Jump to content

Model 20 oil leaks


1912Minerva

Recommended Posts

Hello Huppers,

I've got my Model 20 engine running again after reinstalling engine and gearbox earlier this year. It starts very easily but am having trouble getting it to run smoothly on the NH Holley carb I have put on it (I think float level is too high). Anyway, one issue is the amount of oil spraying out of the front of the motor between it and the flywheel. I placed a felt seal in there when I had the motor out but it is not catching a lot of the oil - what do other do here to seal in the oil? is there a modern oil seal that fits here? The good news is I have cured the oil spray out of the magneto drive cover thanks to Max's suggestion of a thin metal baffle.

Also still getting a bit of a whining noise so am thinking the cam shaft gear is meshed a bit too tight with the crankshaft gear - the Hup 20 manual I have says the gasket thickness for the camp shaft plate should be about the "thickness of a playing card" which is about what I have (or were playing cards much thicker back in 1911?). What do you suggest as a good thickness?

Regards to all,

Andrew.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

post-31482-143142991633_thumb.jpg

I always take it with a grain of salt when someone says "well, that's how it was when it was new....", but in this case, it's somewhat true. The front seal of the engine slung a lot of oil, and in fact there was a factory "fix" that added a metal shield above the flywheel and above the front seal, so that the oil wouldn't get slung to underneath the hood.....my car didn't have it, but I found one and added it because I was tired of wiping off the hood and the hood sills....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I get a little seepage from the front bearing but only enough to leave a fine linear spray on the inside of the hood. Magneto leakage has never been a problem. My issue is lots of oil the spews out the breather pipes and runs down the side of the crankcase -Karl

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm no expert on these matters, but would think that oil coming out of the breather pipes would mean one of two things, overfilled crankcase or rings allowing pressure into crankcase. I had that problem when I first started my Hupp long ago, prior to new pistons and rings. It was partially solved by putting a piece of Scotchbrite stuffed down each breather pipe....still let it breathe, but captured the oil before it came out....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

David I think probably it is due to the petcock upstands being slightly longer than they should be. I looked at them when I pulled the engine apart and even posted some pictures here The consensus was they where ok and I was to scared to shorten them up as the car is running so well now. The oil is only a minor nuisance really. The compression is really good I'd be very surprised if the rings need doing. Karl

Link to comment
Share on other sites

g,day huppers. Unfortuneatly when whosomever drew up this engine they put the breathers on the wrong side of the crankcase where the rotation of the crank throws the oil up the breathers. Davids pot scourers shoved down the tubes will work . A good idea is to put a split pin or roll pin below the gauze to slow its migration into the crankcase. Unfortunately this makes oil top up a slower task. When these engines were used in the Little and Whiting the breathers were improved. The front main has an oil collector groove or labarinth with an oil drain at the bottom through to the bearing back and a further drain hole along the bearing to let the oil run back into the crankcase. Crankcase pressure tends to shove oil backwards up the drain groove and out behind the flywheel. David your observation that the flywheel cover baffle cleverly catches the oil and drops it to the engine tray from where it runs to the ground in one main pool making it easier to catch for our good host at the motel who are often not pleased by oil on the clean axess. Interesting that Little made the camshaft gear removable without melting out the bearings. As to the cam gear mesh, with the magneto drawn aside the backlash can be felt by hand. Check it in four places. Never use cork in the cam box gasket as it continues to compress each time the cap screws are tightened. Max Burke Nulkaba 2325 Australia

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest 1910_Anon

Not to steal the thread or anything but this brings up something I have noticed and wondered about.

When I removed the felt oil seals in my car, they were fairly stiff and full of well oxidized oil that had turned to gum. These worked very well. After changing them to new felt, the oil leaks out quite nicely. I changed them 12 years ago and this winter, the felts are still nice and wet with oil just as if they were new.

I have wondered if the old oil turning to gum was how these things were meant to work in the first place. Modern oils do not gum up as readily as old formulations.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Max I never knew that the Hupp engine was used in any other vehicle . I found this picture of a 1912 Little and sure enough its our beloved engine . More importantly it shows me how to mount a fan (I have searched and searched for a photo of Hupps accessory fan) Also I am intriqued by the way the rods are set up allow advance and retard of the mag. Karl

http://www.conceptcarz.com/view/photo/399493,16959/1912-Little-Roadster_photo.aspx

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...