Rear Brake Upgrade

[William Rule]

One push emergency brake.

No Rattle.

Step 1: Bolt on 1998 Buick Park Avenue rear brakes-----mounts calipers and rotors! Reverse side(R to L and L to R)

a. My set came from a salvage yard for $50.

b. Bleed brakes and adjust cable lever as per

Reatta factory manual.

Step 2: Now the fun begins!

a. Remove cable levers-----1/2 inch nut, use a puller.

b. Remove cable housing mounts.

c. Modify cable holders and levers as shown in

pictures.

[D-a-n-i-e-l]

Great info It wil save me in my search for the rear upgrade, But I have a few questions that I will post to you shortly.

[William Rule]

NO RATTLE----much better design. No more pumpen' the PARK [only] brake. You get a REAL EMERGENCY brake.

[Guest MauiWowee]

What is the diameter of the rotor please?

[William Rule]

Thank you for your interest. I am very satisfied with this conversion. I've tested [abused] the setup for 5,000 and it's quite foolproof. Will lock-up the back brakes [55MPH] with ONE hard push of pedal----stops straight----puts big flat spots on the tires and makes lots of smoke. I didn't measure the Park Avenue rotors. Look at third picture. [Reatta rotor on lugs] Looks to be maybe two inches larger. The 15 inch Reatta wheel fits fine. I will measure the next time I pull a wheel, but in the mean time you could ask a dealer---1998 Park Ave.

[Guest EDBS0]

'98 11.07 in. Outer Diameter

'89 10.02 in. Outer Diameter

[Roadster90]

Looks very interesting - especially the modification resulting in no brake rattle. Can this mod be performed just as a bolt up replacement without modifying the brake cable (I can see something different in the pictures, but can't figure out exactly what was done)?

Thanks

[Ronnie]

Sounds like a great upgrade. When all the details clear, and questions answered about the changeover, I would like to add the information from this thread to my website as a tutorial if there is no objection.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Will lock-up the back brakes [55MPH] with ONE hard push of pedal----stops straight----puts big flat spots on the tires and makes lots of smoke.</div></div>I assume you are talking about when the parking brake pedal is applied. How does it do in a panic stop with the regular brake pedal? Does it slide the rear brakes in that situation?

[Guest Greg Ross]

Nice work,

Looks like the right solution to the Brake Rattle issue, we just had to wait the 20 years for GM to re-engineer. Well 10 I guess technically!

What all else do you'all do out there in Colarado?

[jonlabree]

Are you saying, reverse the actuating arms?

[Guest steakneggs]

You need to be more specific as to what mods to the p/b cable mounts were required. Steak

[William Rule]

My Reattas {all 1989] have working ABS brakes so they will not "smoke" the brakes.

This is why I built this system!!! Sooner or later a reatta pilot is gunna need an EMERGENCY brake. In testing----- I bungeed the brake release handle up and drove from Paonia, Colorado to Colorado Springs [250 miles] and did not touch the Reatta ABS system. I put the car in nutral and coasted down Hiway 50's Monarch pass [10,000 ft to 6,000 in 7 miles] using only the "NEW" emergency brake. Warm but not hot at bottom. But yes, the system works fine with the Reatta ABS. The entire conversion took about a half day. I used the Reatta brake cable as is. I could have used the Reatta cable holders by bending them about 80 degrees and brazing on a one inch by one inch location plate. I chose to cut the Park Ave holders in two and add 4 inches. The levers were cut off----moved a few degree and gas welded in place. Not rocket science---just a lever pulled by a cable.

[William Rule]

What else? 1947 chevy coupe streetrod, 1960 Alfa Romeo sprint coupe with 1962 Al Buick 215 and 5 speed, 1953 Indian Chief, 1940 Indian factory racer, 1970 Piper Cherokee, 1946 Cessna 120, 2,100 pound Reatta streetrod, pristine Reatta coupe--------

[Rawja]

2,100 pound Reatta streetrod

!?!?!?!?!?!?!?

[William Rule]

RATTEA the BAD:

Removed all stuff it didn't need to drive--1,250 pounds of fat. Totally gutted of ALL bells and whistles, seats, glass, AC, heater, muffler, Cat, power everything, wipers, headlight guts, No interior {fixed plastic seats}[fixed plexiglas windows], gutted and welded doors...Work in progress, but makes me think in the fourteens!?! A bit low on the priority list, but I'll post some pictures after I work through this brake thing. I build things....not write about them. I'm out of my element.

[juddev]

Great post!

[William Rule]

NIC WALKER:

If I understand your question, the answer is YES. The '98 Buick brakes bolt on with no mods [sTEP ONE]-----they will not rattle {thank you, Buick]------The car will stop just fine. You can drive the auto. BUT the park brake won't work. If I don't understand your question, the answer is NO. I did no mods to the '98 calipers, mounts or pads---{Thank you, Buick], I just bolted them on!! Maybe the communication problem here is my original post: step 2 part "c." My mechanical skills exceed my verbal skills. I can cut the mounts and levers apart and weld them back together faster than I can write about the process. I can show you what I did, but I can't show you how to weld. Do you know how to overcome this problem?????????

[jonlabree]

I agree with Steaknegs.

Specifics

1- Did you reverse the actuating arm on the calipers??

2- You did extend the cable brackets, we see that in the pictures.

3- Did you also reverse the calipers L to R and R to L??

4- Why did you need to make the cable brackets so long?

I think you only need a small throw to activate the parking Brake.

