Rebuild 1990 Headlight Switch

I have a 1990 which had a perfectly functional headlight switch, save for the dimmer stalk being broken off internally. I found a cracked open switch in a pick a part, and grabbed the dimmer stalk. I thought looking at the open switch, this would be easy. It isn't. I can't get the push buttons functioning correctly again. Is there a guide to repairing these switched somewhere?

Jim Finn rebuilds them. jfinn@cpinternet.com I think is his email address He is listed as a supplier in the Reatta resources sticky at the top of the Reatta page

Caution; the switch is booby-trapped. Once you've gotten the shell loose from the tabs, parts spring out and fly all over the room.

Don't ask me how I know this.

I do rebuild the switches and Harry is right, they pop apart and pieces go flying everywhere and in almost all cases some of the small parts get lost.

For my rebuild service some pieces can be missing but the major parts must be there.

Jim

I believe I have all of the parts actually. From as far as I can see, the whole thing is there, and the switch parts for the headlight and park lights stayed together they just stopped doing button like things when I put it back together. The fog light switch went all part rocket on me, but I think it's all there, it just doesn't feel right reassembled. I'm taking it to a friend tonight, and if that is to no avail, I'll send the parts off to Jim. I didn't want to be down another month waiting for the USPS to stop being shocked that it snowed, but I will not cannibalize my other 90 for this switch and I need the fogs working. Better to wait than to put the wrong one in. Thanks guys.

I looked on the couple of sites I use to find parts and there are none there. Jim's are excellant and I endorse him as a supplier. I only have one left as a back up and need to come up with more myself. However I believe I have a couple in other guys hands and are waiting for them to "show up"...

It's back together now, I'm waiting til I can get a free minute to test it. It's a simple electronic setup, I do wiring on guitars and amplifiers so the circuit itself didn't look so confusing. I just don't have enough hands to put it together easily.

I'll get in touch with Jim if it doesn't work. I can see the rockers on the switches working, the contacts all looked good, I'm concerned that the buttons don't seem to be retaining their position, but I can't really tell without it plugged in. I'll remember Jim's email address. I may be needing it.

It works, except for the lights won't stay on. The internal switches aren't staying on any longer than I hold the button down. If anyone has had one of these apart and knows what holds them together, I'd love to learn to work on these switches. I can't ship it out to Jim until Tuesday anyway, so I'm not giving up until the weekend is out.

This problem is a very good example of solving a difficult problem. We all work on thing that we eventually figure out.... sometimes with lots of trial and error. People like Jim Finn are very helpful and share their experience, helping Reatta owners solve problems. Often trying to communicate the details of a fix/repair get confusing, the person that knows the solution does not know the expertise of the person trying to fix the part and all this can get frustrating. As one of the Reatta technical advisors for the BCA, I receive phone call daily from people asking for help. This takes time and sometimes the caller treats you like you are a paid employee.

Jim Finn knows these switches and can tell anyone how to repair them, the problem is how long it takes (on the phone) to communicate all the fine details. Jim is retired, but is busy, he recently moved several miles and also tries to make beer money from selling parts. Again Jim always tries to help but when he spends 30 minutes on the phone explaining a problem, that is 30 minutes he could be spending moving parts or selling parts.

Let me share a related experience....... several years back a Reatta owner was looking for a 1991 hub cap. They were hard to find and expensive (you could still buy 88-90 caps from GM at about $40) I did not have any but started looking for a substitute. I made a Masonite circle the size of the cap and would go to dealer lots to find one the correct diameter and silver color. When I found a candidate I would then buy a new one (if available) and try it on my 1991. There were several failures, the mounting tabs were all wrong or the color was different or they were too flat or too curved. I finally found one that I used to make 1991 clone hub caps.

Shortly after sharing on the discussion, the fact that I could supply clones, I get a call from a fellow on the West Coast wanting to know what hub cap I used. As diplomatically as possible I told him I has spend several hours and purchased several new hub caps in the search for the proper hub cap and it would not be in my best interest just to give the information away. He could not understand my unwillingness to share and has a chip on his shoulder to this day.

In this case PD is still trying to figure it out which I commend him for. He has stated that he will continue this weekend to attempt to fix and then send on to Jim if he can't get it.

