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'55 Dynaflow Cooler


apb

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Did all '55 Buick dynaflos have a cooler? I have just purchased a 55 Special and it does not have a cooler but seems to be plumbed for one. The guy who sold it claims that not all dynaflows came with coolers so he should not have to supply one.

Can anyone confirm that?

Also where might I find one of these things? Can I substitute an aftermarket air / fluid cooler?

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Guest imported_JPIndusi

Dynaflows definitely had oil coolers. In 1955 and earlier they used heater hoses off the water pump to take cool water from bottom of the radiator tank and circulated it to a heat exchanger on the rear of the transmission. I think there was an extra hose nipple on the bottom of the radiator tank to handle the heater/defroster hot water circuit. I do not know for sure, until I look it up, when the crossover to hydraulic lines to the radiator came into use and the heater hoses were eliminated.

Joe, BCA 33493

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If you are not concerned with originality, get an aftermarket cooler which will cool much better. The original cooler was barely adequate in normal driving, but was ineffective if driving in mountains or towing.

I love my Buicks but this was a peace-poor design: the hottest water in the engine was directed to the 'cooler' instead of the coolest water from the bottom of the tank on later models. You can also eliminate about 20' of heater hose. If you need the direction of flow of the transmission fluid it goes from the front of the transmission thru the cooler to the back of the transmission.

Willie

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Well after getting a stock cooler I'm rethinking what to do. I have heard that the coolers tend to fail and really make a mess as the water gets into the trans. I have scrounged parts from one such trans and heard someone else describe the mess.

It really doesn't take much to put a conduction cooler on the frame rail which I hear works fine.

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Archie--I would not condem the stock cooler because of fear that water will contaminate the trans fluid...if a leak occurred it would be the other way around. The trans fluid is in excess of 15psi and would contaminate the water if there was a leak...which I have never seen.

Ken--Hose clams are fine, just use heavier tubing made for trans fluid.

Willie

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Fluid would go both ways, I think, in the event of a leak. Oil woud get into the water when the car is running due to higher pressure in the trans. Water would get in the trans oil when the car is not running, since the radiator keeps some pressure as it cools down and the trans is not turning.

All of which is not to scare you from using the stock one. At least having looked over my '54 and used the stock one for years and years, it seems like a very sturdy unit. And I have never heard of one fail. You can always have it tested at a radiator shop to be sure.

Maybe the stock one is not so effective, though. My plans are to run the fluid through a long aluminum cooler first - the kind constructed from a single tube with inner and outer fins to take away excessive heat, and mounted inside and down the length of the left frame rail, which sould get enough air circulation while the car is under way. Then through the stock cooler to give it some temperature stability. The engine coolant may even warm it back up again in cooler conditions, but gives it some stability.

As far as I understand it, you can be too cool, or too hot. The trans and the oil both like a constant temp in the middle, somewhere in the low 200's.

Since the torq coverter does so much work on a Dynaflow, I think added cooling is a good idea, especially on long grades and bad traffic. Hopefully my plan will work...

Happy wrenching,

Doug Cook

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  • 2 weeks later...

Doug,

That explination would seem to validate what I have seen and heard. I scavaged parts from a trans that was filled with fluid turned to pudding. I believe this was caused by water contamination. I also corresponded with a poster on another board who had the same problem.

I think your point about too cool is also correct. I was considering using a thermostat bypass on the cooler to keep it from being too cool.

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  • 3 years later...
I used one similar to THIS and seems to work well, but a big one in front of the radiator would be better. Just Google or Ebay 'transmission cooler'.

Willie

OldTank,

I saw on an earlier post that you mentioned having used a different trans cooler on your car. I am having trouble with the one in my 53 super and was wondering what you used. how is it hooked up and how is it performing for you? I am not sure if my hydromatic is similar to yours or not. If you have pictures that would be outstanding. If you don't might I suggest you post some so any one else with the same issue could gain from you efforts. Thanks in advance<o:p></o:p>

Any help is appreciated.<o:p></o:p>

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I used a Derale 15830 cooler mounted at the junction of the drivers side frame and the the X frame. It is mounted with the fins down and the motor above. The motor is wired to a toggle switch that is activated on an 'as needed' basis. The fan is wired to pull through the fins. No pictures at this time.

