Roger Zimmermann

Construction of a Continental Mark II model, scale 1:12

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Randy, thanks for the comments! At first, that blue tone was not what I expected but, the more I see it, the more I like it. I forgot to say that the sunshades are movable in 2 directions: to hide the sun when it's in front of the driver and on the side too. Will that be easy to operate when assembled? I doubt!

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The work is going on with the seats. With the exception of the robe cords (parts must be chromed), the front seat is ready as well as the rear cushion. Right now, I’m working on the central armrest; this is why only the upper part of the back rest is ready The most difficult aspect at the seats is the welting done with the same color as the inserts.

Even with very thin leather, there are sometimes bad surprises…To continue the rear seat, I had to install the side trim panels. Some modifications were required because 4 thin leather are almost ½ mm thick!

 

 

912 Front seat ready.JPG

913 rear seat.JPG

Edited by Roger Zimmermann
Comment and picture added (see edit history)
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Roger,

 

Dang !  Those seats look so real.  The fit and finish is much better than on my 1:8 scale Pocher.  The Swiss craftsman!  We have a member of the Pocher community that is in Switzerland and his Pocher R.R. is immaculate.  But he is starting with a kit and, like most of the Pocher builders,  heavily modify  the kit.  Injection molding from thirty to fourty years ago leaves a heck of a lot to be desired.  There are parts that are after market that are available.  Fellow modelers develop better and more accurate parts. The improved parts,  in that community,  really make the models first rate.  If you took the time to do them yourself, you would be years in the making of the model  (just like you).  No Continental builders club to go to for specialized parts.  You have the satisfaction to know that when you are done, that car is all yours.  

 

As you said, it is really a shame that the viewer will not see 90% of the detail that you put into this beautiful model.  BUT what is available to the eye..................................Astounding.

 

Randy

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Roger,

 

It is amazing how crisp and clean the lines on the upholstery are.  Not a tiny imperfection anywhere!  From the pictures, the seats and the insert look like the real thing.  Masterful

 

We are celebrating Thanksgiving this week and all of us have eaten too much.  Thank goodness Monday is tomorrow and we can get back to work to burn off all those calories.  

 

Randy 

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Thanks for the comments, Randy! My seats are nice, but not perfect. My method to add the welting is to have separate parts, gluing the welting on one part and then gluing the second one to the assembly. If the welting have been the same color as the seats, some small imperfections with the distance welting/seat would get unnoticed. But with a contrasting color...Well, it's just a model!

I'm not happy with the last element of the rear seat: the cover which close the cavity when the center arm rest is down. I tried first with an unpainted bit of leather. Was good, but with the painted leather, well, the sides are not doing what I expected....Well, it's just a model!

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Roger, I think your results at miniatures is better than the Duesenberg. Many items don't appear to follow a consistent scale and some even look clumsy. Your examples follow scale far better. I don't think I've found any visible discrepancies in the Continental.

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12 hours ago, Bleach said:

Roger, I think your results at miniatures is better than the Duesenberg. Many items don't appear to follow a consistent scale and some even look clumsy. Your examples follow scale far better. I don't think I've found any visible discrepancies in the Continental.

Well, it seems that you know Duesenberg cars better than me! From the various pictures I saw from this model, nothing looked strange to me but, I'm really not a specialist from that type of cars. Next to that, I have a few remarks: I was fortunate enough to have access to 3 Mark II. When I was in doubt about a dimension, I went to that place located at about 8 miles from home. I notices that evaluating a dimension based on one or more pictures can led to a wrong result. I suppose that Mr. Chenet had not an access to a Duesenberg like I had for the Mark II.

Depending of the kind of material used like brass instead of steel, some dimensions have to be exaggerated for strength.

Another point: the scale. I believe that the Duesenberg is 1:6 while mine is 1:12. I could never do a 1:6 model in my flat! In 1:12, some details can be skipped and nobody will notice but, at 1:6 every detail must be done; this could led to some inconsistency.

