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Removing heads


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#1 Harry Connors

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Posted 14 November 2009 - 08:51 PM

I got to spend some time with the Connie today. I removed the intake manifold and all those items that you have to remove before getting to the bolts. Now I want to remove the heads to clean them inside and outside. I also want to be sure that the new style head gaskets are on it. It seems like Superman was hired to tighten the head nuts down. Does anyone have any tips on how to get these loose without busting the studs? I wired brushed all of the paint and rust off of the nuts and applied plenty of penetrating oil before departing tonight. My back was starting to hurt from pulling on the breaker bar and I ran out of nice Anglo-Saxon four letter words to describe my feelings.

Can these head studs and nuts be replaced with head bolts? And if so who has them?

I will let them soak in the Penetrating oil for a week and bring my torch with me next time.

All tips will be appreciated. Thanks Harry

#2 Paul K.

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Posted 14 November 2009 - 09:31 PM

Penetrating oil may take a few days to do its job. Take the advice from the forum and use GOOD penetrating oil. I have yet to try a product called KROIL but everyone swears by it. Readily available and very good is PB Blaster. WD 40 is OK for lightweight household items only. BE PATIENT. It will pay off in the end with few or no broken studs.

#3 peecher

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Posted 15 November 2009 - 12:24 AM

Most of the drilled holes for the head studs on the V12 are open to the water jacket(s) and the proper studs will actually seal against the block whereas the head bolts used in the '49 to '53 Fords do not. There are also a few shallow drilled holes ( oil filter mount area) that bolts might bottom before tightening against the cylinder head. After market replacement studs come with allen head tips and are very easy to install and with a dab of permatex you can insure a good seal.
When removing the heads I would squirt plenty of penetrating oil down around all the studs after removing the nuts. Sometimes the stud will loosen instead of the nut so that's one less friction point. Then pry and bump the cylinder head loose.
And Yes, some of those Anglo-Saxon four letter words can be a part of the operation!

Edited by peecher, 15 November 2009 - 12:26 AM.


#4 DavidAU

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Posted 15 November 2009 - 01:07 AM

You could try Loctite Freeze and Release. I have found it to be very good. Another method you could use is a butane gas bottle to heat the nuts and drip candle wax on to them. The wax permeates into the thread and releases the nut. Whatever method you use you should have an impact wrench on the nuts as it will crack the nuts off easier and has less chance of twisting the studs off. Studs are recommended for the earlier engines as the deck surface is not that thick and it is very easy to strip the threads when installing the heads.
Welcome to: Loctite® Freeze & Release

David

#5 peecher

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Posted 15 November 2009 - 03:19 AM

David, that freeze and release looks to be great stuff. Anybody wrenching on one of these old rigs needs a can it. Thanks for the tip.

#6 Frenchy32

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Posted 15 November 2009 - 07:54 PM

There are 4 studs on each side of the block ( center one ) are entering the water jacket area. I just finish building the engine for Harold in Tucson and I put a light coat of special sealer so the the water does not find the way out throught the studs than under the head washer.

Thanks
Frenchy




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