Series II L67/ 6 speed manual conversion

[Guest F14CRAZY]

And this time, it's real. My old thread seems to have been lost in the new forum software change, so I'm making a new thread.

I try not to be one of those that does more talking than doing, and I'm actually doing. This evening I picked up this bad boy...

Six speed manual I picked up on ebay

Scham is a pretty big, late model yard in Mason, not too far from me. Car-part.com shows they have like a dozen of these things, prescribed for an '06 Pontiac G6 GTP (paired with the 3900, or an '07 GT with the Sport Package) for $650 each. For reasons I don't quite understand, they sell the same exact ones on ebay for $500. I picked it up myself and paid cash this afternoon, which they should be happy about since they don't have to ship it and Paypal doesn't get a cut of their money.

How they got them, I'm not certain, but this is an unopened case of them marked to be from GM. I guess their sales of manual G6's has been really disappointing. (Note, this is also used in the Saab 9-3).

This unit is the F40, and I will call it that from here on out. It's rated for more power than previous 5 speeds GM has used. It has never been mated to a 3800 from the factory, but at least for certain the bell housing pattern is the same.

In other news, I've been calling around and using car-part.com some more on finding a supercharged 3800 Series II. I've located one, with a rebuilt supercharger (the Eaton M90), 90k some miles, and accessories (A/C, alternator, starter...) for $1k. I plan on acting on this soon, perhaps tomorrow or Saturday. Miles may sound high for a donor engine, but I'm not worried, this is a 3800 we're talking about

Ryan of Sinister Performance is going to be doing my ECM tuning once again. I've been in contact with him the past week or two. I'd like to do some upgrades from the start, so he's given me the contact of his machinist that will port the cylinder heads and the supercharger housing. His other suggestions are a supercharger underdrive pulley, a pretty basic and common mod for these, along with a 3'' exhaust. I've listened to sound clips on Youtube of 3800 Camaro's and Firebird's and have kinda decided I like the Flowmaster sound the best. I still like to keep it pretty quiet for highway cruising (droning sucks). I'm going to keep a catalytic converter in place, but it will be of high flow design.

To be figured out:

-clutch: I'm going to get a 3800 Camaro/Firebird (F-body, from here on out) manual flywheel. This is the only application of a 3800 and manual tranny. This will be fitted to the L67's flexplate, and will be machined for the clutch. The Fiero guys at www.fiero.nl are probably my best bet for tips on this part of the project, since they do motor swaps left and right. The clutch disk, pressure plate, etc need to be figured out. Scott at the Auto Shop used Beretta clutch pedal and master cylinder (I think, if I remember right) and I'll do that or something similar.

-CV shafts: I will have to evaluate the splines of the 4T60/440-T4, the '89 Reatta's stock automatic, and see how they compare to the F40. For certain, custom lengths will be involved.

-shifter: I don't know if I exactly have to yet, but I'm going to attempt obtaining the G6 shifter, linkages, and cables. I have a couple spares that Scott hooked me up with, and I will have to check those out too and see if they're compatible with the F40. I believe they're either for the W-body 5 speed or the Beretta 5 speed.

That's about it for now. I'm going to take lots fo pix and document everything the best I can.

"May the wind be at our backs"

[Guest F14CRAZY]

Case of transmissions...

[Guest Reatta1]

Don't know if it's just me, but, no pictures come through.

[Ronnie]

No photos showing up for me.

[Guest F14CRAZY]

I'll be back and fix the photos later today.

A salvage yard in Flint has some goodies I need, including the CV shafts, clutch pedal, shifter, cables, master cylinder, and that kind of thing, for $1k. Cheap? No. But I need the stuff. I'm going to try to run out there today and pay for the stuff so they can pull it and have it out for me next week

[padgett]

That is one interesting web site. 06 3800 $1300, 06 4t80E trans for $800. What a package.

[Guest F14CRAZY]

I'll give a better update later, but I made a trip out to Flint this afternoon.

