Jump to content

Source for gas tank tube fitting?


Beltfed

Recommended Posts

Went to my tubing and hose supply company to source the 1/4" tubing to gas tank fitting. I was informed that it was obsolete and no longer available. Where do you guys buy yours? I was told that old Ford tractors use the same fitting as a person had come in looking for the same thing several years ago for his old tractor. Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey Beltfed! This is a common part, often called the Ford fuel line nut. P/N is B- 9242/3. C& G (760-740-2400) list in their 2011 catalog. Mac's (1-877-230-9680 has it

in their 2014-2015 cat. pg. 92 . It Is called fitting & ferrule gas line set. An older Ford dealer or older repair may even have garage may have it. I have used dozens of them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Beltfed, I hope that you are using the copper coated steel tubing for the line from the tank to the flex line. Plain steel tubing will rust in short order with the alcohol in today's gas. Copper tubing will work harden and split on you causing a fire hazard. The correct tubing and fittings can be bought at Narraganset Reproductions. Some vendors are selling a fuel line that is only plated on the outside. The main rust problem is on the inside. Roy Nacewicz also sells the correct tubing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

19tom40, I'm using copper/nickle brake tubing. It is USDOT approved for brake line service. Being completely non ferris it will never rust. It is very easy to work with many of the little bends are made with your hands. The double inverted flares are a snap to make. It's a little pricey but well worth it to me. Because it is solfer than steel, getting connections to seal (no weeps, seeps, or leaks) is also a snap.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have never tried that for a fuel line. It is much easier to work with than a steel line and does have all of the qualities that you mentioned.

The big concern with the line from the tank to the fuel pump on the flathead Ford products is vacuum leaks. A slight vacuum leak can prevent the fuel pump from priming after sitting for long periods. This is very prevalent on the engines where the fuel pump is above the tank outlet. Ford soldered the ferrule to the line to prevent these leaks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good information Tom. I think I can solder the ferrule. Making a living for many years in electronics prepared me for this.

Another question please. I plan on installing a fuel pump at the gas tank to solve the problem of vapor lock per Mssr. Bwatoe's suggestion. I'm looking on eBay and the pumps have a 1/8" hose barb fitting. Knowing the gas line is 1/4", will this be a problem?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't know what affect it would have on a 12 cylinder, but I would think that such a small orifice would restrict fuel delivery at highway speeds. Mac's sells a 6 volt Carter fuel pump that may have a larger opening.

http://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_mercury_early/electric-fuel-pump-6-volt-2-4-lbs-pressure-top-quality-carter-brand-with-in-line-filter-ford-and-mercury.html

I am not a fan of electric fuel pumps. They seem to be more troublesome than the stock fuel pump with good connections. I drive my 40 Mercury in all kinds of warm temperatures and have never had a vapor lock problem.

A lot of "vapor lock" problems are not that at all. A bad coil can give you weak spark and imitate vapor lock. Jake Fleming reconditions the stock coils and they work better than new. The other source of weak spark is the condensers, the ones from NAPA seem to be better and do not break down under heat as often as the others.

Another cause of "vapor lock" is a clogged or leaking fuel line. The flex line, especially the NOS ones, from the tank line to the fuel pump is the most common source for this. I buy mine from C&G parts in CA.

The Ford and Mercury cars suffer from flooding after shut down, due to the design of the carburetor. The power valve gasket leaks and the gas floods the engine. A properly rebuilt carburetor solve this. The V-12 cars may have the same problem.

I have the flooding problem on my 53 Lincoln in hot weather. I am still trying to find a cure for it. The design of the ignition system does not allow the flooring of the pedal to clear it. If you try that on a 53, you will start your carburetor on fire.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...