1929 Hupmobile project

[HarryJ]

Dean...I am really enjoying looking over your shoulder as you restore your Hup. This is quite an education I am getting! The clutch modification is a great solution to your problem! By the way, I am a believer in vacuum tanks; I don't think you would get vapor lock using one of these units. If the fuel boils in the line the vapor will go up the line to the tank and to atmosphere; and the column of fuel will push gas to the carb. A lot of people have converted there cars to electric pumps. Also, I will mention modern replacement wires are just plastic covered wires that have been run through a braiding machine to cover them with cotton braid in the correct color patterns. Keep the posts coming ...your posts are to the true spirit of the "current restorations" forum.

[1929Chrysler]

I agree with Harry on the vacumm canister. I don't think you would get vapor lock either. Just go back and look at my posts where I thought I had vapor lock problems. My fuel lines run right next to the exhaust manifold and because of my current radiator problem my car runs extremely hot. Turns out it wasn't vaporlock and the old canister runs just like she was designed to do!

But like you said... It's your car. Do what you want.

Dan

[1940_Buick]

Just a comment on vaccum canisters. There are times when folks convert to electric fuel pumps, and then end up with carb trouble because the original carbs aren't designed to hold back pressure from a pump, just gravity.

I've converted never had trouble with my vaccum canister, and they're easy to rebuild and repair.

[huptoy]

I use an electric fuel pump on my 6 cyl Hupmobile and, for looks, direct the gas through the vacuum pump shell. Use a electric pump that is variable or can be reduced to 1 to 3 pounds. Also a flow reducer will work. Too much flow pressure will cause problems in the Carb.

We had a member who restored a 1928 Model M 8 cyl Hupmobile over 30 years ago and used the vacuum fuel pump. Over the years, he had problems with the pump sporadically not working. He would drain gas from the gas tank and prime the vacuum can and usually it would start working. By tearing it down and reassembling the vacuum pump it would usually fix the problem. However, several times he had to trailer the car home. Three summers ago, his wife said no more being stranded on the road and he installed an electric fuel pump and the problem stopped. He left the vacuum tank hooked up to look like it was working. Just remove the insides and block the overflow tube. Additionally, he restored a 1928 Model A Roadster 18 years ago and had the same problem with the same fix.

[Guest Dean_H.]

Thanks for the comments everyone. I always value others advise. I think I'll leave the electric pump, since it's already done. I'm not worried about the carburetor leaking because my original is all cracked up (pot metal). I'm going to replace it with a more modern unit. My vacuum canister is mint condition. I intend to mount and plumb it, but not connect it into the fuel system. I'll put preservation oil in it, so it'll be ready to use if I change my mind. Also, I don't trust electric pumps, I've seen several quit working. Having the vacuum system ready to connect up will give me peace of mind.

I've been swamped with other work lately and haven't been able to do a lot on the Hupmobile. I broke away for a couple hours last night and installed the flywheel, clutch and transmission.

[Guest Dean_H.]

Extra points to anyone who can find the transmission repair weld.

[Guest Dean_H.]

I managed to get the driveline in yesterday. The original drive line was bent and one U joint was worn out. I acquired another drive line and painted it, but needed to fix the U joint.

In this first picture you can see the worn out pin. A Cummins head bolt was the toughest material I could find around the shop. I machined it to size and cut off the ends.

The fit was a little tight, I had to use a press.

Here it is after installation, The chassis is starting to look complete. I'm close to being ready for the body, but I want to do some body work on it first.

[Guest Dean_H.]

It's been a while since I last posted progress. Truth is, lately, I've had a busy schedule and haven't done a lot on my project. I do tinker with it whenever I can and managed to get a few small items done.

I made an adapter to hold a modern thermostat. I couldn't readily locate an original, got this 160 deg. thermostat at the local auto parts store.

The threads ended up being left hand on the brass retainer nut. I'm certainly not a machine pro and had the lathe feed in reverse when I made the threads. Since I might be the next guy to change the thermostat, I stamped "left hand threads" on it.

Cleaning up the distributor, it's in 'like new' condition.

I was surprised to see this auto advance in a distributor that also has a mechanical advance lever.

I tried to run solvent through the oil filter to clean it, and use it as is. After hours of flushing and still seeing sludge, I decided to cut it open.