I paid for the G6 clutch related parts and CV shafts, to the tune of $1060.00. The stuff is from Mike's Auto Salvage from an '06 G6 GTP coupe. I'm getting the master cylinder, clutch pedal, resevoir, cables, shifter, the clutch disc and pressure plate, and all the hardware for the stuff. Chuck there understood my project and has a good idea of what I need from him.

There's like half a dozen salvage yards along Dort Highway, so I shopped around for a F-body flywheel and a complete L67. Couldn't find a flywheel but I placed a deposit on an engine. $650 for a complete L67 with 58k miles from a 2002 Regal GS is a great deal compared with the prices I've seen on car-part.com (this wasn't listed there, that I know of). I was close to buying one with 87k or so miles for $1k, so it was good I held off and shopped around.

Chuck at Mike's Auto Salvage also said that he would measure the depth of the 3900's flywheel in the bellhousing. I clarified this with Ryan, and I was correct that the point is to get the flywheel on the 3800 to be the same depth in the bellhousing as the 3900's flywheel is. Clutching then won't be much of an issue. The stock 3900 clutch probably isn't rated high enough for the power I'm going to be putting through it, and Ryan said to check out SPEC clutch...he has them make custom clutches, so I'll be contacting them soon.

I've probably forgotten some stuff at the moment, so I'll post back later (and try to fix that pic)

[Guest F14CRAZY]

Here's my half-decent camera phone pic of the case of transaxles

I'll get more images of the unit soon. I actually haven't had a chance to look it over good yet

[Guest F14CRAZY]

Some info from GM Powertrain on the 6 speed...

<span style="font-weight: bold">2007 F40 (MU9)

2007 Model Year Summary

General Motors Powertrain-Europe F40 six-speed manual car transaxle

● New Detent System For Quicker And Easier Shifting

● Gear Ratio Changes For Quicker Acceleration

FULL DESCRIPTIONS OF NEW OR CHANGED FEATURES

NEW DETENT SYSTEM FOR QUICKER AND EASIER SHIFTING

The addition of a ball-and-spring-type detent on the shift sleeve and detents on the shift rail assists the driver in shifting quicker. The detent raises the force required to move the shift lever which prevents excess movement of the shifter by the driver, and reduces the chance of double bump. Tension between the shift sleeve and the shift rail also prevents the sleeve from vibrating while in gear.

GEAR RATIO CHANGES FOR QUICKER ACCELERATION

To adapt the F40 to North American applications and maximize performance, 3rd through 6th gears have been changed to higher-ratio gears. The ratio for 3rd gear is now 1.37:1, and the ratio for 4th gear is no longer an overdrive, with a new ratio of 1.05:1. The 5th gear ratio is 0.85:1 and the 6th gear ratio is 0.71:1.

LOW MAINTENANCE

The MT2/MU9 uses a Castrol Burmah (BOT 0063) manual transmission fluid, and is validated as "fill-for-life". No maintenance is required for normal operation.

OVERVIEW

Originally a design developed for Fiat, Opel and Saab applications, the F40 (MT2) is a GM Powertrain - Europe six-speed manual transaxle built in Russelsheim, Germany. Its first use in a North American application was the Pontiac G6 for the 2006 model year. It is also used in some Saab 9-3 and 9-5 models.

It is a three-axis design, with first, second, fifth, and sixth gears on an output shaft behind and below the input shaft, and third and fourth gears are on an output shaft in front of and above the input shaft. Both output shaft pinions drive a helical gear with a conventional differential. The clutch is mounted on a dual-mass flywheel to dampen vibrations on whichever output shaft is idle depending upon which gear is selected.

The F40 is cast in aluminum, and weighs 124 pounds (see specs). It has been certified for up to 400 Nm of engine torque.

