Water pump packing

My 25 DB sedan has a water pump that leaks. I'm hoping to repack it well enough to put off having it rebuilt until the off season. Any advice in repacking would be appreciatewd. I know from my manual that the packing goes inside of the washer instead of on the nut side. I don't know is how much packing to use. 2, 3, 4 winds? I do suspect this is a stop gap measure until the pump is rebuilt.

T hanks for any advice you may have.

Regards,

Larry Pletcher

Put as many rows of packing as will fit with the nut just barely started. Rap it so that it doesn't unravel when tightening the nut, clockwise or counterclockwise. I like to dip it into neversieze or water pump grease before putting it in. Tighten the nut only tight enough to stop it from leaking, that will not cause too mush friction and heat.

Are you using anti freeze?? I packed and repacked mine numerous times, but did not stop leaking. Not much leaking, but annoying! The solution I found, was to use water, like they did back then. No drips!! I finally concluded that antifreeze is too slick, and not available then. I recall they used rubbing alcohol, and drained the car in winter. Good luck!! Chuck

Thank you all for your advice. I tried repacking this afternoon. Right now it isn't leaking, much to my surprise. The packing nut on the forward side did not have a washer inside. I used thicker strands on that side, and so far it seems to be holding. The back side was more straight forward. The trick of using grease in with the packing sounded like a good idea.

Dodger - I have been running water and drain in the winter - mostly because of the leaky pump. I do use antifreeze in my Model T and Model A. So far they don't leak.

Thanks again for your help. Best Regards,

Larry Pletcher

I drain every fall and in the spring I use water only with a bottle of water pump lubricant with the water. It is water soluble oil and I seldom have leak and don't have to retighten the packing nuts very often.

I know I'm late to the topic but...

Where do you get packing for the water pump? I've got a 1918 touring car with the flathead four cylinder engine. 

I removed my shaft and had excessive corrosion on the shaft. Repacking did help but water pump still leaked. Make sure you grease the grease fitting well.

1 hour ago, stakeside said:

I removed my shaft and had excessive corrosion on the shaft. Repacking did help but water pump still leaked. Make sure you grease the grease fitting well.

That is the biggest issue with the old steel shafts, rust and corrosion. Using stainless steel shafting is the way to go because no amout of packing will stop the leaks if the shaft is not smooth. 

Re seeing anti-freeze, that's because it's green or orange so you see it. The clear water just evaporates so it fools you into thinking it is leaking less. Ma-Ha-Ha

7 hours ago, 68dodgeramman said:

I know I'm late to the topic but...

Where do you get packing for the water pump? I've got a 1918 touring car with the flathead four cylinder engine. 

You can try the tried and true DB parts dealers. myersearlydodge.com and Romardb.com. But I bought my packing from mcmastercarr.com

Ace hardware!  or other local hardware suppliers. 

The packing made for fast shaft revolutions does not have cord inside, that type is made for faucets and such. restoration shops or Ford parts houses can get you packing that will not score the shaft.

Ace 1/8 in. D X 24 in. L Graphite Faucet Packing - Ace Hardware

1926-1936 Water Pump Graphite Packing Chevrolet Pickup And 1/2 ton Trucks (oldchevytrucks.com)

Granted the ACE stuff might have less graphite, but both are stranded type. 

I have used the stranded type with very little graphite and worked ok. 

You can buy packing from McMaster Carr, simple to do online, and it will deliver iin one or two days. It couldn’t be any easier.

The ACE packing is the wrong type for a waterpump the other shown looks more correct.

The easy way……