New 1958 Buick request concerning power brakes

Does any have or know where I can get Kent-Moore part Wrench 6618? This wrench is essential to remove the big nut on the inside of the firewall in order to remove the master cylinder unit of a 1958 Buick with Power Brakes. I don't know what it looks like, just know it is essential to get that nut loose.

Hi,

There is a lengthy forum on this topic--Buick's WORST design IMO.

http://forums.aaca.org/f162/how-do-i-remove-brake-booster-261071.html

--Tom

Hi again,

This site lists the wrench--I have no idea what the price is, and no idea if the vendor is reliable or not.

http://www.penybonttools.com/toolsj1toj10000.htm

--Tom

Adam Martin (Smartin) suggested to grab the nut with channel locks and rotate the booster from the firewall side. This worked like a charm for me.

I have done it without the special Kent-Moore tool. Just get a LARGE pair of channel-locking pliers, and do it with them. It's also easier if you remove the front seat from the car, but that depends on how big a guy you are. I'm not very big, so I was able to do it without removing the seat.

Pete Phillips, BCA #7338

Leonard, TX

1958 model 49D

The channel lock idea is very neat and interesting. I had this job done at a Buick dealership in Laurel, MD in 1967 and it took hours. Thinking back now, maybe he did use channel locks or something like it. I was standing right there (before the insurance ruse that keeps customers out of the shop). He obviously did not know about the Kent-Moore tool, or the dealership didn't have it.

Hi again,

This site lists the wrench--I have no idea what the price is, and no idea if the vendor is reliable or not.

http://www.penybonttools.com/toolsj1toj10000.htm

--Tom

Thanks Tom. I wrote to them this morning. Last list was a year ago, so I'm sure many parts are sold by now. Earl

Does anyone KNOW the size of the hex nut (across the flats)? If I get ambitious I'll make a Kent-Moore special tool clone...........Bob

Hi,

A prior thread had a statement that it is 1-3/4".

--Tom

Hi,

A prior thread had a statement that it is 1-3/4".

--Tom

From the prior post......... "As best as I can tell it is about a 1-3/4" nut". I need to know for sure before I commit the machine time/materials. Ideally someone has a nut they can measure with a digital caliper or micrometer. If I get the "for sure" size I'd make two tools. One to keep and the other could circulate as needed, no charge...........Bob

Hi,

@Bob,

All I can tell you is to look at http://forums.aaca.org/f162/how-do-i-remove-brake-booster-261071.html threads 12 and 20, and decide if that's good enough info for you.

--Tom

the poster said that he "thinks" it's "about" 1 3/4". I really need to know the true size of the nut to make a socket to fit it. That thread was valuable in that it showed me what the tool actually looked like. Not so much for dimensions................Bob

If you don't have a second pair of hands to hold the channel locks in place (and you cant get them to wedge into place), use a pair of locking vice grips and spin it from the outside. That was the only way I could get it off my Roadmaster. My Limited was rusted so bad, I had to cut the nut off ...talk about surgery!

Hi,

Thread 12: it is 1-3/4"

Thread 20: Go get a 1-3/4" socket from Sears. Grind either hex or oct flats on the small end.

--Tom

Hi,

Thread 12: it is 1-3/4"

Thread 20: Go get a 1-3/4" socket from Sears. Grind either hex or oct flats on the small end.

--Tom

My apologies, Tom. I didn't read the mentioned thread past the pic of the tool and completely missed your posts #12 and #20 remark. Looks like 1 3/4" it is. Thank you.........................Bob

…. as Mike pointed just do it this way with this setup that I used and yes spinning is involved. Turn it off counter clockwise from outside on the firewall side. Use this type of lock wrench so you can get in there around the brace mounts under the dash. The rubber clamp tool is to enable you to have torque control for spinning the vacuum unit chamber off as this is a good place to attach the tool. Notice where it is attached in the photo. Although the chamber is a heavy thick metal, this is the stingiest point and you very much minimize causing any imperfections to the surface of your chamber if you attach it here. The key mantra here is to use this type of arched lock wrench with the wide mouth. This allows you to effortlessly grasp the large nut after removing the clevis and pin. Then go outside and use the rubber gripping tool to spin it off.

