1931 Packard 833 468 Coupe

[Tom M]

A little History

I own a 1931 Packard Std 8 833 Coupe 468. It has been in the family since 1958. My Great Uncle owned it before my father purchased it from him in 1988. Dad did some work on old Bessie (that is the name my friend gave her) when he own it until he passed away in 1996 and left it in my hands. Well fast forward to roughly 2005 I had some engine problems and you know what happens once you start tearing things apart one thing lead to another now I am at a full down to the frame restoration.

You can follow up on my restoration of a 1931 Packard 833 468 Coupe here

1931-833-Restoration

Edited January 25, 2021 by Tom M (see edit history)

[Tom M]

For you all that don't visit the Packard Forum.

Here are some wood grain pictures. This was all done by hand by a lady that works for the shop that did the metal fabrication on my car.

[Tom M]

Received my headlight buckets back from the platter last week.

Here are some before and after shots.

They did a wonderful job. I am pleased with the results.

[Tom M]

Video says it all

<embed type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allownetworking="all" wmode="transparent" src="http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid153.photobucket.com/albums/s210/packin31/Engine_Fired-up_05_29_2010.flv" height="361" width="600">

Had Murphy's law hit my oil pan and cracked it in a few places Not sure on how and when it happen but at least I got her going once again.

[TG57Roadmaster]

And congrats to you, Sir, especially for having had a Classic Packard in the family since '58. Wow!

You're way ahead of me, but seeing your progress is really an encouragement.

Keep 'em coming...

TG

PS, Found this over at the Old Car Manual Project, from the '31 Standard Eight brochure...

Edited May 30, 2010 by TG57Roadmaster (see edit history)

[apacap]

Hi Tom, I enjoyed your photos. Looks like you are doing a wonderfull job! I have a couple of 31 Std 8 parts cars, if you need something give me a call at 217 778 1425, Allen

[Tom M]

Tom,

Thanks for the kind words and link to the Old Car Manual Project I will have to check it out.

Alan,

Thank you also. If I stumble over anything I might need as I move forward reinstalling things I will keep your number handy.

[Tom M]

Just added some recent photos

http://forums.aaca.org/f134/31-833-restoration-213384-25.html#post773940

Edited February 8, 2011 by Packin31 (see edit history)

[Tom M]

Updates in my Blog here

http://forums.aaca.org/f134/31-833-restoration-213384-11.html#post926868

[Tom M]

A few updates.

Last few weeks I have been stripping wooden spokes on the rims and staining them as I go. Will take some pictures soon and post them.

Today I received the Trunk Rack Lock Knobs from the machinist that my brother works with.

The one on the left are the new ones. What he did was tapped the center and made a screw that can be threaded in to it to hold down the locking part.

The last picture is from Kanter as you can see the difference on the assembly. One would need to peen over the end thin rod to hold the locking part in place.

[Tom M]

Some progress on the rims. Have then stained and first cost of Satin Spar Urethane. In a day or two I will lightly sand them with 220 and then put another coat of Spar Urethane but that coat will be gloss.

Once I have the wood portion finished I will tape them off so I could sand the metal portion, epoxy prime, a few coats of SPI Single Stage Black and they should be ready for tires which I still need to order.

First two picture are without flash last one is with flash.

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[oldcar]

Hi Tom

I am just slightly surprised that your Coupe still had wood spoke wheels as late as 1931, but them apart from the early Single Sixes I know very little about Packards. Nearly all the cars I have looked at here in Australia seem to have disc or the very occasional car with wires.

oldcar.

[nzcarnerd]

Looked at this thread out of curiosity and thought the same re the wheels. The Standard Catalog does not mention wood wheels as an option after 1930 but a quick google image search of 1931 Packard shows up several on woods, with models from 826 to big series roadster and sedan. If what I read is true, the wood wheels were the more expensive option.

[Restorer32]

Packard had wood wheels available as an option even as late as 1936 surprisingly.

[Tom M]

Looked at this thread out of curiosity and thought the same re the wheels. The Standard Catalog does not mention wood wheels as an option after 1930 but a quick google image search of 1931 Packard shows up several on woods, with models from 826 to big series roadster and sedan. If what I read is true, the wood wheels were the more expensive option.

That is true, What I have read to upgrade to wood wheels the cost was $25.

[Tom M]

Some more progress on the rims. We did our traditional fourth of July at Indiana home. Got back home on Thursday morning so I spent most of the after noon, evening and Friday prepping the rims for epoxy primer and SPI SS Black.

Got up early on Saturday did 4 rims and on Sunday did 2 rims. Each rim I sprayed two coats of epoxy primer let it setup for about four hours then sprayed 3 coats of the black.

Last week I order tires from Universal and I received them on Tuesday two days earlier then I expected them to arrive. So now that I have the tires, rims all painted they are almost ready to go. I just need to get the snap rings off to the platter and get them platted and then they will be ready for the new skins.

Edited August 6, 2012 by Packin31 (see edit history)

[Tom M]

Tires mounted and took old Bessie out for a spin today. It was a beautiful day for it.

[Steve9]

A great day for an incredible automobile! Beautiful work!

[keiser31]

Gorgeous car! Good on you for that nice work.

[Tom M]

Thanks friends. It has been a long journey and it is getting there.

As you can see I still need to tackle the front fenders and also need to find an upholstery shop to do the interior for me. That is one area I will leave to a pro.

[Tom M]

Here are some latest picture of Old Bessie

She is all painted now; interior completed but as you know there is always something to do to these old gals .

Have a great day

Edited May 4, 2015 by Packin31 (see edit history)

[Tom M]

Been some time since I posted last. Not much going on with the Packard. Been in hibernation for about 2 years now.

