bb1970

Post some pics of your Rivieras!!!!!!!!!!

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We inherited a 64 from the family. Black with red interior, and the red has certainly grown on me. 

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1963 Red Riviera 401 Nailhead

Red Riviera Bob

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The Black & Red and Red & Black color combination are popular for many people. The Red is fine with me. The condition of the car was what I had as top priority in my search .

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Plus you add that red air cleaner to the mix and you've definitely got a looker.

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Thank you very much. I was wiping down the engine compartment when I took the stock Red air cleaner off so I could see better. ill take a picture of the engine with the red air cleaner. The engine is silver color. Thankfully previous owners did not change a thing.

Red Riviera Bob

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Posted (edited)

Looks like it's been well taken care of. Do everyone a favor. Turn your battery around so the positive cable isn't so close to the hood when the hood is closed.  A few of us have experienced big electrical shorts when contact has been made.  The cars came from the factory with the positive cable next to the radiator.  Good safety precaution.  

 

Jim Cannon has all of the dealer service bulletins on a CD; well worth the $10 he gets for them.  One of them shows how to run the positive cable between the battery and the hold down bolt to keep it from making contact with the bell of the larger four note horn. 

 

Ed

 

 

Edited by RivNut (see edit history)
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Ed, I'll take action on the battery cable change. Thank you as I embrace safe practices. I'll get the service bulletin Jim has for $10.00

im not certain if my post made it to the AACA no hot air. Nonetheless less, after the broken bell arm was fabricated and replaced in the control panel AND vacuum water control valve was installed per Jim Cannon's instructions so I have hot air. Had it not been for Jim's tech tip on the ROA WEBSITE on how to replace the water control valve id still be wondering.

thank you

Red Riviera Bob

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20 hours ago, RivNut said:

Looks like it's been well taken care of. Do everyone a favor. Turn your battery around so the positive cable isn't so close to the hood when the hood is closed.  A few of us have experienced big electrical shorts when contact has been made.  The cars came from the factory with the positive cable next to the radiator.  Good safety precaution.  

 

Jim Cannon has all of the dealer service bulletins on a CD; well worth the $10 he gets for them.  One of them shows how to run the positive cable between the battery and the hold down bolt to keep it from making contact with the bell of the larger four note horn. 

 

Ed

 

 

Ed, thanks for the safety tip on the battery.

Red Riviera Bob

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We've had the rainiest winter on record here in Seattle, but the sun finally peeked out yesterday so I took my 64 down to the marina and the beach. Just got her back from the mechanic after a tune up and Pertronix install.

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Weather is finally coming around and I've been able to swap in lowering springs and pop on the new wheels. Before and after shots show what Jamco's  2" drop provides although the springs that came out where way too big. Hoping after alignment the front settles in !

Bill

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Looks good.  Your front is going to drop after some driving for sure.  Give it a couple hundred miles, do some cornering and hit some bumps.  If it doesn't, you can still cut a bit out of them if it's still too nose high.  If it stays like that, a 1/3 of a coil should do it.

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5 hours ago, bodayguy said:

We've had the rainiest winter on record here in Seattle, but the sun finally peeked out yesterday so I took my 64 down to the marina and the beach. Just got her back from the mechanic after a tune up and Pertronix install.

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Yes, sir. A very fine looking Riviera indeed. I like the wheel covers and white walls.

 

 

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This is my 64 KX code. Bought it about 2 years ago and did a complete mechanical restoration to 95% original.  Put in a new headliner and carpet.  Dropped 2 inches and tried to emulate GS wheels only slightly larger :).  Going to paint later this summer.  ROA and this site have been a big help.  Also Tom Mooney answered numerous e-mails to help with this process.

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Out in the world for the first time this year....finished the engine compartment and interior over the weekend.

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Looking good.  What wheel tire setup are you using.  I just converted my '65 from air Ride to stock shocks and springs (too many headaches with the Air Ride).  But now I need new rims and tires.  I dont like wheel gap like most folks, and the standard height is so high.  I tried a supposed 2 inch drop springs, from Original Parts Group, but that turned out to be a 4 inch drop and I could not even get a 17 inch rim on the car.  My big problem is rubbing the fender with the tires in a turn.

So my 20 inch rims are too big even with a low profile tire.  I am thinking 17 inch rims with a 0 offset, 8 inch width for the fronts, with a higher profile tire. Your setup looks good.

 

So my questions are:

1. What is the size of the rims

2. what is the rim offset (0 for exact middle of the rim)

3. How wide are the rims? 7 inch?, 8 inch? 

4. What is the tire size? how tall are the tires.

5.  Do you have any fender rub issues?

 

I would appreciate help from anyone on this, as I am so frustrated with the whole situation.  My car is a driver, and I keep running into roadblocks on this suspension issue.

 

 

 

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I've got specs posted elsewhere, but they're Ridler 695s, 20x10 with 5.5 BS and 20x8.5 with 4.5 BS.  The car is lowered over 3" (I cut my own coils), and the fronts would rub the inside on full crank, so I put on 5/16" spacers and all good now.  I could actually put the 10" wide rears on the front and they'd fit (I tried it this weekend while doing all 4 brakes), and the rears I believe a guy can fit 12" or 14" wide without too much trouble if he wanted.  My tires right now are 275/40 on the back and 245/40 on the front.  I'll end up getting some custom 12" wide rears with some 335 section tires and put the 10" wide fronts eventually, but I'm happy with it for now.

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Thanks for the details! Anyone else have input on this?

 

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KMD,

 

I went with American Racing Salt Flats painted to order - 18x8 and 20x8.  Fronts have a 4.5" backspace.  Rears are 4.25".  If I wanted to modify exhaust I could have gone a little wider in rear but I used a Waldron's stock exhaust.

 

Tires are 245/40/18 and 275/30/20.  Rears have a little more wrap to them so look a little wider than fronts.  I do have a light rub up front if I crank wheel all the way, which rarely happens.

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WYVERN: a mythical animal usually represented as a 2-legged winged creature resembling a dragon. (Merriam-Webster)

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Beautiful in white! 

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Looking sharp at Classics & Chrome in Rockford (across from Rick Nielsen's black and white T-bird)

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Just a couple of cool pics I thought I'd share......

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Is that a !!!BATWING!!! air cleaner on a Batman car?

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