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Using Iron Out to derust an old cylinder block??


Hemi Joel

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I was thinking about using Evapo Rust to clean out the water jackets in my cylinder block. But it is quite costly, and takes over a week to get. Then I remembered how well Iron Out works to clean the rusty toilet tank. I am quite certain that it would clean the water jackets well, but would it cause any damage? Is it is acidic? the engine will be completely torn down, so I could do the derusting while it is all together then finish up after it is apart.

thanks, Joel

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I was thinking about using Evapo Rust to clean out the water jackets in my cylinder block. But it is quite costly, and takes over a week to get. Then I remembered how well Iron Out works to clean the rusty toilet tank. I am quite certain that it would clean the water jackets well, but would it cause any damage? Is it is acidic? the engine will be completely torn down, so I could do the derusting while it is all together then finish up after it is apart.

thanks, Joel

Take the block to a machine shop and have it hot tanked. Just be aware that most machine shops these days use steam degreasers, not a real hot tank, as the hot tank will attack aluminum engine blocks (which is why hot tanks eat up cam bearings). You'll need to ask around to find a real hot tank.

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Guest Bob Call

I have a 331 Chrysler hemi block I got from a cousin who died in 2010. He torn down the engine in 2002 and took it to a machine shop and had it hot tanked (real caustic bath) and magnafluxed. He did not put any protective coating on the block and it now has surface rust over the entire block inside and out. What can be done to use this block? Hone lifter bores, surface block deck and pan rails, wire brush main bearing cap mating surfaces? Appreciate any suggestions and help.

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I have a 331 Chrysler hemi block I got from a cousin who died in 2010. He torn down the engine in 2002 and took it to a machine shop and had it hot tanked (real caustic bath) and magnafluxed. He did not put any protective coating on the block and it now has surface rust over the entire block inside and out. What can be done to use this block? Hone lifter bores, surface block deck and pan rails, wire brush main bearing cap mating surfaces? Appreciate any suggestions and help.

Hot tank it again, then have it remachined. Chase all the threaded holes with a tap. Get a set of correctly-sized "bottle brush" hones to clean up the lifter bores and other critical small diameter holes. Use scotchbrite disks to clean up flat surfaces like the cap mating surfaces.

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Hot tank it again, then have it remachined. Chase all the threaded holes with a tap. Get a set of correctly-sized "bottle brush" hones to clean up the lifter bores and other critical small diameter holes. Use scotchbrite disks to clean up flat surfaces like the cap mating surfaces.

Then, if you don't plan on finishing it right away, make certain you preserve it properly so that does not happen again.

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Another good derusting method is the electrolysis method. All you need is a non metal container full of water with a handful of washing soda, and a battery charger. This will remove rust but not attack good metal. Full details if you do a web search, there was a good explanation on a tractor forum but I forget exactly where. It is not a very complicated process.

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Another good derusting method is the electrolysis method. All you need is a non metal container full of water...

Agreed, however the problem often is finding a large enough plastic container at a reasonable price. Over on H.A.M.B. a few years ago, there was a thread about a person who used a swimming pool-sized plastic tank to build an electrolysis bath for his 1950s Chrysler body.

Of course, he had a fork lift, too.

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Guest Bob Call

Joe, Keiser & Rusty

Thanks for the responses. I might try the electrolysis method and if not satisfactory follow Joe's advice. I have the crank and cam he pulled when he tore down the engine. I've had them since the tear down. I cleaned them with diesel fuel and have keep annually sprayed with gun lube. No rust on either.

My original plan was to bore the 331 block to a 354, but, in 2003 I found a complete, never torn down, 354 and used that block bored to use 392 pistons which makes it a 364 (4 X 3.625). Going into an old school hot rod (not rat or street) Model A on 32 frame. In keeping with the spirit of the AACA the body was too rough for restoration, and, front axel and spindles and running board splash aprons sold to a local Model A guy. The frame is a repo made by a local guy to Henry's specs but with the k member built to accept a GM TH350/400. I have a Hilborn mechanical fuel injection that will be set up for a street engine, it can be done. I hope to have that car finished before I die. Right now working on getting my 52 Imperial on the road this summer.

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On another board there was a thread by a guy who rebuilt a Dodge 318 V8. The engine came out of an early sixties car in a junkyard and had been left sitting with no carburetor for years. He derusted the block and heads in a 45 gallon plastic barrel. After treatment the pistons came out easily even though the cylinders were badly rusted in the beginning.

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I've used Iron Out to de-rust a Lincoln 430 Intake manifold that had been totally rusted from outside storage. I immersed the manifold in a plastic storage box with water and added the entire bottle of Iron Out (Not sure what the dilution should be for this use). I used a small cheap plastic pump (like would be used in a small fish tank) to circulate the solution. After 24 hours the manifold was rust free, and the solution held much of the rust in suspension. After drying, the manifold must be painted or otherwise protected as it will quickly rust again.

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Thanks for the replies, all of them helpfull. Hellerc, that is the info I was looking for. So no problem using the iron out?

As for my project, in this instance I am mostly concerned with cleaning out the water jacket. I found out that Oreilys Auto Parts sell Evaporust, and they could get it in 1/2 day. So I got 5 gallons, and tonight I filled up the complete block/head assembly. Tommorrow I will drain it and remove the side covers to see how it looks in there. Evaporust is not acidic, won't harm aluminum or rubber, and is non toxic.

Bye for now, Joel

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Since the block has been tanked there should be no paint or grease.

Find a tank large enough to submerge it and mix up some molasses from your local feed store at 7 parts water to 1 part molasses.

In a week or ten days the rust will be gone and the metal will be untouched and the 5 gallons of molasses only costs about twelve bucks if my memory serves.

Hose it off and spray with Wd-40 or the likes. Better yet, dry it off and paint the outside first.

Totally environmentally friendly, you will get some mold action, but that doesn't hurt a thing. And you can dump it in the rain drain with good conscience.

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Here are the results of using Electrolysis cleaning method for a portable generator gas tank that had water/rust build up over a 6 month period. The solution used was a scoopful of Arm and Hammer soda washing detergent and hot water with 6 amps from a battery charger over an eight hour period. The closer the Anode is to the rusted area, the better the results. In this case the tank was the negative Cathode, and the Anode was a piece of flat cold rolled steel suspended inside the tank. As for a container to immerse the engine block, Rubber Maid offers large 20" X 40" Totes from Home Depot/Lowes for less than $20. If larger is needed, make/use a wooden box and line it with a tarp. Doesn't get much cheaper than this.

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Edited by Friartuck (see edit history)
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