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38 Olds restoration


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Here is my first attempt at a restoration - just starting the process with this 38. It sat in my wife's uncle's backyard for at least 35 years and it has its share of rust issues. He bought it in 1942. Anyway it had been an education to this point. I am at the point where I need to fill the brake master cylinder and bleed them - hoping that they will hold pressure. The straight eight is in the process of being rebuilt by a friend of a friend. My wife gave me five years to complete it and I am two years into that. I hope that the pics uploaded......

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Guest thom

Hats off to your efforts. I went through the same process several years ago with my 38 Dodge sedan and completed most of the restoration in 2007 (although I question whether one is ever finished with these marvels of the past). As a suggestion, while the body is off the frame and once the motor is installed, make a seat and drive the car to test the mechanicals. It is so easy to work on the mechanicals without the body, now is the time to assure everything is in perfect working (i.e., brakes, transmission, rear axle, etc.). Good luck with your work. Thom

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No - the Ghia is not mine. I was fortunate to find a good body guy who is cutting out the rusted floor pans/body panels and welding in new pans and patch panels. The pic was taken in his shop. I am working out of my garage and don't have the equipment to deal with the massive rust issues. Kemps Rod and Custom in Michigan made the floor pans and patch panels for me. The engine is an 8. I am having hardened valve seats put in it so unleaded gasoline won't be a problem. One neat thing about the car is that it has dual side mount spare tires. I think 38 was the last year they were available. Here is a pic of the rolling chassis pre sandblast and epoxy coat. If I can dig up a pic of the car the day I pulled it out of the weeds I will post it as well.

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By the way - I had a 1950 DeSoto for a while when I was in high school. It wasn't a woody but but the fluid drive was kind of neat and it was huge inside. We could load a ton of people in it to go to the drive in. My dad paid $50 for it and we (my brother and I) drove it for several years. Dad finally sold it for $25.

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Guest abh3usn

Larry, nice to see an Olds on its way to the road again. You're making good progress. I love the dash on these cars. Keep us updated.

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Guest imouttahere

"My wife gave me five years to complete it..."

LarryJ, don't you know how unbecoming such a statement is to you? If this is really true, then you need to let your wife know who's boss, in no uncertain terms. And under no circumstances should you admit it on an internet forum!

Edited by imouttahere (see edit history)
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If she knew how much money I am spending she would shoot me - even after 36 years of marriage. Her exact words were "if its not done in five years it is going to the dump." She has mellowed some after seeing it without all of the rust. I finished forming the last of the new brake lines today and filled the master cylinder. Numerous leaks but I got them all tightened up and now have brakes.

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"My wife gave me five years to complete it..."

LarryJ, don't you know how unbecoming such a statement is to you? If this is really true, then you need to let your wife know who's boss, in no uncertain terms. And under no circumstances should you admit it on an internet forum!

FIVE YEARS???? You are one lucky dude. Most women would throw us out after three.
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Thanks - I saved the old lines when I removed them to use as patterns - worked out pretty well I think. I have the gas line formed as well but am not ready install the tank. I had the gas tank redone, which was a basket case, by a Gas Tank Renu franchisee in Iowa City, Iowa, but have not located a working sending unit. I bought one for a later model GM product and am considering taking parts from the original and trying to make the two into one that works. A project for another day as I will be out of town all this next week. I have a parts car as well - unfortunately, the same parts on both cars seem to always be in similar shape.

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Guest simplyconnected

Larry, I'm glad your brakes turned out right. I'm anxious to see the finished product. Sounds like you are going top drawer on everything. It will be stunning when done, I'm sure.

- Dave Dare

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Here is a pic of the Olds the day I pulled it out of the weeds. Lots of work ahead. Checked with SUR&R on the fuel tank sending unit and they don't have one for this car but assure me that they can rebuild mine despite its very poor condition. I may give them a shot at it.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Took the day off to do some work on the Olds. I cleaned up and painted the parking brake cable transfer bar and the front cable. Got the front cable installed and am working on the two rear cables. The rear two cables were shot so I found one on ebay that purportedly was for the car but after receipt I am doubtful. I may have to break down and just buy two new ones. Does anyone know of a supplier other than Kanter for brake cables? Also spent a good part of the day looking for the rear cable brackets - in the garage somewhere but its like a needle in a haystack. I am going to have to find a picture of the brackets.

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  • 1 month later...

