction from one side of the valve to the other. And it will matter about which side that fiberboard thing in there faces the holes that it's up against. You can rotate it by hand to make sure that it's switching back and forth as it should.

Some grease needs to be on there to help keep the thing airtight. If you've stretched the spring that can cause trouble as well. Be careful about holding on to it when you test it as those things are pretty powerful when they take off and you can really pinch a finger good with that arm when it goes back & forth. Bob's automobilia sells the tool to take out those goofy screws they used.

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The Trico screwdriver is easy to make. Cut the business end off a round shaft screw driver. With a cutoff tool grind a notch in the end that fits over the head of the screw. Slide a piece of tubing onto the screw driver shaft so it dosn't come off the head of the screw.

More often than not I use the original paddles.

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I don't know about the Plymouth but for my 34 chevy Trico motor It was replaced but wouldn't work - I removed it, blew sucked pumped and vacuumed the fitting - Nothing. Blaming age and lack of use I put it in the vice, leather wrapped the spruell (sp?) and twisted back and forth. Got easier fast and had sucking sounds so I reinstalled and It has worked great since. Maybe worth a try - It could be too tight if vacuum is good. A hand vacuum pump creating suction while twisting might aid as well. Good Luck!! As far as safety goes - This car toured for years in all manner of weather with no wipers and well rain-Xed windows - flat glass and all, rain blows off very effeciently and visibility is not bad - I'd never recommend it but in a pinch....

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For those funny-headed Trico screws, a piece of steel tubing of about 5/16" od, such as from an old ohv pushrod, slightly squeezed on the business end will do the trick. For a "handle", the simplest thing to do is just bend the other end 90. A fancier handle can be attached if desired. An easy compromize would be using an old thread spool. You aren't going to be using this tool all that much.

Back when '57 Chevys were just used cars, I fixed the lazy vacuum motor in mine by simply applying a small bead of silicone rubber to the fuzz around the paddle, and cleaning and lubriplating the body cavity. Worked well from then on. .

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