Coil over shocks?

Has anyone put coil over shocks on early 50's Buicks?

I don't see much comment. I can tell you that I have a 2005 Silverado with unequal length A arm front suspension that rides great. Chevy changed to coil over front suspension on the trucks shortly after and I can feel a harshness in the newer ones. They aren't as smooth as mine. In fact, if I buy a new Chevy, I will go for one with torsion bars instead.

That original suspension on the Buick is much more technically advanced that the coil overs. I wouldn't mess up the Buick if it just needs service.

And my other coil sprung, arm arm cars ride nice.

Bernie

It was just a thought I had while kicking around the options and alternatives to having Apple or Five Points rebuild my knee action shocks. I'm pretty sure the money spent on coil overs and fabrication of the mounting hardware would be far more than rebuild cost.

IF you put "coil overs" where they didn't originally come, you'd be transferring suspension forces into places they were not designed to be.

Originally, "coil overs" were more race car stuff, as they allowed a little greater freedom in suspension tuning AND a simpler R&R action. In many newer applications, it's more for ease of assembly than anything else I can determine. On those earlier race car applications, the shock's tube is threaded so that the spring can be adjusted (compressed) at each corner for stiffness and ride height.

NOT that they can't ride as nicely as anything else, but by the time you got things "converted", time-expense-fabrication-adjustment, you could well be wishing you'd have had the originals rebuilt. Be sure to get the rubber bushings in the front AND rear suspension replaced while the shocks are out being rebuilt.

At the time that GM started using "coil overs" on their light duty pickups, they also made some other changes that can affect impact harshness. Much less compression distance before the lower control arm hits the polyurethane bumper . . . since the first Tahoes. Other suspension bushings also seem to have been "hardened", too.

Chevy did use front torsion bars, exclusively, on all of their light duty and medium duty trucks from about 1962-64. Otherwise, normal control arms and coil springs up front. Even back then, I could tell the type of front springs without looking under the front end! Torsion bars cost more.

In more recent times, the only trucks with torsion bars were the front wheel drive models. EXCEPT for several model years of Suburbans which were all built with front torsion bars, even the two wheel drive models (whose frames looked like a 4wd chassis without the 4wd stuff in it, up front).

Take care,

NTX5467

Yep, my next truck plan is for a new Cop Tahoe.

The first coil overs I remember coming into this country were on the XKE's. They made a nice compact rear sub-assembly for a unit body or monocoque. Always be cautious about technology from countries that equip most of their cars with a set of tools.

The best thing to do with a '53 Buick is to get a quart or two of hydraulic jack oil and a squirt oil gun. Pull the shock fluid plugs and top them off. On the rear I like to disconnect the link and pump the arm by hand while filling it. Once topped off take it out and drive it 100 miles or so. If there is leakage around a seal wrap some cotton string around the shaft as close as you can. If it stops the leak, fine. (Ask a fitter how to seal a drip in a wet sprinkler line.) If not take the shock apart, clean it, and put new seals in.

Buicks live pretty easy lives. Most issues are from sitting around and being dry.

Bernie

Sounds like all good advice. That's why I tune in here. Yesterday I tried to disconnect the links on the rear with no success. I put a nut partially on the bolt and whacked it with a hammer. I can't see any way to get a puller up there. So far I haven't damaged anything. If you who have done this remember how you did it, please let me know.

I once saw a forum piece about a bolt on kit that added telescopic shocks on the front of a Buick without modifying the original set up. But where did I see that?....

Pat

Sounds like all good advice. That's why I tune in here. Yesterday I tried to disconnect the links on the rear with no success. I put a nut partially on the bolt and whacked it with a hammer. I can't see any way to get a puller up there. So far I haven't damaged anything. If you who have done this remember how you did it, please let me know.

On the top link attached to the frame with the nut and washer removed, squirt some penetrating juice in the area of the tapered link stud and let it sit for awhile. Then, seriously, use a bigger hammer like a 3# sledge. Ball pein or lightweight 16-ounce hammers didn't work for me. I had to remove the complete shock from the brake backing plate to salvage the bottom link stud although a correct puller or some heat might have worked on the bottom one.

Al Malachowski

BCA #8965

"500 Miles West of Flint"

Wish I could remember what I did on my 53 but I know they were in there tight as hell.

I planned on replacing mine so I wasn't concerned about finessing them out. I am pretty sure I used heat and a hammer. I did soak them good with Break Away days before with no luck. The cone shaped bolt fits very tight.

Are you getting new ones?

Try a few sharp raps with two hammers on opposite sides. That should knock the taped joint apart.

B

Thanks. I guess I was on the right track with the hammer. So, more Kroil and a bigger hammer. If I get everything off in good shape I will reuse.

A little heat on the socket only to swell it. Then when it's about halfway cooled off the penetrating oil where you want it to separate. Then the 3# hammer. Good luck.

Pat

yes! here is a 54 sedan. used the lever shock hole on the drum but had to weld in a mount on the frame. Quick, simple and no more wishy washy back end. Put the beefed up sway bar in the front and it has a wonderful ride and can even go on mountain roads. Plus you can adjust the ride height.

yes! here is a 54 sedan. used the lever shock hole on the drum but had to weld in a mount on the frame. Quick, simple and no more wishy washy back end. Put the beefed up sway bar in the front and it has a wonderful ride and can even go on mountain roads. Plus you can adjust the ride height.

I thought there had to be one out there somewhere. I was thinking they would put the coil/overs in the position of the old coil springs though. Looks like there would be an awful lot of cantilever pressure on that bolt going through the drum but good to hear it works. Do you happen to know the specs on those coil/overs?