Triple-cone synchronizers are used on 1st and 2nd gears. These synchronizers have three friction surfaces, which increase their ability to transfer the flow of torque more smoothly from one gear to another. Synchronizers act as clutches to speed up or slow down the gearsets that are being shifted to, and greater friction area results in easier shifting for the driver. The 3rd, 4th, and reverse synchronizers are double-cone, while the 5th and 6th gear synchronizers are single-cone. All of the friction surfaces on the synchronizer rings are sintered bronze. The ratios in the 6-speed are widely spaced for versatile performance and efficiency.</span>

Some of this 2007 info won't apply to my unit. Note that 400 newton/meters equals about 295 ft/lbs

[DarkHorizon]

I have done a few 3800 swaps out here in Flint, surprised I didn't run into on Dort, as I bought a 97 3800 yesterday from RPM auto salvage for my next project. I pretty much live at those yards looking for gems in the form of L67's. You'll find that flint junkyards seem to be a different world, not many are in tune with the car-part.com, so prices seem to be whatever you want them to be if you can talk with the guys enough.

If you have any questions feel free to ask. I have put together alot of exhaust systems, so I sorta know how to suggest a system to specific characteristics. I have done a ton of wiring, its to the point now where I can put harnesses together in a few hours.

I have a phone number that you can call me at, or just ask questions here. Just pm me either here or on PFF under the same name.

[Guest F14CRAZY]

You didn't happen to notice a white Reatta convertible at the yards did you? That would have been me

[DarkHorizon]

no, I didnt see you, but I did get a motor for $200, with 132k on it. Its in really nice shape.

[padgett]

An advantage to living in the rust belt is that cars tend to get totalled much sooned than in the souf. Around Detroit you also tend to find things that GM was throwing out. Some great deals there.

[Guest F14CRAZY]

Sorry for the wait on pix...

The bellhousing

Passenger side CV joint socket. The Reatta CV shafts are not compatible

[Guest TheNewDamage]

Ok this is a thread to watch closely. NICE project!!! I restored a '72 El Camino, had an '85 Fiero GT and still have a '91 Corvette as well as my '90 Reatta coupe and have worked extensively on all of them so this sort of thing is just up my alley. Well, I would be somewhat hesitant to take on a project like this personally as the arms just hurt too bad from arthritis anymore. Middle age blows. But I will be watching with enthusiasm.

[Guest F14CRAZY]

stock image of the G6 shifter. I liked the shift action when I drove an '07 GT (Sport Package). They're including the bezel and the boot, though as Greg has done I will most likely have to have it custom made to fit the Reatta's console.

To get to reverse in the top left, you pull the one thing up with two fingers

[Guest F14CRAZY]

The reply I received from Ryan's porting specialist, David Norris...

