Cam magnet replacement

I have read Padgett's cam magnet replacement tutorial A few times now. Is this something that a novice backyard mechanic can handle easily?

Should be able to, the only hard part is geting the new and modified magnet in the hole.

I had two issues to deal with since I bought my '91. The stereo which is another post and a error code 041. I finally replaced the cam sensor today and the code when away. Hip Hip Hooray! That being said, the car idles and runs so much better, it's amazing. My other two Reattas always ran so smoothly and I was hoping the 041 was the issue with a rough idle and it was in spades. For anyone with a 041 issue and the much harder magnet replacement, it is worth it to take the time and effort to sole this problem. The joy of a smooth and more powerful performance is worth it!

I have read Padgett's cam magnet replacement tutorial A few times now. Is this something that a novice backyard mechanic can handle easily?

I procrastinated for probably 6 months on tackling the cam sensor interrupter (magnet) replacement. I never could detect any idle or otherwise issues on my '89. When I finally got around to the repair, all that was left of the old magnet assemble was a small piece of plastic. It was brittle and disintegrated when I poked on it. I used carb cleaner and Q-Tips to THOROUGHLY clean the area until NO more residue come off on the Q-Tip. I then cleaned the area a few times with denatured alcohol before installing the modified new magnet. As to the magnet itself, ALL I did was use my dremel tool to remove the latches on the magnet such that the cylinder was the same diameter all the way down the length. I did a few dry fits using a 1/4" drive extension to hold the magnet as I did the dry fit. I used a fair amount of JB Weld, coating the magnet cylinder as well as putting a thin coating on the opening in the cam gear hole.

Next day, I closed everything up, installed a new sensor (might was well since they are not really expensive), and it fired up perfectly. No more E041. This is definitely a very doable DIY repair, unless you have issues with getting your hands greasy.

Now to tackle a very intermittent, cold weather related E043 (knock sensor) error...

[quote

This is definitely a very doable DIY repair, unless you have issues with getting your hands greasy.

That's why I keep a big tub of Hand Goop close by lol

I didn't have a problem. The longest part is waiting for the JB Weld to cure. That being said if you take your time, move the coolant reservoir, the water pump pulley and belt etc it's not even that hard to get the magnet in but that does take a little longer to put together afterwards. Make sure the magnet is the problem before you do it though because I jumped through all the hoops and still have the code 41.

I read extensively, the "how to" threads on here, before deciding to do mine the way it was intended to be done (chain cover removal). Three reasons to go that route. 1. One report of the magnet falling out. 2. High mileage regarding cam chain condition. 3. No other way to check condition of timing chain tensioner.

Cam chain turned out fine, the tensioner came out in pieces though, so the deeper repair was necessary in my case. It's not that big of a job.

Now sensor magnet secure. Tensioner replaced. Code gone, replaced by very inexpensive piece of mind. Much better performing car. Step by step instructions helpful. Just my $.02

I had a knock sensor issue on my 91 coupe, bad gas mileage and marginal performance..... thought it was the cam sensor, ran diagnostics and the cam sensor was good but the knock sensor was reading way high.

That would retard the timing and give the symptons. I purchased several at the pick-n-pull and solved the problem.

I finally got around (aka stopped procrastinating) to this job today. Every thing has gone by the book, quick and easy except getting the magnet in the hole with the JB on it. I have taken it out and cleaned it and tried again multiple times. The tutorial said "now the tricky part" - LOL Truer words were never said.

15 minutes after I wrote the above:

OK, back again, went down and got it on the next try. Everyone has different things that work. I used a 1/2 inch deep well socket, stuffed and then a 1/2 short extension to act as a plunger to push and leave the magnet. Another thing that worked for me, I used my mouse sander, inverted it in my bench vice, put the magnet in a socket and ground the bottom off, that was I was able to keep it perfectly even as it ground down.

Now I just have to keep my fingers crossed that it will get Driftwood's check engine light off. BTW, the cam magnet was all but gone.

Success ! !

Thanks for the tutorial and help.