1925 Master exhaust valve

The exhaust valve for my 1925 Master has a flange broken off plus a couple of cracks to the valve body. The moving valve parts including external crank, shaft, and valve disk should to be disassembled before I start brazing on the casting. There are 2 fasteners holding the valve disk to the cross shaft - marked by red arrows in the photo. Are these pins, rivets, or screws ? Should I just drill these out ? I plan to plug the cross tube leading from the exhaust valve back to the carburetor.

Kevin

Kevin, It looks like it has slots in the head to screw in. If it was me, I would just turn it to the open position and leave it. trying to remove the butterfly may cause more problems/ damage. As you don,t really need to use the heat now for starting.

On My 25 Standard the first time I took the Carb off I found the butterfly laying loose.The screws or whatever held it on had rusted off.I removed it completely and plan to plug the pipe with a freeze plug.Then It will be able to connect back with the carb to look original

One ear on the exhaust side mounting flange is missing. The exhaust pipe will never hold a seal against the valve if only 1 bolt holding it together. I can braze a chunk of 1/4 steel plate to the cast valve body in place of the original cast flange, then grind / drill as needed to the original flange shape. Before I do all this heating & grinding, the small crank arm needs to get out of the way, or else it gets damaged. see circled area.

Kevin

What It looked like on mine were tiny screw heads with not much of a slot in them.They were still attached to the butterfly.If you are going to plug the pipe anyway I would just drill them out and discard the butterfly

and put the shaft back in when you get through welding so it will look original.