Another (strange) brake problem

After sitting for most of the Winter I found my '88 Reatta had a "hard" brake pedal and the "low brake pressure" indicator came on the CRT. So, I replaced the Accumulator with a fairly new one form my parts car and it worked at first but then I got the hard pedal again. Now, sometimes it is hard and sometimes it works as it should. I'm dumb founded. Any Ideas Reatta Gurus?

Check the pressure switch connector for moisture.

I did that. didn't seem to be any.

Firewall relay?

John F.

Yep, Changed that out too.

how about the brake pump? i got the "hard pedal" due to that. i lucked out as cleaning the connector with contact cleaner solved the problem.

Definitely worth a try. I'll let you know. Thanks.

I used electronic contact cleaner on the connection....still intermittent??? I'm going to try another relay. Seems to me it must be something like that. Any other ideas?

when you have the "hard pedal", does the brake pump run for a long time?

i'm far from a Teves "expert", but from what i've done and read here and at ROJ, i'd be looking at replacing the pressure switch: http://thereattastore.com/acdelco-25533700-brake-pressure-warning-switch/

hopefully others more knowledgeable will chime in.

EDIT: the firewall relays are the same so exchanging them should show if it's the relay...

I recently had an issue with the pump/motor assembly on my '89.

My son was driving the car and found that he was loosing braking power intermittently then it quit completely.

There was a message on the CRT as well as codes stored but can't remember what they said exactly.

But, they led to my discovery of a failed pump/motor assembly. I didn't narrow it down to which part had failed (pump or motor)

as they come off together. Once replaced and bled, all was right with the world once again.

John F.

Corvanti, no, the pump does not run for an extended time.

M...55, I'm hoping you're wrong, but I have a parts car with good brakes if necessary.

The sequence is..... as the pressure drops, the pressure switch senses the low pressure and turns on the relay that send power to the pump. If it is not the pressure sw, not the relay, not the pump, your car is haunted and should be destroyed.

Second thought, since you have a parts car, move the entire pump assembly (accumulator, pressure sw, pump) to the driver. The hardest part of the move is unplugging the gravity flow line from the reservoir. The pump is only mounted with one screw. Hopefully your brake problem will go away.

your car is haunted and should be destroyed.

John F.

The sequence is..... as the pressure drops, the pressure switch senses the low pressure and turns on the relay that send power to the pump. If it is not the pressure sw, not the relay, not the pump, your car is haunted and should be destroyed.

The pump goes on when I turn the key on so it must be getting voltage.

I'm hopping I don't have to swap it out with the parts car but it is an option. I hope the gremlins don't affect my

'90 convertible or my 5 motorcycles that share the garage.

You need to check for voltage immediately when the pump stops running. Troubleshooting a pump that runs rarely helps find the problem. I would carry tools and meter to check it on the side of the road when it quits.

I hope the gremlins don't affect my '90 convertible or my 5 motorcycles that share the garage.

You must immediately and I mean immediately quarantine that car. This could be the beginning of an outbreak of an even greater magnitude than that of the recent Ebola pandemic! Sir, you have an obligation to the entire community to do the right thing and nip this situation in the bud even if it means putting down the offending vehicle. :eek:

John F.

Ronnie, If you don't mind, how do I check the voltage? Which wire(s) & when.

When I depressurized the system yesterday and turned the key on, the pump did not go on.

You should do these test when the pump will not run.

Disconnect the brake pump relay (on the firewall). Turn the key to the run position.

1 - Check Terminal #2 in the relay connector with the BROWN wire going to it for 12 volts. If you don't have 12 volts check the brake pump relay fuse.

2 - Check Terminal #4 in the relay connector with the RED wire going to it for 12 volts. If you don't have 12 volts check the RUST colored fusible link M.

Next connect a jumper wire between Terminal #4 in the relay connector (RED wire) and Terminal #1 in the relay connector (PINK with BLACK stripe wire). The pump should start. Don't let it run long if it does.

- If the pump does run the relay or the pressure switch is the problem (or the associated wiring).

- If the pump does NOT run... leave the jumper wire in place and remove the connector from the brake pump. Check for 12 volts on the terminal in the connector with the PINK with BLACK stripe wire. If it has 12 volts the motor is probably the problem. If you don't have 12 volts check the wiring.

Hope this helps.

Thanks, Ronnie, I'll let you know.

Well, tests indicate a bad pump. I took the pump off my '89 parts car and found that the line between the pump and master cylinder is metal brake line type fitting (10mm) and the one on the car with the bad pump (which I also removed) (an '88) has a rubber line with a banjo fitting on it (8mm). So, I either need to find an adapter (no luck locally) or swap out the master cylinder as well. That doesn't look like much fun. Any other ideas?

I have an '88 model with the hose. I knew the other models had the metal line but I didn't know if they were interchangeable or not. Now I know. I doubt you will find an adapter.

I wonder if it might be possible for a machine shop to silver solder the fittings from the hose onto the metal line to make it work? Silver solder can sometimes be used to braze different types of metals together if needed.

It would have to be the other way around. The fitting from the metal line would have to be silver soldered to the rubber line as the master cylinder has the hose...the replaced pump has the metal line. I haven't given up on the adapter idea yet but you're splicing idea may be an alternative possibility.

Whatever works...

Problem solved. I went to a place that specializes in hydraulic lines about 7 miles form me and they made a hose with the banjo on one end and 10mm flared fitting on the other while I waited (about 10 minutes). Another Reatta brake "challenge" resolved.

Great! I assume the new pump is installed and running. I hope the intermittent problem with the pump stopping is gone.

I was going to suggest you try a hydraulic shop that specializes in making up hoses, but you beat me.

I've used these services to re-create a brake pressure hose with banjo fittings at either end on Allantes that often rupture.

Beautiful work.

Thanks for all your help, Ronnie

. Maybe something to add to your website.

Thanks for all your help, Ronnie

. Maybe something to add to your website.