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$25 electronic ignition conversion.


Guest PackardV8

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Guest imported_PackardV8

I have the module kit mounted INside of the car hanging under the dash next to an electric oil pressure gauge. The wires to gauge are seperated from the wires to the module. A dedicated ground wire running from the heatsink and thru the firewall to the engine. All electrical terminals are soldered and shrink tube sleeved. Out at the engine the plug wires are at least 1/2 inch away from any module wires.

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Guest imported_PackardV8

I'm beginning to wonder if hte module is bad. I bought it NEW from O'reillies. It's NOT like i havn't bought new ones before that weren't bad. How do i test the resistors and diodes to see if they are bad???

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Guest imported_Speedster

The voltage levels you were getting at the module pins indicates that the resistor and zener-diode, in regulator-circuit, are working properly, to check the current limiting resistor (330.ohm) use an ohm-meter to check for proper resistance value.

Did you try a HEI coil?

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Guest imported_PackardV8

Havn't tried the GM HEI coil yet. I need to transfer the $25 e-ign system over to my test block or another engine. I had to revert the Packard back to standard ignition so i can drive it. Hopefully i can start more diagnosis on this problem tuesday and test the GM Hei coil at that time.

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  • 1 month later...
Guest imported_PackardV8

This guy got a Ford unit to work on a 6v indian. Here is one of his replies:

"hi i chose the ford as they are still easily available

and a friend had one kicking about

also i liked the idea that it would work on the standard points setup

without having to make an extra circuit and was prepared to try it on

6 volts do you have any observations on this module i would be

glad to hear them as i am not technical but understand the principle

fairly well."

See http://www.gofastforless.com/ignition/tfi.htm

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Guest imported_PackardV8

This guy got a Ford unit to work on a 6v indian. Here is one of his replies:

"hi i chose the ford as they are still easily available

and a friend had one kicking about

also i liked the idea that it would work on the standard points setup

without having to make an extra circuit and was prepared to try it on

6 volts do you have any observations on this module i would be

glad to hear them as i am not technical but understand the principle

fairly well."

See http://www.gofastforless.com/ignition/tfi.htm

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Guest imported_PackardV8

Altho he did admit:

"hi the module that i am using is a ford one as per

the article easy to hook up and no additional components

runs well on my 6 volt system with contacts, i rode about

15 miles today and all seems well i also ran the battery down to

4.5 volts and it still run but would not start below 5 volts

im sure i dont need it but wanted to play anyway

barry uk".

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Guest imported_PackardV8

Altho he did admit:

"hi the module that i am using is a ford one as per

the article easy to hook up and no additional components

runs well on my 6 volt system with contacts, i rode about

15 miles today and all seems well i also ran the battery down to

4.5 volts and it still run but would not start below 5 volts

im sure i dont need it but wanted to play anyway

barry uk".

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Guest imported_PackardV8

Look at the link in my 7:03 post. It has a schematic for the GM module with NO zeners nor resistors. I've not studied it real close yet.

Maybe i need to try mine without the zener or resistors.

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Guest imported_PackardV8

Look at the link in my 7:03 post. It has a schematic for the GM module with NO zeners nor resistors. I've not studied it real close yet.

Maybe i need to try mine without the zener or resistors.

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Guest imported_Speedster

That schematic is for when module is used with a magnetic-pickup type distributor. The voltage-regulator circuit components (zener and resistors) are Needed when using that module with a points type distributor, in an attempt to keep a constant voltage level at module, so triggering will be more consistant at various RPM ranges.

Magnetic-pickups don't require that since they produce a very constant pulse, in levels, duration and No bounce.

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Guest imported_Speedster

That schematic is for when module is used with a magnetic-pickup type distributor. The voltage-regulator circuit components (zener and resistors) are Needed when using that module with a points type distributor, in an attempt to keep a constant voltage level at module, so triggering will be more consistant at various RPM ranges.

Magnetic-pickups don't require that since they produce a very constant pulse, in levels, duration and No bounce.

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Guest imported_Speedster

Ah, Yes, That's the one I had seen before in a magazine, but then could not find it. (it was more like the one in Fig.-3, but without the LED indicator).

The transistor may make a better regulator than the zener, since it will shape the trigger pulses more. (it needs resistor R3, which should not be left out)

I really like the circuit in Fig.-4

The bypass-switch and LED would be handy to have and the simple timeout circuit would be great to have also, to prevent possible battery discharge.

But there again they are using it for 1 or 2 cylinder motorcycle engines. It may be that an 8 cylinder engine has too many pulses per revolution of the dist and along with points bounce, just won't let the module operate properly, due to inconsistant pulses triggering the module, mainly at higher RPMs. smirk.gif And there may be no way to clean up the timing and shape of those pulses with a simple circuit.

I think you should try it tho, it may work great. grin.gif

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Guest imported_Speedster

Ah, Yes, That's the one I had seen before in a magazine, but then could not find it. (it was more like the one in Fig.-3, but without the LED indicator).

The transistor may make a better regulator than the zener, since it will shape the trigger pulses more. (it needs resistor R3, which should not be left out)

I really like the circuit in Fig.-4

The bypass-switch and LED would be handy to have and the simple timeout circuit would be great to have also, to prevent possible battery discharge.

But there again they are using it for 1 or 2 cylinder motorcycle engines. It may be that an 8 cylinder engine has too many pulses per revolution of the dist and along with points bounce, just won't let the module operate properly, due to inconsistant pulses triggering the module, mainly at higher RPMs. smirk.gif And there may be no way to clean up the timing and shape of those pulses with a simple circuit.

I think you should try it tho, it may work great. grin.gif

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I dont understand any of this. What's wrong with the way Packards were manufactured? Any of you engage in sustained operation in excess of 4,500 rpm ?

Points for my car's needs (1932-1939 Packard V-12) are an off-the-shelf item at any NAPA store (yes, they still carry a listing for them; sometimes I have had to wait overnight for a fresh set).

What am I missing here? My Packard V-12 goes about 15,000 miles before i pull the points off to re-grind/clean. No noticeable change in performance as the miles on the points go on and on. Not even sure why I bother - gradually extending the intervals of point cleaning.

Packard going back to the 20's (possibly earlier, I dont know) have standard timing marks on their front pulley/vibration damper, so re-timing is a simple matter with an off-the-shelf strobe timing light.

Should all this be filed in the "if it aint broke..dont fix it" file?

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Guest imported_PackardV8

For engines with UNDER 8:1 compression ratio the E-ignition is a waste. For engines in the 9:1 and higher , like the V8, it affords (supposedly) better fuel economy but at a maintenance cost risk.

That's why i want to retain the stock ignition and points while using the e-ignition. Reverting back to stock ignition if the e-ign fails can be done 'easily' at the side of the road.

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Guest imported_PackardV8

Speedster. I'll try figure 4 set up as soon as i can. It will about a month or so. I need to finish another project first.

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