The last point: the Duesenberg is from 1932, my model is from 1956.

All these elements are making a comparaison extremely difficult; anyway, I do find that Duesenberg super!

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Thanks Dileep! Yes, they are looking comfortable, it's just an illusion as the support is just wood! For the floor, I'm planning to use dark blue velvet, unless somebody has a better idea.

 

The rear seat is now done. The central arm rest gave me trouble. At the end, it’s not exactly the way I expected but I cannot change it: when the arm rest is stored, it squeezes the leather against the levers and elongate it. When the arm rest is down, the side of the hiding panel is unfortunately no more under tension.

Well, after all, it’s just a model!

It’s now time to go to the side quarter and door panels and do the inserts.

914 rear seat.JPG

915 rear seat.JPG

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10 hours ago, Roger Zimmermann said:

Well, it seems that you know Duesenberg cars better than me! From the various pictures I saw from this model, nothing looked strange to me but, I'm really not a specialist from that type of cars. Next to that, I have a few remarks: I was fortunate enough to have access to 3 Mark II. When I was in doubt about a dimension, I went to that place located at about 8 miles from home. I notices that evaluating a dimension based on one or more pictures can led to a wrong result. I suppose that Mr. Chenet had not an access to a Duesenberg like I had for the Mark II.

Depending of the kind of material used like brass instead of steel, some dimensions have to be exaggerated for strength.

Another point: the scale. I believe that the Duesenberg is 1:6 while mine is 1:12. I could never do a 1:6 model in my flat! In 1:12, some details can be skipped and nobody will notice but, at 1:6 every detail must be done; this could led to some inconsistency.

The last point: the Duesenberg is from 1932, my model is from 1956.

All these elements are making a comparaison extremely difficult; anyway, I do find that Duesenberg super!

 

Yes, I've seen my share of Duesenbergs and was able to spend quite a bit of time up and close around a couple of JB Nethercutt's Duesenbergs, one of them the famous 20 Grand, while he was still alive.

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Roger,

 

There is a thread (on the AACA Forum) from Gary W, member 623; " Restoration of a 37 Buick Model 48 has started"  is inspiration to us out here doing a 1:1 car.   I interrupted the progress on my Fiat 124 Spider when I made the decision to acquire the 36 Pontiac Master 6 Coupe.  What this gentleman has done in one year on his restoration is inspiration to all of us.  He is a younger man with two young sons helping him in his garage, which is as clean a garage as I have seen!  If you start reading that thread, you will not quit !   He is doing a superb job with only the painting, plating and a few other services  done by others.   The rest he is doing himself. 

 

As you have restored many cars in the past, you will appreciate what he has accomplished and the quality of his work.

Randy 

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Randy, I had a look at this thread. Impressive, but too many pictures for my taste. I did not look at all pages, because it's too detailed but I'm sure that somebody restoring a similar car will enjoy all the details. When I restored my cars, I did many pictures but way less than this example. For 2 reasons: the pictures were analog and it would cost a small fortune to do so much and at that time, there was no Internet to publish what I was doing. The process was about the same with differences on cars about 20 years younger.

 

Now, my latest update:

 

The inserts are done. Sometimes with discouragement: the quarter and door trim panels must be assembled to see if clearance and alignment are corrects; I could no more assemble the upper door moldings! Without leather is was already not an easy task to find the holes for the screws; the leather, even if very thin, prevents the screw to engage the thread. What to do? Thinking out of the box, I decided that the screw will be there just for the show and the moldings will be inserted into the door panel with a “blade” I glued to the part. Unfortunately, due to a different construction, I cannot do that system for the rear quarters. As that upper molding must be assembled from inside the car, I hope that I will succeed.

Anyway, the door and quarter panel inserts are done; basically, the interior is at 95% ready, electrical work not included.

