Oil Pan Removal 55 Super

Hello All. I am removing the oil pan to replace the leaking gasket on my 55 Super. I couldn't find any recent posts that address this. I have a feeling that it won't be as easy as I hoped. I got all of the bolts out. Removed the flywheel cover, and it looks like it is still hanging up by a HAIR. Any ideas here would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

Tony M.

You have to drop the idler arm to remove it (if you haven't already).

You have to drop the idler arm to remove it (if you haven't already).

...in addition to removing the exhaust crossover. Be sure the engine mounts are not collapsed or broken and displaced.

Thanks Mike. Idler arm was easy .It was the crossover pipe bolts that were a pain.

Yep.

Thank you Mr. Tank. I only snapped off 1 of the studs out of the 9 bolts. While I have some room, I am now replacing the motor mounts. I am sure they are the originals. Also , I am thinking about wrestling with replacing the exhaust manifold gaskets and freeze plugs. Do you think that I should mess around with the oil pump while I have the pan off ???

Tony, I don't know what the original reason for starting your disassembly was, but you can escalate this into a full "might as well" project really fast. Just a friendly caution.

I wouldn't do the oil pump FWIW. But you might as well do the rear main seal.

D'oh! See what I mean?

Hello Mike. I was just perusing the forum looking for "freeze plug" info. I saw that you had a post and pictures there from 2013 regarding freeze plugs. Do you think that is a job that can be done while the engine is in and while I have it apart this far ? How many plugs are there ?

Thanks

YEPP ....!!!! I am there. MIGHT AS WELL DO THIS WHILE I'M HERE. Since I drive the heck out of that car, Id rather have the problems in my garage instead of on the road. It all started with trying to stop one of the leaks. The oil pan was dripping all over. Gasket was definitely shot. But now that you bring it up, What am I looking at with the rear main ? That's leaking too.

Check Willie's website for info on the rear main. There is also a tool called a "Sneaky Pete" for installing the upper seal if it can't be rigged by this method. There is good info on Nailheadbuick.com about installing them.

Freeze plugs can be installed in the car. I can't imagine replacing the front driver's side without a lift, though.

There are four. I like the brass version from Nailhead Buick. (Russ Martin)

If you remove the pan, you must have a reason. If there is crud in the pan, then I'd remove the oil pump and check that too. It is no big deal - just 2 bolts.

Both clean it and check the clearances. The clearances are important to pump performance.

When you put the pump back together, pack it a bit with Vaseline to aid initial pickup. While rare, I have had a pump not prime after cleaning.

My method to fix rear main leaks without pulling and disassembling the engine: http://www.buickrestorer.com/rearseal/rearseal.html

Willie

Mike , Thanks again for your helpful input.

Hello Don. The main reason that I wanted to remove the oil pan was to replace the leaking around the gasket. Once I got the pan off , I didn't find too much crud in the bottom of the pan and the screen was pretty clean. The oil pressure was good. According to my dash gauge anyway, so I think the pump is doing its job. But like Mike said, it sure can turn in to a "might as well " do this while I'm this far into it. And THAT IT HAS.....

Thanks Tank. Looks easy enough. Where can I get some heater control wire ?

Old Tank,

I was wondering if that old method would raise its head. I have used plain bailing wire to do the job. Not proud of it, but those were the days when you had no money and just wanted to get the thing on the road.

The surprising thing is that it "usually" works OK.

Tony, I understand what you are saying - I know how "accidental restorations" begin.

Don

Thanks Tank. Looks easy enough. Where can I get some heater control wire ?

Either from an old used piece of control cable or the local lawn mower repair shop. Softer wire like baling wire would work, but being softer might increase the frustration level.

Willie

Don, I just like to try to address things before they become a bigger problem. Like replacing the freeze plugs in this case. Then turned into maybe the rear seals. I have no problem doing MORE than what I had originally planned to do while I have everything apart anyways. As long as I don't have to wait to long for the parts.

Ok guys. Looking at these responses , I can see a couple of different fixes for the seal. I looked at that "Sneaky Pete " Tool, and it got a lot of good reviews. And for the price, less than 10 bucks, why not give it a try. The guys that used this tool, also used the actual rope seals. Seems like the best way to go. I just don,t want to go through all of this this only to find out that its worse. Some of the suggestions recommend just plain old wire. And like Don mentions, these methods were used when guys didn't have a lot of money and just wanted to get back on the road.

Tony, I can't agree. You could even try a 2 piece lip seal, and I would not agree with that. Before removing the seal in the block, replace the seal in the bearing cap and then imagine what you would have with the sneaky pete thingy. If the seal in the block is still in place, the wire around the outside just expands the seal against the crankshaft. One other thing: the available replacement seals have a fiberglass core that is nearly impossible to cut and you would need to make 2 cuts with the sneaky pete method. I have done all methods and the wire to expand the seal works best short of removing the engine and disassembling; and if you do that then replace the main bearings, because wear on them has caused the seal to become less effective.

Willie

Just did pan desludging.

Paul . That oil pan looks great. (cant wait for watermelons to be in season ). I was almost hoping to find more sludge than I did to justify all this work , but my pan was pretty clean . A little bit of sediment but nothing too thick and the screen was actually pretty clean. That blue paint looks very close to the Buick Blue. I'm hoping to find a good paint thats pretty oil and heat resistant. What did you use ?

Tank. Thanks for the great advice .... AGAIN. I think I will do the wire thing for the upper, replace the lower seal with the rope seal, and hope for the best. I'm sure I'll be pulling the engine within the next 20 years to do a complete re-do.

One of the things that can affect seal leakage is excessive main bearing clearances. Since you are going to have the cap off anyway, get some Plastigage and check the bearing clearance to be sure it is withing spec. If not, your seal replacement may not be good for long.

Tony, paint is rattle can from CARS.