I like the original look of this oil filter. My plan is to a conceal a modern screw-on filter inside the canister. I brazed on an adapter to hold the new filter.

Here is the bottom of my adapter, where the modern filter screws onto. The original by-pass, on top of the canister, will still function. This is far as I've gone, I still need to work out the details on this

[HarryJ]

Dean, I was wondering what the guts of these early filters looked like. If you don't mind keep us posted in this restoration/re-engineer of the oil filter. By the way, the Southern Calif. Region CCCA reproduces the decal that goes on the filter.

[Guest Dean_H.]

Thanks for the decal tip Harry, I'll get one of those. The original filter basically consist of a large spring wrapped with a fabric, like cheesecloth.

I fiddled around with the oil filter yesterday and pretty much have it finished. First, I riveted a piece of aluminum sheet metal around the top section.

Here it is with the new filter installed.

To change the filter I'll need to disconnect the lines and slide it out. Although it doesn't look exactly original, I'm satisfied.

[HarryJ]

Nice job Dean! You are very good at re-engineering things.

[Guest Dean_H.]

Thanks Harry.

I've been tinkering with an old carburetor from the junk pile in the back of my shop. I think this came off a 1930s tractor. It turned out to be in decent shape when I disassembled it. It's a little heavy being cast iron, but I like the way it looks.

I had to modify the throttle and choke levers, otherwise it fit perfect. I also added a petcock valve to make it easier to drain the gas. I might switch back to the plug because the valve looks a little dorky.

I got started on the body. With it raised, I was able to get under to clean and sand any metal on the bottom. The fork lift mast is chained for safety.

[Guest Dean_H.]

I pushed the car outside and started the engine today. It sure runs good, sounds good too. I turned the idle down real slow, could almost count the fan blades. These long stoke engines are too cool. I called the wife out so she could also hear it run. She just asked if the horn would work... Doh! should have installed wires to the horn. In a couple minutes of running, it became pretty warm, so I re-torqued the head bolts.

[Guest Dean_H.]

My new tires arrived a few days ago. I ordered these from Lucas @ $125 each. Saved a few bucks by not going for the whitewalls. I stopped working on the body and decided to get my wheels done. Unfortunately my hubcaps are beat up pretty bad. They were originally unpainted aluminum but they'll need painting after I attempt to staighten them. Evidently these were the only hubcaps of this type Hupp made. I've searched over a year for some caps like these - no luck. Every other hub cap is for sale - If you have a one off Doble steam car, no problemo, four hubcaps in mint condition available.

Here's a before pic of one

After I beat it to death

Spinning one on the lathe to see if it wobbles

New tires look great. My old tires are a few sizes too skinny (Ford Model A tires).

[keiser31]

Man, you really do some great work.

[1929Chrysler]

Hi Dean, I love watching this car come together. You're really doing a nice job! What all do you plan on doing to the body?? I wish I had half your skills.

Not that I'm getting nosey or anything.. OK... I am getting nosey. Do you mind sharing how much money you have in the project so far and how much you think you'll have in when it's all finished?

Dan

[Durant Mike]

No matter what he's spent, he's saved a ton by doing most of the work himself, especially the machinist work. He's doing a great job and is an inspiration to all of us who are restoring our cars!

[Guest Dean_H.]

Thanks for the kind words. The body has some bad wood that needs to be replaced. I'll probably just replace the rotten areas and leave the rest. There's a few dents that will need fixing, and of course it needs new paint. I dislike any of this work so progress may slow down. I'm not a pro car restorer, so some of the things I do may be a little unorthodox. Basically, I'm just trying to get a car that will be fairly reliable to drive around town. I paid 6K for the car and will likely have about that same amount into my restoration.

I discovered an odd problem on the car over the last week or so. I noticed the carb would leak a small amount of gas in the late afternoon, if I ran the engine in the morning. I put a gauge on the gas line and noticed my pump puts out about 7 lbs. The problem is that the pump has a check valve and the pressure stays at 7 lbs even after I turn it off. As the gas in the line warms up during the day the psi climbs to 10+ and pushes through the carb.