It was then time to polish the parts which were no good after the nickel plating, as well as the front bumper which had a chrome adhesion problem. This time, only the letters for twice the name “Continental” will be plated with nickel; the other parts which were first plated with nickel are now on the small tree to be chromed. The attachment method to the tree is marginal; I hope nothing will be lost.

The other tree has the bumper and other “heavy” parts; they will be able to get more current then the more delicate parts.

The first picture is showing the alphabet soup; the second picture shows that closed cage and both tree.

916 letters.JPG

917 the last batch.JPG

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Fortunately, I did not went today to the plating company: By sorting the finished parts, I found 4 unplated escutcheons for the front seat back! They are now attached to the tree with small parts; you can compare with the picture above to see what I added!

918 completed tree.JPG

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Roger,  

 

I have a question.  When you put the small letters in the plating "box" does it get agitated for plating on both sides?  Or do you get one side plated only?  If the letters are laying on the screen in the box, is there a partial plating of the back side?  If so, I guess that the plater has to make sure that the letters are all facing "up" to get the front of the letters plated.  

 

Sorry about the issue with your screws not being able to go through the leather and into the proper screw holes.  As always, there is a solution to the problem at hand.

 

Randy

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This is a question for which I have no answer. The first time I put letters into a cage, the result was very good, with the letters plated both sides, no matter how they are in the cage. Anyway, I put the letters myself into the cage and I don't look especially if they are on the "good" side or not. As the cage is going into various bathes, they will not stay the way I put them into.

I went today with the latest batches; I will have the answer in some weeks...

Right now, I'm doing the wiring for the spark plugs. It's more complicated than anticipated because the wires are placed into 4 guides. At first, I intended to do the spacers with rubber; in fact I'm doing them with black plastic. The pictures will follow when it's ready.

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Yesterday, I could finish the spark plus wires. Obviously, I’m getting older: I had more difficulties to install the wires than anticipated. My eyes are no more what they were once…

Even if there are still some small items to fabricate, they will be done during the final assembly, with the hope that no damage will be done to the finish. It’s now a good time to turn back at the body. The main part is almost ready; I still have trouble with the LH lower rear quarter with some slight ripples. The roof is almost perfect; it’s easier to get at a good shape with the roof because its more rounded that the sides.

If the doors are in a good alignment with the front fenders, they are ready. As you can see, the front fenders are now in work. To verify their alignment with the main body, the parts will be installed on the frame. As water is involved with sanding, all parts which are now attached to the frame will be removed.

 

919 with spark plug wires.JPG

920 Body shop.JPG

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Mr. Z., you may think your eyes are not as good as earlier years and that you have more sanding to do to make the rear quarter right, but if you threw it all in a basket and said it was complete, it would be SO much better than I could do or have done at my best. Truly amazing sir, I do so enjoy your posts so much.  You are always the 1st place I look on this forum.  Thanks for being you and sharing your talent.   John

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John, I do appreciate that you are enjoying this thread! Well, the eyes are indeed not that bad, but I notice a difference...In fact, I still can see ripples when there should be none! Thanks for your comments.

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Today, I took the decision to paint the underside of the hood and trunk lid. With the exception of 2 or 3 dust grains (can be polished when dry), I’m pleased with the paint. It’s certainly not an original color, but it has to please me first! I took also another decision: the original Mark II hood has a blanked for noise and heat absorption; I will skip it. I’m getting tired to make one more element and one more, and so on. There are 2 other reasons I’m skipping it: what king of material is suitable for that and how to attach it to the hood without wrinkles? It will be considered as a special order!

The last picture attached is from the real blanket for better understanding.

921 final paint.JPG

922 final paint.JPG

Underside hood (3).jpg

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Looks to be a dead ringer of the color  William Clay Ford special ordered for his personal Continental. 

 

So maybe not a color from the order book, but a factory produced color just the same!

 

Conti 2.JPG

Conti 3.JPG

Edited by Buick 59 (see edit history)
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