63 Riviera, white smoke exhaust!

I took my 63 Riviera for a ride on Friday and when I returned home and put the car in the garage it suddenly started to smoke very badly from the exhaust. It was a white smoke and it poured out very heavily from the exhaust. It ran very well on the ride and it only started to smoke as I backed into the garage. I quickly turned it off and was very worried. After only a few minutes I started it up again and there was no more smoke from the exhaust. After it cooled off I checked the coolant level and it was slightly low. It was also a quart low on oil which is unusual as it never needs oil between changes. The next day I took it out again and drove about the same distance (10-12 miles) and it did not smoke at all. There is no signs of water in the oil and I let it run with the radiator cap of and the engine warmed up and coolant circulating and do not see any bubbles. I have had the car for about 22 years and it has about 120K miles on it. Can anyone give me an opinion what is happening. Thanks for any help!

White smoke that dissipates is steam from water in combustion chamber and/or exhaust (head gasket, head crack possible);white smoke that lingers is transmission fluid (vacuum modulator). Pull the plugs and look at them; do a compression check; check for oil in vacuum line from vacuum modulator. On a tour of the Flint engine plant (1988) they tested for water in the oil of the engines after testing by pulling the dip stick and splashing some oil on a hot plate: smoke only=no water; smoke and sizzle=water. Until you get a diagnosis, do the initial cranking with the plugs out in case a cylinder is full of water.

The next time that happens, should it happen again, hold a piece of white paper to the exhaust. If the exhaust leaves a residue on the paper, it's oil or something to be concerned about. It the paper just gets moist, it's the steam that Old Tank makes reference.

Oops, probably not vacuum modulator on a 63, so you can discount that as a source of oil.

Old Tank and RivNut thanks for your posts, will do further checking!

You could have a cooling system pressure test done. If the system doesn't hold pressure and there are no external coolant leaks, the next step would be to figure out where it going. My guess is the problem will come back and its probably a head gasket. Not uncommon on an engine with that mileage and age.

They also make a kit using a special test fluid to determine if combustion gases are present in the coolant. If coolant is leaking into the combustion chamber causing white smoke, you will also have combustion gas in the coolant which will be revealed with the kit.

OK Michel: A proper diagnosis is a scientifically conducted procedure. Jason's suggestion is right on, so is Old Tank. First things first. You must find out what it is that's coming out the tail pipe. I have also seen brake fluid get sucked from the master into the combustion chamber. Remember, it's an unknown until it's identified.

Identify the issue/s, verify the diagnosis and don't forget to identify WHY the part/s, components failed. Mitch

Mitch: I didn't mention this before but when I was backing down the driveway to the garage the brakes did not work as well as usual. The pedal seemed to be low and sinking and the car did not seem to have good braking power and was hard to slow down and stop. Then I backed into the garage and it again was hard to stop the car and when it stopped the white smoke came pouring out the exhaust. I did not know that it was possible for brake fluid to get sucked into the combustion chamber. This may well be the problem. Thanks for your help.

Sounds like you need a new brake master cylinder. It can leak at the back and suck brake fluid into the brake booster which pulls it into the intake and then out the exhaust.

I will get a new master cylinder and I think that will solve the problem. Thanks to all who have replied to my post!

That is certainly an easier fix than a head gasket. Also makes more sense that it was an issue that was so sudden.

Mike, I am very happy that the fix will probably be a lot easier than a head gasket or cracked head! Ordering a master cylinder today from Rock Auto.

Woody,

Did you consider switching to a dual reservoir master cylinder? A '67 Riviera drum/drum master cylinder will bolt to the booster. There's a complete swap write up on the ROA's website. You have to do two things when doing this to a '63; one is to replumb for the brake light switch, and the second is to add a distribution block so the front and rear brakes are on separate circuits. The swap is a good safety upgrade.

Ed

Thanks for your suggestion on switching to a dual reservoir master cylinder Ed. This would be a safer system but it is more extensive mechanical work than I feel can handle.

It's actually easier than it sounds. A new line from the front reservoir to the distribution block, a plug in the distribution block in place of the line to the rear brakes, and a new line from the distribution block to the rear brake line.

Not sure about your year/model, but I've known a bad diaphragm in a brake vacuum booster to cause similar symptoms.

Ed thanks for posting the pictures and instructions. You also helped me a while ago by letting me know about Riv upholstery from Clarks Corvair which I obtained and worked out very well. Marty thanks for your input.

Just an update, I installed the new master cylinder on Sunday (Standard single reservoir) and have since taken the car for several 15 to 20 mile drives. It seems to have solved the problem and I am very glad it wasn't a serious problem like a head gasket or cracked head. Ed, I had already ordered the standard master cylinder before your suggestion on the dual chamber upgrade, so I decided to just go that route. Thanks for your help and to all the other member who posted. This forum is a great help to me when I need advice.