[William Rule]

63 Viking:

1. Yes 2.Yes 3.Yes 4. I added about 4 inches to the cable holders so I could use [and adjust] the Reatta cable. I believe if you were to use the 98 cable [from under drivers seat back] you would not have to cut and weld----just reshape mounts to correct angle. Or you could shorten the Reatta cable [about 8 inches]. Or you could use the Reatta cable holders by reshaping with a hammer. Or-------??????? There are many ways to skin this cat. Be creative, I'm sure you can improve my attempt! BUT UNDERSTAND-----this upgrade is vast improvement over the original Reatta design----Safety and function. The conversion is so easy I do not understand why you Reatta folks have not done it before!!!!!! I converted my Reatta in a day and that included a trip to the salvage yard. I spent $50.

[William Rule]

When you spot a cop and your Reatta's way over the speed limit------NO PROBLEM!!!!! Just a gentle push on the "NEW" emergency brake. NO brake lights!!!!NO nosedive!!!!!!!Don't push too hard cuz the blue smoke will call the cop faster than 911.

[Ronnie]

I don't want to be negative about the job you have done. I really like it. But it would seem to me if the rear now has that much more stopping power that the rear brakes would be trying to slide during normal stopping and the ABS would need to activate each time you stopped quickly under normal driving conditions. That might not hurt a thing but if the ABS fails and the rear brakes start sliding and smoking it could be a dangerous situation. Maybe adding larger brakes to the front like the Olds Aurora brakes would balance the system out. Doing that would require 16" wheels however.

Again I will say I believe a mismatched system, like you currently have, needs an adjustable proportioning valve for the fine tuning the rear brakes stopping power.

Without ABS (or in the event ABS malfunctions or fails to activate for some reason) the rear brakes should lock just before the front brakes but they should not be smoking the tires before the front brakes lock.

[Guest spyhunter2k]

So this turns the parking brake we currently have into an emergency brake only, correct? The pedal will not lock into position anymore and so will not function anymore as a parking brake?

I honestly have never thought of which one I would prefer or need more...

[William Rule]

Spyhunter2K: NO---The park brake works as normal. You just don't have to "pump" it. Just one push. You get both for the price of one.

Ronnie: The ABS system does not know when the park brake is pressed, so no problem. The back brakes do very little work when stopping a Reatta. The 98 rotor is only a bit larger. The ABS system isn't smart enough to tell the difference. The car stops straight from 100 MPH---HANDS OFF. I can tell no difference in brakes.

[William Rule]

Ronnie: This conversion does not effect the Reatta ABS system in any way. It does not add much of stopping power or distance. I have a pristine Reatta {8,000 miles]. The modified Reatta stops the same as the near new Reatta from any speed. I can tell no difference at all.----------Just no rattle. The mods [cutting and welding] are to the park brake. The park brake has nothing to do with ABS brake system---they are two separate things. The Reatta has two brake pedals. The pedal on the right is for the ABS brake and won't [if working] lock the brakes {"smoke the tires"] The pedal on the left is for the park brake and will "smoke" the tires modified or not.

[Guest Stormin]

Thanks for this information. I will be doing the front Camaro upgrade and was hoping for something to cure this rear problem. Thanks again..Norm

[Barney Eaton]

Good article and discussion, I like this type of information and it appears it works with 15" original wheels.

I did a little searching on the Auto Zone site and found that the rear calipers for 1997,1998, and 1999 are the same on the Park Avenue and LeSabre, also the Riviera but you don't see many of those in wrecking yards.

Prior to 1997, the big Buick sedans had rear drums and by 2000 they had made a design change on the rears.

[Guest steakneggs]

I can't tell from the pics how the p/b functions. I take it that it's different from the stock setup that pushes on the caliper piston with a screw-type device that is prone to not readjusting itself. The newer unit looks like it has a cam that pushes on something on the outside. That alone is a major improvement. Steak

[gr8scott]

<span style="font-style: italic">When you spot a cop and your Reatta's way over the speed limit</span>

We are talking about a <span style="font-weight: bold">Reatta</span> aren't we? :-)?

[padgett]

Have said before, the Reatta is not slow, just the very flat torque curve makes it feel that way, a series II 3800 makes less than 10% more torque, it just peaks at a higher RPM (the "L" has a lot more intake area, a bit better exhaust, and a better cam but doesn't really make a difference below 4000 rpm).

It is very easy to get a lot over the double nickel in not much time, last time I checked a 0-60 in my 88, it was under 9 seconds. (G-Tech Pro)

[D-a-n-i-e-l]

I still like the supercharged option.

[jonlabree]

Daniel, You really should try the Supercharger with the Nitrous and Water/Alcohol injection. Then you will need the BIG brakes.

I had it on a Dyno and you won't believe the output.

[D-a-n-i-e-l]

I am still just a poor soldier. May be in a few years.

[William Rule]

If you want a fast Reatta------STRIP OFF ALL THE FAT. Want to race me???

[jonlabree]

No, I would not want to embarrass you.

[William Rule]

want to bet?

[D-a-n-i-e-l]

RulesReatta,

Jon is running a impressive set up. So without (major) mods I would not even think about it, but on the other hand I have not seen anything posted by you.

And now we return to our show, and the original post.

[William Rule]

OH,---I'm impressed. Power to weight ratio, Sir!

[jonlabree]

7.03 lbs

[William Rule]

I shake, I quake---I'm maybe 13.5 so [on paper] I'm beat [Not the first time]. We are talken' REATTA aren't we? I see no way you can put over 450 hp on the ground with a FWD Reatta.{?} I know for sure I can't.

[padgett]

The cheapest way to go fast with a Reatta is to buy a Fiero (many buys out there right now) and mod it. Keep the Reatta for comfortable cruising.

It is surprising how many here also have Fieros, I recently acquired an 86 GT.