<span style="font-weight: bold">Hi Philip, thanks for your interest! If 300 to 350 hp is your goal then that is not a problem at all. A ported supercharger is a great upgrade as well as a larger throttle body paired up with it. This will lower outlet temps of the supercharger by making it more efficient which keeps detenation down and helps out a bit with throttle responce. I do quite a few housings for Ryan and we always match up a Northstar throttle body, custom adapter plate, and a ported housing for a bolt on package. Head porting is definately a great idea but is not cheap but I will give you some prices on that as well. The HP numbers you are looking for will be easy to attain but how much you want to spend and how and when you will be driving the car will be factors in which route to choose. The engine is rated stock at 240 HP. A 3.4 pulley is usually good for around 20 additional HP, a 3" downpipe another 5-10 HP, ported blower housing and larger throttle body 5-15 HP, ported heads 15 to 30 HP depeding on engine combo. With these mods alone you are going to be 300 HP no problem. Keep in mind the above is with a stock valvetrain which is great numbers for a V6. Now you have a few options for valvetrain upgrades that will really wake the engine up. The mildest upgrade is a set of aftermarket full-roller rocker arms. They come in a slew of different rations, 1.8 and 1.9 being the most popular. The stock rocker arm ratio is 1.6 BUT the rocker arms do flex and fall short of this spec where an aftermarket rocker arm does a better job of keeping true to its advertised ratio. I have used numorous sets of 1.84:1 ratio rocker arms from ZZPerformance.com with great results. A higher ratio rocker arms such as this is good for an easy 20 HP on a boosted engine as it will lower boost because of more valve lift and better flow which alone makes better power, plus you can even drop another pulley size or two to add even more power but a optimum tune is required for the smaller pulley to run safely. Your other option is to install an aftermarket camshaft which hands down will make greater power than the rockers will. I have run both of these in my own cars and proved the gains at the track with before and after testing and hundreds of passes down the strip. I tend to favor rockers for a car that longevity is a main concern and reliability, smooth idle and longest valvetrain life. A set of aftermarket rocker arms will cost you around $400. There are cheaper alternatives to rocker arms such as modified stock rocker arms with a 1.9 ratio but I dont care much for the idea as you still have a stock rocker arm body and a lot of extra stress and there is no roller tip on the valve on a stock rocker arm. They are only $100 cheaper and in my opinion not the best route to take. They where made as a cheap alternative a few years back as aftermarket sets were in the $600 range, but those days are gone. Aftermarket camshafts will definately gain you the best power, generally from 20-50 HP with a good tune. I have installed a lot of camshafts in the S2 3800 engines and have never seen a failure, but they also will require upgraded valve springs, valve spring retainers, a new timing chain set, and custom pcm tuning as well as raised shift points, raised idle speeds to retain smooth idle, and a slight drop in gas mileage. A cam setup will cost more but the power gains will offset it. If a smooth running engine is what you are after then I would leave the stock cam in it and think about a set of aftermarket roller rocker arms. 1.84 is the highest ratio you can safely go without having to upgrade your valve springs. Once you get to 1.9 ratio rocker arms you really need to use a stiffer valve spring to prevent high rpm valve float. The tradeoff is a stiffer valve spring puts more stress and wear on the timing chain and timing chain dampener so again I favor using a 1.8 or 1.84 ratio rocker arm in daily driven cars looking for a little more power. I hope I havent lost you in all of that so far! here are a few prices on my porting services.....

Ported supercharger housing with standard outlet porting - $120

Outlet porting for use with an intercooler - $140

Inlet porting for stock throttle body an additional $40

Inlet porting to 75.5mm for use with larger throttle body an additional $60

Custom Northstar throttle body adapter plate $75

Rough estimate on used 96-99 type Northstar throttle body - $75

For head porting I charge $800. This includes a complete valve job which is mandatory with an head porting regardless of what you read or hear. My head porting includes extensive exhaust runner work, teardropped valve guides on the intake, bowl and pocket work on intake and exhaust, injector bumps ground down inside the intake runners, gasket matched intake runners, polished exhaust runners after final blending.

To give you an idea of what head porting for this market costs a few of the 3800 specilist vendors charge between $1200 and $2200 for this type of work. I will also tell you that most of these heads that others sell have larger valves which while a good idea will cause a few possible problems depending on your valvetrain setup. One company for example uses aftermarket valves and different valve guides which have proven to wear prematurely and destroy your engine, not good! Another company uses an OE type LS1 engine valve which I will also use BUT the valves are longer and this requires carefull examination of valvetrain geometry during engine assembly and if not properly set up will destroy the heads and rocker arms. The 3800 engines do not use adjustable valvetrains, they rocker arms simply are torqued down and that is it so it is mandatory to check for proper alignment of the rocker arm hitting the valve tip or premature wear will result when using aftermarket heads with larger valves. I like using the stock sized valves unless it is a max effort combination that wasnt intended for lots of mileage.

I hope this gives you a good idea of some of your options and pricing to upgrade your engine to the power levels you desire. There are a lot of different combinations that work great, it just depends on how you want it to perform and how much you want to spend. If you have any other questions please feel free to ask.

David Norris </span>

I'm going to discuss this with Ryan and come up with a plan of attack. Rockers sounds like a good idea

[jonlabree]

Sombody rich died in his family.