To fix the problem, I put a bypass on the line and changed the fuel filter to accommodate it. I adjusted the needle valve to let a small amount of gas bypass to the suction side of the pump. When I turn off the pump it now bleeds to zero. The modification lowered the pressure to five lbs which seems fine.

It looks a little whacky but no one will see it under the car.

[Guest Dean_H.]

I used a little body filler on the hubcaps.

I finished a couple of the rims in the original color. In anticipation of needed pin stipes, I recently bought a pin striping painter tool off eBay. Clamped a piece of wood on the lathe as a guide and held the tool against it. Then just spin the wheel and.. 'voila' instant pin stripe.

[Guest Dean_H.]

Body work is a slow process, I finally finished some of the wheels. Except for the hubcaps, these were the original colors as best as I could tell. I found a color called 'Sterling silver' for the hubcaps.

The dog gives stamp of approval (although it cost me a dog treat).

[HarryJ]

Dean...You're doing the car justice.

[Guest Dean_H.]

Since I intend to drive the car, I decided to install one of those aftermarket air filters from Kragens Auto Parts. It doesn't look original, but it should help the longevity of the motor.

Making an adapter..

After instalation. The exhaust pipe is only about two inches away, so I put a heat deflector plate on it.

I bought some exhaust elbows from Autozone and welded up a tail pipe. A muffler shop could have bent it from one piece, but I've found it unpleasant dealing with them in the past.

[JFranklin]

Hi, I have been watching your progress with much interest as I own a 1928 Hupmobile model A. your restoration is an inspiration. I have a question. What size tires are you using? Thank you.

[Guest Dean_H.]

Hi JFranklin,

I would have expected you'd own a Franklin, with your name and all. Congrats on the Hupmobile, it's a fine car. The original tire size for the 1929 Model A is 5.50 X 19 and that is the size I'm using. The chassis looks a lot better since I changed out the 4.75s that were on it.

Here's a pic with the size visible

[Guest Dean_H.]

There was some bad wood on the body that needed replacing. I hate working with wood and have been doing everything else trying to avoid this part of the project. A few days ago I bit the bullet and got started on it.

Getting the body in the air where it's easier to work on, also put some braces on it to hold dimensions while I remove wood.

The old wood is crumbling at the front body mount.

There was two one inch boards sandwiched together. Really wasn't that hard to get them out.

With the new boards cut to dimensions, I put some linseed oil on.

And finished, turned out to be easier than I thought.

After the nasty wood work, I was looking for something more fun. Installed the radiator and grille shell. The chassis is starting to look so good, I almost don't want to bother with the body.

[keiser31]

This may sound like an odd request, but could you possibly post a better photo of the lower window molding(the part where you rest your arm when you drive)? It looks like the same profile of a piece that I have been looking for on my '31 Dodge. If it is, maybe the piece from a Hupp coupe would fit my car.

[HarryJ]

Dean...Let me suggest you find a friend with a good woodworking shop. Working with wood is just as easy as working with metal. You could easily make the replacement wood.

[Guest Dean_H.]

Here's the arm rest pic

Harry, you're right it doesn't look too hard to replace the wood. I think my car is easier than most. I was tempted to replace it all, but I'm in a hurry to finish. There's only a couple places where it's rotted, the rest is pretty solid. The other piece I need to replace is above the wind shield. Once I finish the under side, I'll lower it down to get that one.

Today I sanded and cleaned the floor wood and then used a windex spray bottle to apply linseed oil.

[HarryJ]

Dean...looks good...Hint, there are several epoxy products out there you can soak in punky or slightly rotted wood. This may save you the time on reproducing some parts.

[keiser31]

Dean H.: Thanks so much for posting the door photo, but what I really need to see is the interior shot of the lower window trim. The piece that is attached to the inside of the door at the bottom of the window. Thanks, John

[JFranklin]

Dean, In your photo I can see how your body is held in the air at the rear but can not make out the frount conection. is the angle iron I see bolted to the hinge pins? Also when the sill was removed what held the body from sagging and twisting while suspended? I think this is a task that I will be doing to my Hupp in the future.

[1929Chrysler]

Dean, It's great to see photos of what you're doing to the body. Any problems you encountered along with as many detailed pictures would be much appreciated as I will be doing the same to my car. This would be great information to have.

Thank You

Dan

[Guest Dean_H.]

