1937 Oldsmobile six F37

I have just purchased a 1937 Oldsmobile six and have realized that the front two cylinders closest to the rad seem to be missing. I know the head gasket is gone because my oil is milky and I can physically see it leaking. my question to you guys is would this kill the two cylinders. I pulled the plugs and fired up the engine and I have spark right to the end of the plugs but it makes no difference to engine sound when the wire is removed . also where do I look to find out exactly what motor is in it? I'm pretty sure it's a 230 but would like to find out as much as I can about this car. if it helps the six plugs are located on the top of the motor and the only other thing on the head looks to be the upper rad hose and what may be the oil pressure wire. my question is does the water pump have to be removed as well when removing the head? I need to know this because I assume I will need all of those gaskets as well. thanks

A blown head gasket often occurs between 2 cylinders where they are thin. In that case both cylinders would be affected. When you take the head off you will see. It is also possible the valves are burned or stuck.

It should be possible to change the head gasket just by removing the head.

Have the head checked for warpage by a machine shop and milled if necessary. Clean off the head surface carefully, and clean the bolt holes. If you have the head milled you may have to add washers to prevent the head bolts from bottoming in the holes.

Thank you for the reply Rusty O Tool. As I said before the job looks pretty straight forward I'm just not sure if the head is separate from the water pump Which looks like it may involve a hoist To remove fan and everything???

You should buy a repair manual for your car, it will be worth many times its cost.

From what I can find out the head is not fastened to the water pump. There is a small gap between them. My MoToR Repair Manual does not give any instructions for removing the head, which suggests it is quite a simple job.

Usual procedure is to drain coolant, remove upper rad hose, remove any wires etc. that are fastened to the head, remove head bolts and lift off head. They are quite heavy. It may be possible to lift it off by hand, or you may prefer to use an engine hoist. Depending on your size, upper body strength, and if you have a helper.

With the head off you can inspect the valves and cylinders, checking for wear. And have the head checked for straightness. You need an accurate machinist's ruler for this.

Thanks again Rusty O Tool. I have ordered a original 246 page shop manual off of ebay and am just waiting for delivery. In the mean time I was just fishing on the Internet for advice or procedures/advice. I will be sending the head out once removed for inspection. I really hope it's just the head gasket And not valves or rings etc!

I would highly recommend at least lapping in [valve grinding compound and a valve lapping stick] the valves while the head is off, it's just a bit of time and labor, then you won't have wasted a headgasket if you find that the valves do need work, once you have the head back on.

The other thing to look carefully for is for cracks between valve seats and between valve seats and the cylinder wall, as well as valve seats or cylinder to head bolt threads in the block. If the engine was overheated too often the result can be a cracked block and /or cylinder head as well as the blown head gasket.

Since you don't know the history of your 'new' car, if you lap the valves or do a full valve job, you will know one more important item about your car. When you lap in the valves, you should have an even matt/gray ring on the seat on the valve and in the the block. If there are gaps in the lapped surface or pits, the valves need to be ground and the seats in the block renewed.

Without good compression, your engine will never run a well as it can.

How about a photo of your car?? what body style is it??

GLong