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Car Running Rough - '29 Plymouth


racertb

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Posted this on another site and wanted to share here for more feedback...thanks in advance.

All:

As you may know from my previous posts, I've been fighting a timing/running issue for year now. Most recently I've made some slight adjustments to the distributor drive and distributor by removing what appeared to be excess slack/play. I did put a new gear on the distributor as well. Although that may have helped some, I'm certainly not out of the woods yet.

Yesterday I got the car running again (I took a break from it a while and also had to get a new battery) and kept in running for a good 20+ minutes before I turned it off. A minor victory. Before this, I could only get her started and keep her running for a minute or two before she'd slow down and die on me...all this while sitting in the garage. So, not sure if I fixed anything, other than take up the slack in the drives as I mentioned and a new gear.

I am posting three videos below and would like to get your feedback if you have 10 minutes to spare. The first is approximately 8 minutes and shows the car running and it's narrarted by yours truly. The second is of the tailpipe so you can hear how bad the miss is. The third is of the distributor installed on the car (car not running) and the play/wobble shown.

I know I've got an exhaust/intake leak which needs to be fixed (for the second time) that you can see in the video. Not sure if the carb also needs to be rebuilt to help matters, but I have a new float and kit to do so if needed, which I may need to anyway.

Please let me know what you think...thanks.

http://vid947.photobucket.com/albums/ad320/racertb/Car%20Stuff/VIDEO0035_zpsxbzuhsqf.mp4

http://vid947.photobucket.com/albums/ad320/racertb/Car%20Stuff/VIDEO0036_zps0qf6zsrh.mp4

http://vid947.photobucket.com/albums/ad320/racertb/Car%20Stuff/VIDEO0037_zpssktvqdvk.mp4

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I'll add that on my 30U, when I push up on my timing lever, as you do in video #3, mine is very tight with no movement. I don't have any other advice on the other videos, but it seems like you've made a big improvement thus far. Continued good luck in getting it dialed in.

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  • 1 month later...

Here is the latest on my Plymouth. I took some time away from it due to work and other things going on. To summarize the recent happenings:

Exhaust and Intake/Exhaust gaskets changed out, carb taken apart and cleaned, new needle/seat and float. Plugs cleaned, put in another set of points (.020) and condenser. Went back to the "old" distributor cap (good shape and fits "better").

I did send off my base and distributor to Tom Hannaford at Then and Now for inspection. The distributor checked out fine and I did bite the bullet and get a new brass base and drive from him. Mine was showing signs of wear and the hole where the distributor sits was slightly out of round causing the wobble as I've shown in a previous video. No more wobble and hoping this is a good move overall, regardless. At least I know I've done most everything external that I can do to check off the list.

With all of the above, the car had a little trouble starting (carb loading up) but finally got her going. With the exhaust/vacuum leaks fixed, sounded much better and smoother. No more consistent miss out of the tailpipe (another video), just the occasional sputter which is probably normal for these cars (?). I adjusted both the timing and the carb by ear (idle and miture screw) when she was warm to get the smoothest sound possible going off the tailpipe. I did rev her up a few times and ran her through the gears...no hesitation and still sounded great each time I listened at the tailpipe. After about 25 minutes, I shut her down for the evening (this was last weekend).

Back to the carb. She's getting a little wet (even adjusted the new float again), but the idle mixture screw helped a little when I backed it out a half turn to make leaner. Also was part of the "smoothing" process. So what I'm going to do now is replace the regulator (I run a Carter electric fuel pump) with a new one that puts out 1-4 lbs. of pressure (Holley 12-804). The old dial-type regulator is mounted in line just after the fuel pump and I'm thinking two things 1) the new regulator might help me dial in the pressure, and 2) the regulator may need to be mounted closer to the carb, but out of sight. I've seen different thoughts on this...some say needs to be close to the carb, others say it doesn't really matter.

Regardless, I'm hoping to eliminate the occasional flooding/overloading and make things even better...then the road test.

Thoughts on regulator position for those of you running an electric pump and regulator? One day I plan on restoring the vacuum tank and plumbing and seeing how that goes, but not anytime soon.

Ted
 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Good to hear you're making great progress, thanks for the update.

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I am always troubled when people put electric pumps on a vehicle of this era; given that you may not have any other option, you need to remember that the carb needle and seat mechanism were only designed to hold against a supply pressure of less than 1psi with the vacuum fed fuel system.

 

I`m not surprised that you are experiencing carb flooding, if this is your only option I would mount the pump as far away from the carb as possible.

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I made a few adjustments to the carb to lean it out. Much smoother running and sound at the tailpipe. The short road test I did today was good. I think I've used too much choke before when starting. I have not installed the regulator yet and will monitor, since I never had the issue in the past.

Edited by racertb (see edit history)
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