Using a 2 post car lift on older cars

[Guest oakland]

I posted on the Oakland Pontiac forum, but recieved no results as of yet. The question is can you use a 2 post car lift on older cars like from the 20's. I have a 29 Oakland and planning to get a car lift, but don't know if I should get a 4 post or 2 post. The frame on the Oakland is located close to the sheet metal that goes from the body to the running board and the running boards are a lot lower than the frame. Also the bottom surface of the frame is very narrow. All 2 post lifts that I seen have big round pads to lift the frame. Don't know if there will be enough screw length to clear the low running boards and enough contact area with the frame. Would appreciate any input. Thanks.

[Guest c.johnson]

I would not feel comfortable with a 2 post lift. First as you have already stated, the running boards are lower than the frame. It would be difficult keeping an eye on the lift & the frame as the car moving up or down. They could easily get "hung up" without much notice.

Second, Oaklands are not well known for being well balanced. I've "married" (put the body back on the frame) 2 of them. I can tell you where you think the weight is, isn't necessarily the case.

My 2 cents.

[West Peterson]

If you get a two-post lift, which is a very viable solution, balance is the key. Lift up the car so that the tires come off the floor a couple of inches. Then try rocking the car and see how stable it is. If it looks unsafe, reposition the lift's arms. Most two-post lifts have "extenders" that will help with the frame/running board issue.

[special55]

West is right on the money.

I worked at GM dealer for eleven years and the two post is the lift of choice for most techs. Four post lifts require the addition of slide carages and air jacks to get the wheels off the lift to do any service of brakes etc.

Four post lifts also have their place as they work great for exhaust systems when you need the vehicle in it's normal sitting height to position hangers and pipes.

Regardless of the way you choose to go do your homework. You need to get a certified hoist and not an imported piece of junk. I bought a used lift for a bit less than what a new import hoist would cost. But when I'm standing under several thousand pounds of good ole Detroit iron I never give it a second thought.

Most important is if you have no experience with lifts make sure you make the seller give you a demo and always take your time when setting your pads. West's shake test is the last thing I do evry time before lifting the vehicle over my head.

Be safe and enjoy your lift. You'll wonder how you ever got along without one. Just don't tell your neighbors you have it.

Rich

[HarryJ]

oakland..........I have a two post lift in my shop. I have lifted several vehicles built in the twenties and thirties on it; including my '31 "PA", and '29 "A". I have not lifted my '28 "L" Lincoln on it; however, by utilizing the telescoping arms and the fold up props I can easily lift early cars. The safety suggestions from West and special 55 should be observed plus any of those suggested by the lift manufacturer.

[Mark Shaw]

I like my four post lift for several reasons:

I don't worry about balance.

I can move it if necessary (it came with removable wheels).

I can open car doors without hitting a post.

I park two cars under one on the lift (cardboard works for oil shield).

I didn't have to drill holes in my floor (radiant heat system).

Overall it was less $ than a two post system.

[Guest Sheldon Rody]

My lift has verticle extensions that fit on the lift pads to come in contact with the frame. This works great for cars with running boards and pick ups

[Guest simplyconnected]

Is it so hard to find the centerpoint? You don't need a lift to find it, and you only have to be 'close' not dead-on. Every time I hoist a car high, I use a tall jackstand under the front bumper and another under the rear. The hoist latches onto cam-locks, so it can't come down and with the jackstands, the car is solid.

I used my posts to mount receptacles (one for my 30-amp/230-volt MIG welder, and both sides have a 115-volt duplex, one for my mounted flourescent 4' light plug, and one spare for my drill motor, trouble light etc.) I figured, since I'm running power anyway, might as well throw a few extra wires in for my working tools. Now, I don't need long extension cords because everything is 'right there'.

Good luck trying to find a hoist made in the USA. They used to be made here, now (like everything else) NONE of them are. It's a liability thing, I think. Like children's toys with lead paint, you have to go to the orient to sue.