1990 Buick Riviera won't start

Battery only 2 weeks old...went to start it today and nothing...all the lights,radio,power antenna are working...go to try to turn the car over and wont start...I dont have an active security system enabled...I dont really hear any clicking sounds when I turn the key...has been very cold here for the month since I bought the car...Electrical Problem light had been going on and off for the past 3 days...but I thought that was because of the cluster being out which I have but havent replaced yet...what would be the simplest solutions first to check...I usually have friends work on my car since I dont really know anything and the car is outside and not in a garage...trying to see if there is something easy to check first...from what I've been told it seems like its just the starter...but I'd like any other opinions...any help would be greatly appreciated...thank you so much

You said you don't have an active security system enabled. Do you have a small pellet in your ignition key? If so, then I'll bet that's the problem. The pellet wears out as you use the key and the result is that the GM internal security system prevents you from starting your car. I've had that happen to my '89 & '91 Camaros and '97 Buick.

Got around the problem in my Camaros by bypassing the security system at the base of the steering column.

I do have the small pellet in the ignition key...I just bought the car 3 weeks ago and wasnt told by previous owner that the car had a security system enabled...I have all her receipts from her mechanic from the last 8 years and I didnt see anything on the invoices where the security system was addressed...if that helps any

Does the starter turn the engine over but fail to run, or do you get no sounds when you turn the key?

Is the gearshift in Park or Neutral? If so I would look for a faulty switch or relay.

If all the lights etc. work, that indicates the battery is ok. No click indicates power is not getting to the starter. Put them together and it suggests a fault in the security system, wiring or neutral safety switch.

Under the circumstances it might be best to wait for warmer weather or have the car towed to a garage.

The key looks like its in great condition...the security pegs not worn down at all if that means anything...I tried starting it in park and neutral...didnt work...the car doesnt turn over at all or catch and stall...ive heard the clicking before on other cars and I didnt hear it in this case

It could be a bad ignition switch, a bad relay, a bad starter, a bad neutral safety switch or probably some other items that I have not thought of. Do you have a volt ohm meter? With a meter and a little bit of time you could find out which. Where are you located? Perhaps someone nearby would be able to help you with some troubleshooting. I would first check for voltage at the starter connections when turning the key.

This is a long shot but I have seen it work. Sometimes a light tap on the side of the starter case will make a starter work if it happened to stop at a bad point in the starter. While someone else turns the key, lightly tap the side of the starter with a hammer. If this makes it work, you might get away with it for a short time, but I suggest you go ahead and replace the starter as soon as possible.

I live in Buffalo so the weather isnt too conducive to alot of troubleshooting outside and not in a garage...I would have to check around to see if I had a volt ohm meter...was hoping to try something this weekend as much as I could from suggestions here and then if all else fails, find a shop around here that can look at it on Monday...I dont know if I would have to find a specific shop that works on cars as old as mine...I have done the hammer thing years and years ago and it has worked...lol...I was just wondering that if the car does start after tapping it with the hammer does that mean that the starter is the issue..that would be good to know so then I know exactly what needs to be repaired

It could be the starter or it could be something totally different. You (or a mechanic or someone else) would have to use a meter to measure some voltages to be sure which it is.

If the hammer trick works, Yes, you need to replace the starter.

Electric problem light has been going on and off for three days.

The lights work, but could still be something as simple as a very low battery.

Or maybe something is frozen.

Electric problem light has been going on and off for three days.

The lights work, but could still be something as simple as a very low battery.

Or maybe something is frozen.

Tried starting it again when it was a little warmer...nothing changed...and the battery is good...that probably the only definate in this whole scenario...lol...hoping its just the starter...called a local shop and they can take me on monday and let me buy the starter myself...and they quoted the labor as $105...i just have to uope the problem is the starter...im going to do the hammer test tomorrow...hopefully that clears thing up...you can tell im a real technician...lol

Before you blow a lot of dough on a starter you may not need, see if you can get the car to an auto electric shop or mechanic for testing.