Note: I removed my complete front clip, lower drivers control arm, the entire engine with the transmission attached, the complete steering rack and even the radiator cap before attempting to spin the unit just to give me enough room. ( Just kidding )

Forget about using a socket or a plumbers socket or making a socket by drilling a hole into it like the factory tool.

"Forget about using a socket or a plumbers socket or making a socket by drilling a hole into it like the factory tool"

Or.............You could buy a 1 3/4" 12 point socket (as cheap as $10 on line or as much as $19.99 from sears) Weld on a 8" or so length of pipe, making a very deep socket. Drill a few holes in the pipe for the handle and remove the nut. Real handy for reinstalling the nut too. A 12 point socket gives lots of positioning options.

If the whole wrench project takes more than 30 minutes I'll buy your lunch.....................Bob

them methods seem a little unorthodox especially when trying to turn the booster in a restored engine bay ..

I have done it with ease ..using some spray a hammer & correct long solid counter punch with an end like a thick screwdriver head... u can make your own flat head punch .. & with a couple of knocks counter clockwise it unscrewed with no damage to large nut ... I used this method for tightening back on too

Hi,

As my Old Man Pappy Maverick used to say, "There's more than one way to roll a Seven..."

--Tom

Hello Dynaflash,

I was able to purchase this tool last year off ebay. Attached please find two pictures. I measured 1.76" between the hex - so it IS for a 1-3/4 nut.

Chris

Bhigdog, Pretty spot on with your tooling design, based on Chris_58's original Kent Moore Tool 6618!!

Bhigdog, Pretty spot on with your tooling design, based on Chris_58's original Kent Moore Tool 6618!!

Yup. Outright shameless pirate copy. No use inventing the wheel. Use of a 12 point socket is an improvement though. .......................Bob

I like pirates.

ARRRRGH Matey. Where be da wenches?........................bob

Well it all looks good but unless your mom and dad were from the Circus, you will find that the mounting firewall bracket is in the way but you can just barely get the socket in there after many attempts, then it is whole another story in " Effectively" turning the socket and getting the pin arm into your drilled holes. You will be fighting it and perhaps faint from the seat compression in you chest area unless you are a small chested man and what small chested man drives a Buick? So regarding spinning it off with a detailed engine bay, I did and I would eat my dinner off of my fender wells or firewall. One has a lot of room to do the spinning as nothing is in your way other than laying over the engine. Of course buick man has a tight 33 inch raw-hide stretched over steel abs waistline otherwise if you don't a pillow over the engine would be advised. The key here is this special wide round mouth vis grip used to take off stubborn oil filters and for doing piping work as shown in my photo. It took about 5 minutes to take the unit off via spinning it once the vice grip was applied. It took 1 minute tops to slide into the tight position between the seat and floor board area and apply the vis grip. Using the wrench and socket would of made me faint from being dexterity challenged.

Truth be known the least elegant but most effective way to remove the nut is mentioned by coupekid in post #18. I've removed/reinstalled my unit 4 times by that method. After the first time I milled 6 slots in the nut's edges to give the punch places to grab. EasyPeasy with no monkey motion required...........Bob

Truth be known the least elegant but most effective way to remove the nut is mentioned by coupekid in post #18. I've removed/reinstalled my unit 4 times by that method. After the first time I milled 6 slots in the nut's edges to give the punch places to grab. EasyPeasy with no monkey motion required...........Bob

I have also used this method with success, but think I will try a socket next time just for fun

Hi,

I hope everyone doing this job knows to use Never-Seize on the threads when re-assembling this beast. The next time it has to be done, you will be blessed--not cursed--by the mechanic doing it.

--Tom

I have also used this method with success, but think I will try a socket next time just for fun

That's the solution the Buick engineers thought best and I tend to agree. Everyone bitches about the job, and the first time you it, it is a *****. But once it's been done a time or two and you know what tools to bring and how to use them it's really not that bad. Once you're prepared it's no more that a 20 minute job to get the unit out...........Bob

Unfortunately, the guy who "specializes" in rebuilding these isn't good at his job and makes you have to do it several times.

Unfortunately, the guy who "specializes" in rebuilding these isn't good at his job and makes you have to do it several times.

Too true, too true, Mike. At least I figured out what he either couldn't or wouldn't................Bob

Too true, too true, Mike. At least I figured out what he either couldn't or wouldn't................Bob

That's the pirate way, sir.

Makes you want to go "ARRRRRGGGHHH"