I know the following pictures aren't of a Packard. I once owned a GTO and regretted selling it. I have been looking at adds lately and my twin found this one Facebook market place. We went out to look at it a few weekends ago and I could not pass on it. Body work and interior has been restored, engine bay could use some tlc.

Now back to the Packard. I have put about 1000 miles since finishing the restoration. Would like to drive it more but need front end alginement. The new tires have gotten some excessive wear on then. I am afraid to put any more miles on it until I get the alignment done. Hopefully next year.....

Edited November 30, 2019 by Packin31 (see edit history)

[edinmass]

How about some recent photos.....the links don’t work anymore.

[Tom M]

Edinmass,

 

These are some of the pictures from the broken link above.

[Tom M]

The one with the gray front fenders was before getting them painted

 

The one with golf ball in hole (not sure how that posted) was of my first hole in one

[Tom M]

I did it. Finally ordered new leaf springs for the Front and back from Eaton Springs.

They were delivered last weekend.Today I cleaned up the fronts primed and painted.

Tomorrow will work on getting the rears cleaned up and painted

[keiser31]

Those folks do a great job.

[Tom M]

Got the rear leafs painted today. 😎

[alsancle]

What did you use to lube the individual leaves?  Graphite?

[Tom M]

From Eaton

"Because your vehicle is your pride and joy we send the springs unpainted so you can finish them to your liking. When painting them do not take them apart. Paint them as one unit by hanging the spring by one eye, wipe them down so they are clean and giving them a couple 2 or 3 coats of good quality spray paint, color of your choice of course."

 

I am going to talk to Eaton to see what they recommend for lubing them.

 

I was going to lube them once intalled. 

Unless it's easier to lube them before installing them ? I am open for input on that ?

Thanks

Edited September 25, 2023 by Tom M (see edit history)

[alsancle]

41 minutes ago, Tom M said:

From Eaton

"Because your vehicle is your pride and joy we send the springs unpainted so you can finish them to your liking. When painting them do not take them apart. Paint them as one unit by hanging the spring by one eye, wipe them down so they are clean and giving them a couple 2 or 3 coats of good quality spray paint, color of your choice of course."

 

I am going to talk to Eaton to see what they recommend for lubing them.

 

I was going to lube them once intalled. 

Unless it's easier to lube them before installing them ? I am to input.

Thanks

Leaf spring lubrication is an interesting subject to me and I'm looking forward to their answer.   I have understood that one of the biggest issues with our cars not riding or handling correctly is that the leaf springs are not correctly lubricated.

[Tom M]

I will post their answer when I hear back from them.

[Steve_Mack_CT]

Nice to see this car again, been a while since the posts were more frequent when you were working on it.

 

My pal Pat Musante preps a lot of springs with a graphite lube/oil concoction.  Will see him next week and ask about specific mix.  90% are new springs made here in CT for Model As and Ts.

Edited September 27, 2023 by Steve_Mack_CT (see edit history)

[bradsan]

Eaton has a great spring tech section on their website.

Here is what they say about greasing springs. ...apparently, it depends on the steel used, which is usually related to when the spring itself ( not the car) was manufactured

https://www.eatondetroitspring.com/greasingsprings/

 

Also, powder coating is bad for the temper

 

Brad

[KlassicGuy]

Great work 

[Tom M]

Steve, Thanks. It will be interesting to hear what his mix is.

 

Brad, Thanks for the link. I did go through their tech questions and read that one about greasing but still not sure if the ones they made for me should be greased or not. I have not received a response/email back from Mike at Eaton.

 

There is some rust started to form between the leafs already so I need to get to the bottom of greasing or not.

[bradsan]

As I read the tech article  all newer springs post the 1950's use the SAE 5160 steel and greasing is a no-no.

Their website says that all of their leaf springs are made with 5160.

I have some difficulty accepting the claim that grease can attack steel , doesn't quite compute in my brain,  but then I'm not a chemist or metallurgist .

Would be interesting to know what they think of products like SlipPlate ( graphite paint) . I suspect they'll say now ans the springs are designed to function with steel on steel friction

But it can't hurt to wait for Mike to confirm that is the case!

[Tom M]

Brad,

 

As I was going through their tech questions some more I found this.

 

"Leaf Finish

Mike,

Please can you inform what’s the best/correct finish for both the visible and invisible (IN THE STACK) parts of leaf springs?

A couple of people I know insist on painting them totally including all in between the leafs, the normal for them bondaprimer / undercoat / enamel topcoat layers.

(They do have to externally visually match body finish on some vehicles)

While I don’t have any expertise in this area at all (as the following may well prove!), it seems as it just chafes out in weeks from between the leafs, prevents grease type protection adhering, harbors dirt and causes more rust than otherwise…

Regards -Dave

Dave,

We do not recommend that any coating of any kind be applied to the inner surfaces of a leaf spring. The coating, whether it be paint or powder coating, WILL wear off due to interleaf friction. When the coating wears off, looseness between the leaves will appear. This looseness will allow the leaves extra movement which can cause premature breakage of the leaves or cause the center-bolt to shear.

The rusting between the leaves is a natural thing caused by the interleaf fiction.

Grease has an adverse reaction to spring steel which causes the steel to degrade and weaken the spring, so we do not recommend using grease/graphite between the leaves.

The appearance of rust is something that has to be lived with. See what I had to say about Painting vs. Powder Coating vs. Chroming springs.

-Mike"

 

I just got off the phone with Mike and he stated grease is not recommended.

 

Thanks for all your input

Tom

 

Edited September 28, 2023 by Tom M (see edit history)

[Tom M]

Beautiful day here in Woodridge IL 

 

Took Bryce out for his first ride in Packard today. 

 

 

[Steve_Mack_CT]

So cool!  I remember following your efforts to restore this car over I think 15 years ago here - an epic journey.  Glad you still have it!