[DarkHorizon]

I agree with most of what the porting guy said, the rockers are a great option if you are not a tuning guru. I think that he is a bit over optimistic on what throttle body upgrades and porting offer, as tuning a modded mass air flow sensor is a bit of a super big pain. The ultimate basic setup is a nice exhaust from the manifolds back, the cheap modded rockers, stock valve springs/chain, and blower work. The blower intake port is the most important area of porting in the blower, aside from taking out the "bolt holes" in the blower outlet, if you look at a blower outlet you will see what I mean. The more you deviate from stock, the more you are going to need tuning, and the more suicidal your setup becomes.

I would start out with a 3.4 pulley.

[Guest F14CRAZY]

You mean David Norris needs to make a boat payment? J/K, nothing against him at all or his work. This big surge in the project is due to the sale of my '92 Explorer. I haven't told you guys, except maybe Brian and Tommy, but I got rid of the two Explorers and have a brand new '07 Subaru Forester (black, AWD, 5 speed manual). Great vehicle. I do have a loan payment but this way I'm not tied up spending time and money keeping two old Explorers on the road.

[Guest F14CRAZY]

I've been working all week but got a few hours to make my run to Flint...

The '02 Regal GS engine, with 58k miles. Am going to degrease and powerwash it, but it really shouldn't need anything. I may or may not replace its sensors. The alternator and starter are in my possession, just not pictured.

Side view. I noticed the AC Delco filter...it may have had dealer oil changes and service, a good thing.

I pretty much just had the chains for the backhoe to use cuz I didn't have a chance to run home for the rest of my tie downs

Not the best pic...

Here, we have the 3900 flywheel, clutch disc, and pressure plate. I asked the yard to get me the flywheel-to-bellhousing measurement, and they threw in a this measurement too. I don't think I need it but it was nice of them

The three units apart

The flywheel. And folks, right there, is our magic number. 1 5/8'' from the flywheel face to the bellhousing. This is what I/we need to know to get a flywheel made up.

The clutch pedal, master cylinder, slave cylinder, and reservoir. My new transmission already has a slave cylinder.

G6 shafts on the left, Reatta on the right. The outboard ends are different between the two cars. I will investigate piecing them together tomorrow. I will probably have to consult a local axle specialist on this

(dramatic entrance music) The shifter

The business end

This photo does not need a caption

Hooked it up for the heck of it, and felt what it's like to put it through all those gears

Cables attached to the transmission

I'll be back probably tomorrow and will report back with some more useful info

[Guest F14CRAZY]

I've been crazy busy working lately, but I'm soon going to obtain the required flywheel. I've removed my steering column to evaluate placement of the clutch pedal, which looks like it's going to be a complete PITA

[Guest TommyH]

wow. that is going to be sweet!

good luck!

[Guest F14CRAZY]

I've been working on the clutch pedal quite a bit this afternoon. Expect an update soon

[Guest F14CRAZY]

Unmodified G6 clutch pedal assembly

"Thingy" cut off

The nightmare under the dash. Somewhere, the clutch pedal has to be mounted here, in a good spot, and not interfere with the steering column

Notice where the "thingy" was coming in contact

Stock Reatta brake pedal

G6 clutch pedal on the left, and my Reatta brake pedal after some time with the angle grinder. I've got it really really close to being the same as the G6 pedal. It isn't perfect but the pad from the G6 will fit it just fine and it'll look like it's supposed to be there.

And a lot of cutting...

[Guest F14CRAZY]

Captions added to the pix above

[DAVES89]

Looks like a real challenge. When I was about your age I did an automatic on the column to a 4 speed on the floor swap on an el Camino. All the parts were readily available as the el Camino is basically a Chevelle and 4 speeds were very common on those. I just had to swap bell housings and trannys, unbolt old brake pedal, bolt in brake/clutch pedal combo bracket, cut hole in floor[already marked from factory] and I was done. Oh, and shorten the drive shaft, which was no problem as my step father owned a machine shop. I also swapped motors going from a 350-2 barrel to a 454 4 barrel Holly. Then I blew out the rear end and dropped in a 4:88[ geared way to low for the street] changed to a 3:73 and boy did that thing fly!I wish you well and watching with keen interest.