Willie

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It sounds like a nice set up. I am guessing that you mounted under the car to keep the stock appearance or was it easier being closer to the trans? After hearing how you have yours mounted I might go the same route. How has it performed for you so far ? how many miles since you installed it?

here is a pic of a hard to find NOS cooler that a considerate fellow Buick owner sent me.

post-80012-143138733635_thumb.jpg

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It sounds like a nice set up. I am guessing that you mounted under the car to keep the stock appearance or was it easier being closer to the trans? After hearing how you have yours mounted I might go the same route. How has it performed for you so far ? how many miles since you installed it?

here is a pic of a hard to find NOS cooler that a considerate fellow Buick owner sent me.

You're right about stock appearance. With the Derale in series with the stock cooler it works well for 30,000 miles. The reason I installed it in the first place is after R&R that @#$*&^% heavy dynaflow 4 times I still had a weak pump with low pressures when it got hot (thin fluid?). It had some disconcerting chatter on take-off and when driving in the mountains. This is just a patch that seems to work...another teardown of the dynaflow would probably solve permanently.

That NOS stock cooler is probably all you need if your tranny is in good shape.

Willie

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On the 53 Specials the transmission cooler gets coolant from two nipples on the water pump. The pump draws from the bottom of the radiator so it should be cooler water. I have used a laser pointer temperature probe and can see the difference in temperature from the hose going to the cooler and the return hose.

I agree that this system might have been of less than excellent design but think of how many of these cars gave good service over all the years they were in use.

Joe, BCA 33493

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old-tank

Did you remove the old cooler completely? Did you have to modify the existing outlet and intake lines off of the trans to attach the new cooler lines? The reason I ask is because if you look at the picture I posted of the 53 Buick trans cooler, the line connection points on the stubs look very odd to me. I am trying to picture what the conection lines at the trans might look like. I have not yet removed mine and don't want to until I find a viable replacement.

You mentioned that you turn the fan on when necessary. Does that mean like in slow moving city traffic, when the cooler is not getting the necessary air flow?

Sorry for all the long drawn out questions but, I am trying to get as much info as I can.

The reason I want to relace my cooler is because it is starting to deteriorate and I don't want to risk burning up my trans. Some one has patched it on the outside so I am sure the inside is some what deteriorated as well.

The OEM coolers are not easy to find. So far the sole NOS unit that I did find was QUITE esspensive. I am not bothered buy deviating from the original set up as long as it funtions as well or better than the original.

Thanks for your time

Rick

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My setup is in series, meaning in addition to the stock cooler. If you use the Derale as a sole cooler, run the fan constantly unless you rig a sensor to turn it on when a certain temperature is reached. If you are not using the stock cooler, just put pipe plugs in the timing cover where the hoses attach. Those are just flare fittings on the cooler/lines...it will be clear when you start working on it.

Willie

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well, lets see.... You're right a NOS cooler would be expensie. I was just thinkng tho',,, by the time you invest in a generic over the counter one, and the fitting modifications, you would be well on the way to paying for a more expensive NOS one. I have an original OEM NOS cooler that I have been sitting on, waiting for purchase by a Skylark owner. You can have it for $300l.00 Certainly not cheap, but....

Bill

Edited by Madden
more info (see edit history)
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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 6 years later...

The other day I saw a Toyota Prius Hybrid in the salvage yard and it had a small radiator for cooling the battries.....it would have been ideal for this application,  it had fitting the size of heater hose,  was about 24 inches X 4 x 1

I did not see the photo of the stock unit in post #21 before I did the post above.

If you only drive your car where it seldom freezes,  you can use a fluid to air cooler (if you can go non-stock)   think about the temps....cooling the transmission with radiator water will never cool the transmission

below something like 160 (or whatever thermostat you are running)   Heat kills transmissions,  so why not go to fluid (transmission) to air......even if the outside air is 100 degrees that is 60 degrees cooler than the radiator.

If your car is an everyday driver and you live where it is below freezing, then you need something to heat the transmission fluid sooner....so then use the radiator water to do that, otherwise you do not need to use radiator water to cool the transmission on any car, even newer ones.

FluidChart.jpg

Edited by Barney Eaton (see edit history)
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