DA Interior Dome Light

Decided to refurbish the interior light but have come up with a couple of problems I hope someone can help with.

1. It appears there may be something missing where the wiring connects to the switch. Is this the case and can someone show what it should look like, or should I attempt to change the switch for something else?

2. I want to remove the glass lens to get the surround re-plated, but it appears that the light surround is soldered to the backing plate. Is the only way to remove lens by unsoldering this and if so, what about replacing it after plating? I know it should be Nickel, but will probably chrome it to match some other fittings that are already chrome. I don't want to damage/discolor it after chroming.

Any suggestions appreciated.

John

Uploaded a picture of mine

has a round phonic back plug

there is a screw lock for inserted wire

if closer picture is needed

you can probably just export glass holder back in place after plating

jesse

Close-up

Mine is packed, but I seem to remember spring clips holding the cover to the fixture.

The glass retainer is soldier in 4 corners

you will have to de soldier in order to remove glass then you can rechrome

then expoxy back or a low them soldier

the glass assurance is held to the mount with 2 clips

that the reason for T-slot on cover

put switch in middle then slide back

jesse

Thanks for all the replies and photos, it is really helpful.

Re the glass retainer, that's what I thought but better to find out before I wreck anything.

Re the part of the switch that is missing, I think I may have seen something similar in one of my boxes of bits, but did not know what it was. Will go and see if I can find it again!!

John

Well, the "something similar" that I thought I saw in my box of bits turned out to be just that. Similar but not correct, so I decided to make one. Turned up a bit of nylon stock with a collar to stop it going too far into the light socket. I measured this allowing for the compression of the spring loaded contact. I then cut a piece of clear perspex to the diameter of the light socket and, when inserted in the socket, allowed me to mark where the contact was positioned when switch was "on" and "off". Note that the switch has more travel when the cover holding the glass dome is not in place, so it must be in place to get the positioning correct. I marked these positions with a marking pen, then removed it and drilled a small hole at each mark. I then used it as a template to drill two corresponding holes in the machined nylon piece. The "on" hole I tapped a 1/8 inch thread and screwed in a brass metal thread screw for the contact. The other hole just provides a position for the contact to locate the "off" position more positively. Marked the socket and the nylon piece to align the correct position, the pressed it into the socket. It was pretty firm, but allowed me to re-position if I had not got it right, but it worked well. I then drilled and tapped another hole through the socket to ensure it would not loosen with use and that was it, a bit rough, I know, but it works well. So thanks again to the above respondents for showing me what I needed.

John

John ,Very impressive

God luck with your DA

jesse