[Guest F14CRAZY]

I've been really busy working, at the cottage, among other things, but I've been free this weekend and have been hacking away. I'm finishing mounting the clutch pedal, though I still have to figure out the master cylinder. I should be able to post some pix tonight

[Guest F14CRAZY]

Some photos of mounting the clutch pedal. I have to shave a tiny bit off of the mount and move one of the bolts over, cuz the U joints of the steering column barely, barely touch, but otherwise it's mounted. Next I suppose I'll have to deal with the master cylinder

The U joint rubbs when the column is mounted back in

[Guest F14CRAZY]

New progress:

I decided to go with using a bracket to mount the master cylinder to the clutch pedal assembly. I figure this is easier than trying to mount it to the firewall at a 45 degree angle (the way it has to be in relation with the pedal assembly). I'll then cut out whatever part of the firewall I have to to get it to fit. I'm having my amazing machinist, Pat of Backdoor Machining do this. He's like a mechanical genius and can make precisely the right bracket I need. He made a drawing of what he thought would work well and I wish I had it to post it, but you'll be seeing it soon.

After this, I'll be messing with the flywheel and clutch situation. I visited Clutch Dynamics in Lansing and gave the gentleman there a summary of what I'm doing. He said I missed the main guy (another Pat) by a few minutes and said to call or come back tomorrow, but he said my project wouldn't be a problem at all and they do similar things like this including with Fieros.

That's it for now

[Guest F14CRAZY]

I visited my machinist to check his progress. He'll have it done early next week, but he's a genius (sorry for my crappy photo angles)

[Guest F14CRAZY]

My machinist has been busy but should have my clutch pedal assembly done by next Monday (my birthday)

I lifted up the L67 to mess around with the passenger side motor mount. On the L67 it's located under the harmonic balancer, but with the LN3 is more underneath the air con compressor. The bolt holes are in the same location between the two blocks, and the LN3 bracket and mount will bolt up just fine. I have to pick up a new hydraulic mount cuz it's leaking and I'm certain it's "done". Pricey little buggers though, $166 at Advance. Is there a solid mount for this that you guys have used that may interchange? I'll post pix later.

For the heck of it I did some rough measuring of the location of the driver's side mount that's attached to the tranny. They're in the same spot, if not very close, between the F40 six speed and the 4T60. I was gonna go ahead and pull the subframe/engine cradle but I need a 6 point 15mm socket, which I don't have at the moment.

Pix later!

[Guest F14CRAZY]

I got the 4300 out to get the L67 in the air to mess with the passenger side mount (on E-bodies this would be the front-passenger mount, I guess)

I'll do what I can to explain this one...on the left is the stock Reatta (E body) mount and right is the W-body mount that came attached to the L67. On the Reatta mount, notice the 3 holes in a V-formation...these bolt to the block. The rest of the assembly holds the compressor.

Now, to the W body mount...um, I forgot how to explain it well and I'm too beat to go back outside and look . But the L67 has the same 3 holes in the V formation as the LN3 block, though the W body mount does not use the 3rd (top, farthest to the left) bolt hole of the V formation. <span style="font-weight: bold">Meaning, the LN3 bracket fits perfectly fine to the L67 and is in the same place it was</span>

[Guest F14CRAZY]

Sorry for the crappy pic, but I pulled the dashboard tonight and did some more cutting. I'm trying to get the clutch pedal to go up farther off the floor and forward a bit more to match the brake pedal

[Guest F14CRAZY]

I wish I had a better update for you guys (pix) but it seems I misplaced the charger for my camera. Mmmmy bad!

