1926 steering half nuts

Does anybody know where to find a half nut that would fit a 1926 standard six? I grabbed a spare a while back that I was told fitted the car but it's about 1/2" too short and doesn't have the slots cut in the top for grease

Mine seems to be fairly badly worn and I'm not sure if that was caused by someone converting it from steam oil to grease at some point in its life that has caused it damage. It has grooves essentially cut into it that are probably a mm or 2 so consequently the steering doesn't feel particularly nice and binds up. Alternatively if there is anyway to dial it out safely through adjustment or filing.

I can't get it to go back together now without being way way too tight or way way too loose, any suggestions? the book is pretty useless in that it just tell you to put it together the same way it came apart.

hidden_hunter,

I agree, the Shop Manual is pretty general overall. Not the detailed instructions one would find in more modern shop manuals. I have an issue with my steering as well, seems to be a couple of tight spots when turning to right. Will be addressing this myself in the near future. Hopefully, someone will weigh in who has been down this road.

hidden_hunter,

I agree, the Shop Manual is pretty general overall. Not the detailed instructions one would find in more modern shop manuals. I have an issue with my steering as well, seems to be a couple of tight spots when turning to right. Will be addressing this myself in the near future. Hopefully, someone will weigh in who has been down this road.

The steering doesn't seem to have changed significantly for a few years, only different parts. So perhaps one of the other books has a better explanation

It has been about forty years since I pulled one apart, but the large hexagonal adjuster screw above the steering box is turned to remove any play in the steering, If you tighten it up too much it locks the steering up, Loosen off the lock ring so you can turn the adjuster. When installing the two half nuts, ensure they are centrally spaced in the middle of the steering column worm, or you won,t have full lock to lock steering or the wheel turns further one way than the other. Ensure the halves go in the correct way or the steering wheel turns in the opposite direction to the wheels, there is a left and right half nut. When installing, you have to put the two halves in place around the steering column worm/gear and then slide the lot into the steering box. I seem to remember I had to do this a few times until I got it right. If the steering has tight spots it may be due to a worn ( or lack of oil) thrust bearing at the top of the steering box or worn or sticking yoke rollers at the bottom of the box. The half nuts move up and down the steering worm/ gear, in opposite directions pushing against the steering yoke rollers and tuning the steering yoke

Being made from bronze these can wear badly on a well used vehicle.

Most of the wear is in the middle section of the half nuts which is their position while driving straight ahead and normal steering corrections required whilst driving on road surfaces.

The top and bottom third of each half nut tends not to wear the same as it only comes into use on sharper turns.

This uneven wear on the half nuts is what causes the adjustment problem. Correct adjustment with the nuts set in the straight ahead position results in jamming at the extremities ( sharp left or right turns ). Correct adjustment at the extremities result in too much steering play and a tendency to wander when driving straight.

I have always searched for a set in good condition to use and this means examining a few steering boxes to get the best pair. A machine shop may be able to make the thread on the half nuts uniform ( ie give the entire thread the same amount of wear ) which may allow better adjustment.

As Rod W mentioned, make sure you get the half nuts in the right side, bit confusing when you roll out of the shed the first time and turn the wrong way!!!

Well the good news is, I managed to get the steering right again thanks to the advice from Rod.

The bad news is the car slipped off the jack when I was lowering it and dented the oil pan. I'm guessing that doesn't come off with out taking the engine out of the car, happy to be corrected of course

I recently had the oil pan off my 1926 standard for cleaning and inspection, no need to remove the engine. Did mine in one afternoon. You will probably have to make new cork gaskets. Or you could order them from Olson's Gaskets.

As a side note, I had the car supported with 4 jack stands on the lowest position and securely blocked while working under the car.

I recently had the oil pan off my 1926 standard for cleaning and inspection, no need to remove the engine. Did mine in one afternoon. You will probably have to make new cork gaskets. Or you could order them from Olson's Gaskets.

As a side note, I had the car supported with 4 jack stands on the lowest position and securely blocked while working under the car.

I've undone all the bolts on the left and right side (10 or so each side) and it still seems stuck on tight - are there any other bolts? I'm wondering if someone has used a gasket cement at some stage.

I count 10 / side as well, in addition, I had to remove the flywheel housing plate. (4bolts)

I count 10 / side as well, in addition, I had to remove the bell housing plate. (4bolts)

hmm, exactly what I removed and it still seems firmly attached. I gave it a light tap with a hammer and a piece of wood to try and free it up but doesn't seem to want to move. I guess the next step is to try a razor blade to see if there is some gasket cement holding it in place

(thankfully I have the gasket)

Often, folks will use a tough gasket sealer on a pan gasket, making it really difficult to break the pan loose once the bolts are removed.

What I do in a case like that,is put a longer bolt in one of the middle holes on each side of the pan (usually 5/15 coarse thread), use a screwdriver and drive it into the gasket in several places, being careful not to bend the lip of the pan, and get the gasket to break loose.It may take some force since the pan is fairly long with lots of surface.

With the long bolts, you can work directly under the pan without the danger of the pan dropping and hitting you. The long bolts will limit the drop.

After that you can use a jack to hold the pan while you remove the long bolts. thenj drop the pan

Don, the long bolts are good advice for whenever you remove an oil pan. Thanks. I will remember that one!