Glad to be back in the good old USA from vacation. Found the hand brake cables I need and better yet I found the cable brackets in my garage. That clean up project that is rapidly becoming a necessity. Anyway, here are some pics of the cables in the brackets - before and after. I think I just have three major things to accomplish before the chassis is ready for the body - the steering box, the drive shaft, and engine/transmission.

Went to see Crosby, Stills, and Nash in Kansas City - those guys are looking pretty ragged - The average age of the crowd had to be mid to late 50's - Oh yeah - that's my age........

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Guest sayhonkmon

I have never removed a car body from a frame; where do you start?? How do you figure out

where the bolts are and what to take loose. Do you need a special hoist or what do you reccommend? My email address is clem754@verizon.net. Thanks. I have a 36 Dodge panel truck that was flooded in hurricane Ivan and I'd like to salvage it if I can.

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I have never removed a car body from a frame; where do you start?? How do you figure out

where the bolts are and what to take loose. Do you need a special hoist or what do you reccommend? My email address is clem754@verizon.net. Thanks. I have a 36 Dodge panel truck that was flooded in hurricane Ivan and I'd like to salvage it if I can.

First thing you need to get is a shop manual for your particular truck. It should tell all about all of the procedures. Try various online booksellers such as Irv Bishko. There are also guys on the Dodge Truck forum who can guide you.

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Sayhonkman - I found a reproduction body manual online and just started removing the bolts that I could. I took a lot of digital pics along the way and grouped small pieces/nuts and bolts in baggies with labels as to what they were. Many bolts/nuts were rusted to the point where they were not removable without damaging them. Some I cleaned up with the wire wheel and others have to be replaced (more replaced than not). Once I got the body loose from the frame I used a home made A-frame (made out of recycled oilfield pipe) and a chain hoist to lift the body off the frame. Then I just rolled the chassis out from under it and lowered the body onto a set of wheel dollies so I could move it around. Hope this helps - just take lots of pics buecasue if you are like me - months later you will be scratching your head saying where did this come from or where does that go. Good luck

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West - the side mount you see in the pic is damaged and is going to take some body work to be "right." If I can dig the other side out of the garage this weekend I will post a pic of it and see what comments I get. My wife's uncle bought the car in 1942 in Oklahoma from an Osage indian who supposedly bought it new. It has really been an experience so far. My goal was to take it to the Olds homecoming in Lansing in 5 years - 3 years left - I might make it. Thanks for the comment.

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Saw post by ply33 re electrolysis rust removal in the Technical forum so I thought I would try it. Made a tank yesterday and soaked the two piece drive shaft. Worked pretty well - still have some clean up to do and paint but the heavy rust is gone. Pretty easy but man that water gets nasty. Here are couple of pics - one showing the drive shaft pre-soak and then after.

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Guest sayhonkmon

This site is great; I didn't realize the information that you guys put out to help one another. Thanks Larry.. I live in Florida and we have loads of rust problems--this will help..

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Larry,

Good friend in High School had one. We loaded 18 people in and on it from downtown back to the school. (3 blocks). Don't know how he could see where he was going. I am restoring a 37 Studebaker Coupe Express that was in similar condition. The 3 years is probably realistic for most of us. Could you post more about the rust electrolysis method that you used. I have some larger parts I would like to try it on. Best, Don

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Don - Check out the Technical forum under "Source for Phosphoric Acid (Rust Removal) and look for ply33's post. He has a link to electrolysis rust removal on a trailer frame. Pretty interesting. I found an article titled "Electrolytic Rust Removal" by Ted Kinsey under the Tech Tips at stovebolt.com that was very helpful.

I used a plastic tub as shown in the picture and cut at 48" piece of black pipe in half to use as an electrode. I cut 2 pieces of 2x4 12 inches long with two notches in one long side to use as a cradle for the pieces of pipe. So in the bottom of the plastic tub I had the 2x4s with the pipe laid in the notches and ran a wire between them. I then ran a wire from the pipe out over the edge of the tub to connect the positive cable from my battery charger. I then filled the tub with 20 gallons of water and added a tablespoon of soda ash per gallon ( I used soda ash from a swimming pool supply house but I think you could probably use baking soda if push comes to shove). Then I suspended the rusty piece over the pipe electrodes (not touching) and attached a wire to it to run over the edge of the tub to be connected to the negative cable on my battery charger. Put the charger on low and let it sit. "Cleaning time for moderately rusted objects is a few hours. Heavily rusted objects can be left overnight." (from Tech Tip article).

