Body mounts for 64 Riviera

Gentlemen,

Am I counting the number of mounts that I need correctly? Ten total body mounts. Going down one side: Two on the fire wall, one above the rear axle kick up, one at the front of the trunk pan (the area prone to rust,) and one on the rear end of the frame.

That's not counting the mount on each side of the radiator core support. So if I could see them all (hard to get under the car where it's sitting) there are ten body mounts and two core support mounts.

What has been your experience and from whom did you get yours. Any thoughts / experience will be appreciated. Any pictures of a frame with new mounts in place?

Thanks,

Ed

All of mine, except the two oval ones at the rear are 1976 Chevy full size B-body. The oval ones are original, they were not crushed or cracked.

In 1994 or 1995 in just went to the local Chevy dealer and ordered a bag. Its a test. The car sits nice and they are holding up well. If they do well for the next twenty years I'll keep them.

I nailed three 2X4's together into supporting blocks to rest the body over the frame. That gave me finger room to get everything where I wanted it. And I lowered the last few inches gently.

Put the steering column in last. It is a lot easier than trying to line it up while lowering the body.

I have had the body off twice and it is not hard to do alone. The second time I found I didn't have to drop the gas tank to do it.

Bernie

You are correct, the two rear most ones are oval. I never found oval bushings. The ones CARS sells fit just fine if you notch the round ones to fit the hole. Save your metal sleeves that are inside the bushings, the kit only comes with rubber replacements.

I ordered set #BMK635 from CARS after taking some measurements from the old mounts. If you look at the picture of that kit, you'll see two mounts (cushions - I don't know which is which) that are different color in the ad. Those two are the same dimensions as the two core support mounts. I'm only lifting the body far enough to install the new mounts. I'll let you know how that experience goes.

I was amazed at how much less expensive the kit from CARS was than from other vendors and especially how much it saved over buying individual pieces from OPGI. Thanis, Jeff.

Ed

If I was doing a slip under on another car I would first remove the bolts from the rear kick up and leave them until last to reinstall. That point can get a lot of leverage as you move things around. Its is probably the most sensitive pressure point of all.

The amount of weight carried by the oval rear mounts is minimal. On my car they were the only ones that showed no sign of crushing and when the body is loose it is easy to see how little weight is there. If I really wanted to replace them I would get a pair of tri-five Chevy motor mounts and shim as required.

Bernie

Bernie, thanks for the tip. I can see where the kick up mounts would act as a fulcrum for everything else if you were to start on one end and work you way to the other end. Kind of like the old inventory principle - last in, first out. Luckily the shop in which my car is taking up residence right now has a lift that I think will work well. Loosen all the bolts and steering column, leave the frame on the ground and use the lift to raise the body just enough to R&R the mounts.

Any other hints will be appreciated.

Be careful removing the bolts, my back four were all rusted bad. Break them loose and 'see saw' them out....tighten them, loosen a bit, run the bolt back in, loosen a bit as if to 'tap' themselves out. You dont want to have them or the nutplate break. The four up front you can see the nuts from the top, so soak them in your favorite penetrating oil. The two near the spring perches in the rear, I removed with a small hand wrench, no rust what so ever (your experience may differ )

The second bolt from the rear on the right side of mine spun in the cage for the nut. It is an enclosed spot with no access. I took careful aim with a 3/4" hole saw and went in through the trunk floor. One of these days I am going to snap a knockout plug in there. Or maybe I'll find a 3/4" round tuit.

There are two options with the steering column; take it out and never know the fun you missed or sell me the rights to the movie of you wiggling it back in place without removing it.

Bernie

I ordered set #BMK635 from CARS after taking some measurements from the old mounts. If you look at the picture of that kit, you'll see two mounts (cushions - I don't know which is which) that are different color in the ad. Those two are the same dimensions as the two core support mounts. I'm only lifting the body far enough to install the new mounts. I'll let you know how that experience goes.

I was amazed at how much less expensive the kit from CARS was than from other vendors and especially how much it saved over buying individual pieces from OPGI. Thanis, Jeff.

Ed

Ed,

The dimensions of the 2 colored mounts are exactly the same as the Steele mount in this thread:

http://forums.aaca.org/showthread.php?t=383048&p=1362904#post1362904

So, they will fit as I used these in a `64 a few months ago. Do you know what the dimensions of the other mounts, BM 635, in the Cars kit are?

The nomenclature on the Cars site is confusing/contradictory. Buick called the upper part between the body and the frame a "mount" and the rubber donut which installs from underneath or the bottom an "insulator". Cars uses the word "cushion" to describe both a mount and an insulator on their website.

Tom

I used the Cars body mounts,and I didn't remove steering or disconnect column,you don,t need much room to get the cushions

in place. I also used rear oval ones again,and had to rebuild one trunk pocket one of the best things I did to my 65 .

I assume your bumpers are removed.Good luck you will enjoy results.

Gord.

The only things that are not removed on my car are the steering column and the parking brake cable. EVERYTHING else is on a shelf or in a box. (If one of the previous owners didn't cannibalize the car)

Ed