If you belong to the Auto Club they will tow it for free. If you don't, you have to be a member for a week before you can use this service.

Yes, before you spend too many $$ on the car, try a few thing yourself. It may be the Vehicle Anti Theft System (VAT) giving you trouble, either because the ignition key pellet or your internal ignition switch is wearing out. Google Buick VAT for horror stories.

First, try a simple trick. Sounds stupid but has saved me a few times. Moisten your ignition key pellet with your saliva. Get it nice and wet. then try starting the car. Sometimes the saliva is enough to "fix" the VAT system. If the car starts, then you know you need either a new key or ignition switch.

Second, what happens when the car does not start? When you turn the key to the first position, do all the dashboard lights go on? Then when you turn the key to start the engine, do all the dashboard lights go out? And the is absolutely no sound of a click or buzz or anything? This points to your VAT. sometimes you'll get a small blinking "security" message on the dash. Look for that.

If if you take it to a shop, ask if they have experience with VAT and your non-start problem. Could save you the cost of a starter & Installation. Some places like PEP Boys have a non-start diagnosis for a flat fee of $90 or less.

Whatever happens, let us know.

Did you put jumper cables on from a running car? Put them on and leave them hooked up ten or fifteen minutes. The higher voltage of a running car might overcome some electrical weakness your car has.

UPDATE: Bought a new starter and took it to a mechanic...said I had the wrong one and had to get the Mitsubishi one with the gear reduction that was twice the price...I guess I have the Luxury Edition of the Riviera...oh I feel so fancy...lol...so they put that in and now they had a problem with the security...car would start every 10 minutes or so after the security light went on...they just put a ignition lock cylinder in now but they have to have the key cut at a dealership in the morning...hoping that this will be the fix...if it isnt I was told it could be the module then...125 for the starter with 100 in labor...cylinder is 45 with 30 to cut the key and another 100 labor...and hopefully that is it...or it will be 3 dollars for a gallon of gas and I'm lighting the damn car on fire...lol...thanx for everyone's help.

A factory service manual would certainly be helpful. It sounds like you may have not needed the starter, I hope you did not waste your money on an unneeded part. Following a systematic troubleshooting flow chart is the cheapest way to solve a mystery like this one. In any case, If you replace the starter, the ignition lock cylinder, and the key, you will have replaced most of the potential problems so you should soon have it running fine. If those don't solve the problem, come back here and I am sure someone can talk you through the troubleshooting process to solve it.

A good locksmith can replace the ignition key - you shouldn't need the dealer. I've done this on two Chevy Camaros and 2 Buick Regals with VATS pellets on the ignition key.

Another option, which seems scary but has worked for me on my 1989 Camaros. Measure the resistance (ohms) or the ignition key pellet ( I believe Camaros had 17 different values). Then buy a resistor that matches your value and splice it into VATS wiring leading to the ignition switch - it's at the base of the steering column. this will bypass the factory VATS. Sounds complicated but really isn't. Involves cutting two wires and inserting the resistor between them.. You can always revert to factory original by rejoining the two wires.

I did this to my 1989 Camaros because the pellet was wearing out & I didn't want to replace the ignition lock. Been working fine for over 4 years now.

Google "bypassing VATS on GM car" for step by step instructions.

Just got the call from my mechanic...the car is running...he said that the problem was a broken wire at the tumbler...it took them all morning to find it so its going to cost some extra labor, but at least everything is figured out...I guess it was a big pain to get to because the car wont be ready until Monday morning...they have to put it all back together...the steering wheel had to be taken off and the center console...I'm just glad its done...so it was a new starter, ignition lock cylinder and the wire that was the reason for the car not starting...thanx for all the help from everyone...I'll definitely come back here for advice on my next problem that comes up...and it will...hopefully not soon...lol