I'm sure that some of the other guys here have had experience with the process and could offer some tips but my first try worked pretty well. Good luck.

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Learned something new today - too late as ususal - The propeller shaft has an arrow on it that needs to be lined up with a corresponding mark on the slip joint spline as the units are balanced at the factory for optimum performance. OK - now I need to take it apart and reinstall it - Not the first time I have done something twice. Think I will head over to the AACA Grand Nationals in Topeka tomorrow - ought to be fun and I'm sure there will be lots of neat old cars.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Out of town all last week but managed to get some time in on the Olds this past weekend. I got the drive shaft in and 3 of the 4 running board mounts on. Can't find one plastic spacer to complete the 4th - may have to make something. Upset my better half again - darn wire wheel makes a lot of fine rust dust and I failed to move her VW Turbo Convertible (with the roof down) out of the garage - guess where all of the dust landed - oops!

I did make it to the AACA meet in Topeka - met a lot of nice people and saw some wonderful old cars. I don't think mine will ever look that good.

Also drug a front sidemount fender out of the garage and took some pics - West thought that they may not be original to the car but all I can say is my wife's uncle swears they are. Tried to upload pic but the upload failed - I'll try to get the pics up later.

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OK - I admit the driveshaft and running board supports were not very impressive. Installed these sidemount supports tonight - woo hoo! Still looking for a transmission tailshaft seal - The folks a Fusik gave me a lead I will follow up on tomorrow. The transmission looks really good inside although pretty dirty. The engine and body guys are working on their pieces when they have downtime in the shop so things are moving slowly on those. Some of the body pieces I had fabricated don't fit too well and we are having to remake them. More dollars but its only money - right?

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  • 2 weeks later...

I got a call from S.U.R.&R. today and they have finished the rebuild on my fuel tank sending unit despite its very poor condition. They said it was a challenge but now looks like new and are shipping it to me today. I will post before and after pics when I get it next week. Thanks for the tip Elmo39! I will try to get the tank installed this weekend but I have to block out 4 hours for the Oklahoma State game on Saturday. Yes, I am a glutton for disappointment -

On a more positive note I found another NOS u-joint for the transmission/driveshaft connection. Can't wait to get the engine back and in the chassis.

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I received my rebuilt fuel tank sending unit from S.U.R.&R. (still don't know what that stands for) and as promised here are before and after pics. They did a nice job on a unit in pretty poor condition. Easy to work with - not cheap but what are you gonna do?

And, my Cowboys didn't disappoint (although it was a pretty ugly win) - what could be better than that!

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  • 4 weeks later...

I've been traveling on business a lot the last three weeks so not much going on - but I am piling up parts. Found some spares on ebay sitting in hotel rooms at night - the neighbors probably wonder about all the UPS and FedEx deliveries. :-) I did get the transmission back all cleaned up - pic attached and momma wants her car in the garage for the winter so I put the chassis on wheel dollies and moved it to the middle of the garage. Three vehicles in a two car garage is pretty tight - gotta watch those mirrors backing out for sure.

The body man called last week and after sandblasting discovered severe structural issues caused by rust inside at the base of the B pillars. That is going to have to be cut out with new pieces fabricated. I asked him to send pics but have not received them yet.

Probably won't be much big stuff done on my end as winter is coming on and the garage is unheated. I will spend time this winter working on things that can be done in the basement - maybe restoring the steering wheeel (I've been researching restoration kits) and rebuilding the starter, generator, and may working on the dash and gauges.

Next week though its pheasant hunting - I'm ready to go.....

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  • 4 weeks later...

Just received a call from my body guy and it is not looking good. Apparently, the rust problems are insurmountable without major dollar committment. He recommended that I find another body in better starting shape to save on restoration dollars. With that said, I am in the market for another 38 Olds 4 Door without substantial rust problems. He has a car located in New Mexico but the pics so far look like it is more of the same. I would prefer to spend a little (emphasis on little) more to get something requiring less work. We'll see what the next few days brings.

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  • 3 weeks later...
Here is a '38 two door Olds. I was planning on a restoration on the Olds until I found a '53 Roadmaster to restore. The Olds. is in all orginal condition with just a small amount of rust in the trunk area.

Looks like a neat project. I'm pretty much committed to the 4 door touring sedan and I think I have a car/body located - time will tell. If things don't work out and I have to change body styles I am thinking of going with a coupe. A six wheel straight 8 coupe would be pretty neat. With that said, is your 2 door sedan a trunk back or slant back? - can't tell from the pic.

LJ

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