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34 Dodge Brothers Fuel Tank


Fishlicker

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I just pulled the fuel tank out of the truck and discovered it was coated with thick varnish and whats left of 30 year old fuel, im sure there's some rust but cant see much thru the sending unit opening. My question is whats the best method for cleaning that junk out of there. I've heard laquer thinner and Ascetone with chain or a hand full of nuts thrown in, and then just slosh it all round. Im not sure how well this will work as it looks like there is a baffle in the middle of the tank.

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Edited by Fishlicker (see edit history)
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You can use acetone or thinner, but you will never be sure you get all varnish and rust out,

they sell kits for cleaning and coating,

I take al my tanks to a local radiator shop , for about 150, they dip and flush tank, and put coating inside, then paint tank.

I have sent my 35 tank to Nutank, they open tank up and clean and the coat tank, lifetime warranty, about 350

after installation install a inline filter, cheaper then a carburator rebuild.

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Don't know where you are but radiator shops around here won't/can't do them anymore. Make a solution of 3 parts water and one part molasses gotten from a feed store. Fill it to the top and let it sit for about a week. It will remove all the rust and crud and stink.

I've always wondered if trying that method twice would work even better ? Meaning, would it hurt to go overkill in this situation ? Just don't want to eat through the metal or compromise any seams I would think....

Luckily, I still have shops around here that have done a couple of tanks for me...

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Dave, if you mean use molasses twice I see know reason for it to hurt. It is a weak acid, I've had it only attack rust. Will not take off crud, grease, or paint. I do know someone that filled a MC gas tank , sealed the opening and went on vacation. Not a good idea. It erupted all over his garage and ruined the tank by swelling, guess it built pressure. If you don't completely fill the tank the solution gasses and will rust the crap out the exposed area. Filled full is perfect and CHEAP. FWIW, I do not use sealer in gas tanks either. They were never sealed from new and the new gas eats most of the sealers anyway. Most tanks were tinned or coated with something I can't remember the name of right now. The molasses doesn't hurt either.

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I always use the sealer kit after cleaning and removing rust,

If you use the kit from Eastwood , after using the molasses which is a acid,

if the initial coating was not disturbed, but since you have rust, the coating is gone, without neutralizing the acid and rincing with a base solution,

the eastwood system is a three step, cleans and de-rust, then treatment will put a coating back chemically, then coat with epoxy fuel resistant coating

best way way to prevent, rust from reappearing in a tank, is to keep it full when in storage and drain moisture occasionally, I also use red fuel additive for non ethanol fuel , which we still can get in Lower LA.

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Ian i as well am still learning, and dont know much about this truck. My Great Grandfather bought this truck new in 1934 and when he passed my father inherited the truck. dad drove it on weekends for awhile and then parked it in his garage in 1982 and there it sat up till about two years ago when i brought it home and started tinkering with it in hopes to get it back on the road. the guys on this forum have a wealth of knowledge and seem to share that knowledge only for the asking for which i am gratefull.

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The grill shell on the the 33 34 35 KC were the 33 sedan shell , my running board are from 33 Plymouth, the 16 wheels were used on the Plymouth , a lot of parts were interchanable, My truck is a second series 35 KC , it has the same can all streel cab as the 36 ,37, and 38,

enjoy you cars and trucks,

jesse

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1934 car front is totally different than the 33-35 truck. I'll post pictures of both later. The 37 38 cabs have a totally different firewall and dash than the 2nd series 35-36 Dodge cabs. the 37-38 Dodge cab is also shared with the 37-38 PLY truck. Different dash plaque and gauge facing.

Edited by countrytravler (see edit history)
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