I removed the base of the center console, including the radio module inside, and I've made up two brackets to mount the G6 shifter assembly. It's a lot bigger than the Reatta shifter.

One challenge I face actually is having choice. I can pretty much put the clutch pedal, shifter, and anything else exactly where I want it to make it comfortable, easy to reach and use...like Scott at the Auto Shop put the clutch pedal for his 5 speed in his Reatta a little closer than the brake, and mentioned that RWD cars often have this. That's cool, but I haven't really driven a RWD manual car, let alone manuals aside from a '91 F250, '92 Explorer, and my '07 Forester. I can get educated opinions from others, but will such a position be right for me? I don't know. It doesn't help that I have the car torn down so far that I can't really check out things like that. This pertains to a lot of other things, like where exactly should I position the gauges on the pillar that I want? *shrug*. At any rate, I've got the pedals spaced pretty evenly horizontally and vertically with each other. The angle of the pad on the pedals may need to be changed (cut and rewelded) to be perfect, but that isn't a problem. The shifter is going to be pretty much where the Reatta's was, but I'm kind of shooting in the dark on this because obviously a manual shifter moves differently from an auto shifter. I considered though that the stock auto shifter was in a pretty comfortable position to start with, with all measurements considered. Height will be about the same but probably slightly taller. When the time comes I'll have Vern of Lansing Auto Trim make me a shift boot that fits the console.

Yesterday I stopped by Crippen (closest Buick dealer to me) and ordered another G6 clutch pedal pad. Recall that I trimmed my stock brake pedal perfectly to be the same size as the G6 clutch pedal. $11.

[Guest F14CRAZY]

I kicked some butt tonight and I can say I'm done with the clutch pedal and master cylinder. I'm using my little bro's camera and I'm going to jack up the image quality a notch next time

The master cylinder through the firewall. It can be spun around and adjusted to get the reservoir inlet and the outlet to the slave cylinder just right. My idea for sealing it up is to get an old tractor tube and cut it just right, then fasten it to the firewall. Keep drafts, water, and fumes out

The pedal arrangement seems to have turned out pretty well. They're close to where they will be when the car is operational. The brake is wearing a G6 clutch pedal pad that came with the G6 clutch pedal, and the clutch pedal is wearing a brand new, well, G6 clutch pedal pad. They're slightly different but good-e-nuffer for at least the time being. The angle of which the pedal itself faces you is different between the clutch and the brake, and the clutch may be an inch or two too close to the driver, but I can have Mario cut and weld it to my liking later.

I'm pretty satisfied with how my brackets came out. I painted my brackets and did a quick spray of all the bare surfaces from my cutting.

[Guest F14CRAZY]

Progress: I've been a little disgruntled with cars lately since my Forester was like totaled, but I'm back at it. I got this done last night...it came out pretty well. The shifter is mounted firmly despite the crapload of washers and from what I can tell, is in a really good spot as far as ergonomics go. I'm pretty sure the stock G6 shift cables will reach.

[Guest TommyH]

Wow! Nice work! I wish I could find a Toronado Trofeo to do my shifter mod..

[Guest F14CRAZY]

F14's at it again!

Reatta's engine cradle. I'll be replacing the suspension bushings, steering rack and inner tie rods, and painting it before it goes back in. No obvious rust damage

Driver's side transmission mount. You'll see this later...

This is where the hydraulic mount goes, near the a/c compressor

To anyone that thought the F40 wouldn't mount to a 3800...it does . I figured I'd see how this would mount to the cradle tonight for the heck of it so I put a few bolts to it and the bellhousings match just fine. I don't have a clutch set built yet...that's probably going to be next in my budget

The shift cable bracket (holds the cables to the transmission) are in the way of the exhaust crossover, so I took the bracket off. I'll make any modifications needed after i get TOGs

[Guest MauiWowee]

RE: relocating oil filter.

There are kits for doing this. I believe they are called something like

"remote oil filter kit". Try Jeg's, or if you need help finding one let me know.

They come with the relocating bracket.