Keiser31, hope this pic helps.

JFranklin, Here is a different angle of the body in the air. It's a little dangerous looking, but I couldn't think of another way to replace that lower wood. The body did not sag at all. The angle iron brace is indeed bolted to the door hinges. The other brace is bolted to the cowl and there's a deck screw at the other end into wood. With the overhang on the rear, there wasn't much weight on the front chain.

I originally bolted the front chain to the firewall but had to move it to the sides when I worked on the firewall. In this picture the chains are bolted to a hole that is there for the spare tire brace.

The original plywood on the inside of the firewall was in poor condition. This is the new board I cut, just before installation.

With the under side done, I lowered the body down.

I removed the windshield, visor and some front metal to expose top wood. The wood is rotted out on the left side of the photo. After looking at this pic I realized the most important tool on theses old bodies is a screwdriver - lots of screws.

[Guest Tracey Williams]

Hello all my name is Tracey Williams & I come from the land down under Australia. I have recently purchased a Series M straight 8 Hupmobile Sedan, restoration will start this summer.

Nice to see your work, congratulations on your efforts so far. I look forward to progressive pictures.

[keiser31]

Dean_H.: Thanks so much for posting the window trim photo. That is exactly what I needed to see. The lower trim molding looks like almost the same as my 1931 Dodge piece. I have been tracking this restoration and am wondering....what is the time period in which all of this work was done? Is this going on as we speak or were some of these old restoration photos? It seems to be moving along faster than any restoration I have seen in the past. I do want to thank you for using this site and inspiring me to get off my butt and work on my '31. Thank you! Since I first saw this restoration progress, I have removed the floor boards, drive shaft, transmission and clutch from my car and now feel very confident that I can fix it myself. This is really what the clubs and hobby is about...INSPIRATION from each other to keep on doing what we do.

[Guest Dean_H.]

Tracey, congrats on the model M, a straight 8 is very cool.

keiser31, Good luck in finding the part you need. This work is being done in real time, each post is progress that was done sometimes that day but not more than a week prior. I'm unemployed and have more time than most, unfortunately I'm running dangerously short of cash and need to get a job soon. I want to get the body on the frame in the next week or so, and then I'll need to go to work (real work). Progress will likely drop off in the next month.

You certainly can do it yourself, if I can do it, anyone can. Hopefully this thread is an inspiration to others, but I'm posting progress for my own reasons. This forum keeps me motivated, if I stop, everyone will say Dean's a quitter. I sort of hosed myself here (on purpose) work or look bad, Whatever it takes to finish.

[1929Chrysler]

With a resume like this you certainly won't be unemployed for long. You are quite talented with obviously quite a bit of knowledge. Good luck to you!

Dan

[TexRiv_63]

Dean,

You are doing a great job, I thought you were a professional restorer when this string started! I'm lucky if I can spend one day a week on my Pierce. Keep up the good work and good luck with your job search.

[Guest Dean_H.]

Thanks guys, I'm sure I won't have much trouble finding work. I haven't been looking because I wanted to finish my car. I'll have to start getting serious, the housing market crash hurt my prospects. I might have to change careers... again.

I took apart the dash. The main bezel is in nice shape and so is the speedo, but the rest of the gauges are not readable and the water temp tube is cut/broken. I haven't quite figured out what to do here. I started by painting the backing plate white. It was already white but had some surface rust coming through.

A close up of the backing plate shows some modification where the ignition goes. I remember someone mentioned it should have a 'pop out ignition'. Evidently it was replaced at some point.

The speedometer glass was broken. I picked up a piece of glass and a glass cutter from Home Depot. I read the basic instructions on how to cut glass, and surprisingly to me, it worked.

[Guest Dean_H.]

The missus noticed me struggling with the guages, and offered to help out. She recreated the gauge faces on her computer. We printed them out on regular paper and they look pretty good. She's going to pick up some label paper.

I stripped the paint off the body with paint remover. There was a scrape on the driver-side rear that I used some Bondo (gasp!) yes Bondo, to fix. Its a very thin layer. There was a couple other dings I fixed and a few (old) small dents that had been filled with lead. But overall the body is quite minty.

I cleaned up the inside as well. There's some surface rust on the floor I still need to get.