I have come up with a great repair of ABS sensor leads and will sell out my inventory and probably quit. The reason is that the real work is not the repair but getting working leads to repair. I also pull parts [mostly switches and interior trim pieces] for guys on other forums and charge $15.00 an hour to find and pull parts. Problem is that not always am I able to charge as there are no user parts to pull or they are not working so I "eat" my time. But when I find a good working part sometimes I am told the price is too "expensive". How can something that is unaobtainable from the dealer and too small for a full service yard to deal with be too expensive? I once pulled a 3 year only part for a guy, told him the price and received half of what I told him as he thought that was fair. He then got mad at me when I sent him back his check and sold it to someone else.

I pull parts as a hobby and use the earned money for repairs on my own cars. It is a nice way to fill some of my free time.

Guys like Jim, Marck and others are to be appreciated for what they have been willing to take on. No matter what they charge for a part or service it is very inexpensive in my opinion and experience.

Just went to car-part.com and bought 3 1990 headlight switches from 3 different yards. One at $15.00, one at $30.00 and one at $45.00. I looked up speedometers and called the yards that had 1990 Reattas. Asked if they had the headlight switches located next to the speedo and how much they wanted for it. These guys have no idea about these switch's value and by just asking got great deals.

Just found another one at $25.00

That's $115.00 for 4 switches.

Dave now has $115 (plus shipping) in 4 switches and will not know until they arrive if they are any good. If they work is one thing, can you still read the button stamping is the second. I know Jim repairs the inside and puts good buttons in so they look good from the outside.

Actually that is not entirely correct. They are both testing them and sending me pictues. Besides selling parts is a waiting game. Even if I send all 4 to Jim and he rebuilds them at his price, all I have to do is wait until the market comes up to cover my cost and then I will be good.

It's like my rebuilt sensor leads. Right now my price appears high, but in two three years it won't be.

Barney,

with regard to "a fellow from the West Coast" (Steve Scott), I'd like to take a moment and set the record straight.

first, I suspect you've just had a "Brian Williams moment"; here is what REALLY happened with regard to the 1991 hub caps. Steve BOUGHT a cap from you. I was at his house when it arrived. you used lots of silicone to attach the Reatta emblem to the center of the cap; the emblem still had some flex to it. Steve said it would be much more secure using a resin, plus a mesh attachment.

buying the blank center caps was no mystery, and didn't require trips to car lots to "fit" them. since the 1991 wheel is essentially the same as the Hollander #4020 chrome wheel (used on 1997-2005 Park Avenue, and 1995-1999 Riviera), then any hub cap that worked there would work on a 1991 Reatta wheel. those are all over eBay for $60 a set; no "mystery" there for supplies.

you bought your Reatta emblems four at a time from a guy who sold them on eBay. when Steve decided to do this, he bought ALL of the remaining emblem stock the guy on eBay had (over 200), essentially shutting you out of the 1991 hub cap business. success comes not to those who "play it safe", but those who take chances.

it appears that shoulder chip does not lie with Steve.

Mike Rukavina

buickreattaparts.com

Actually that is not entirely correct. They are both testing them and sending me pictues. Besides selling parts is a waiting game. Even if I send all 4 to Jim and he rebuilds them at his price, all I have to do is wait until the market comes up to cover my cost and then I will be good.

It's like my rebuilt sensor leads. Right now my price appears high, but in two three years it won't be.

Looks like I am down to getting one. As what can happen is that they go to pull it and the part is gone. I did find a fifth one. They want $85.00 for it. Ask for Ray at Action Auto Parts. He can be reached at 1-800-243-2448. I did not see it so you may want to ask for pictures. So that is all I know about it.

Jim's rebuilds are really reasonable. Normally I'll hunt around for the lowest price, wait it out until one shows up on eBay, etc. but Jim's rebuilt switches aren't expensive and for a driver Reatta with a ton of miles, they'll work great.

I'm going to keep trying to play identify the spring loaded part until Tuesday when I can send it out, I don't think I'll break or lose anything because I've already taken it apart several times. As far as I know, I have retained all of the parts.

PD-

Be careful, these switches really aren't well suited to repeated disassembly of the enclosure before some part of the plastic shell will break (go ahead, ask me how I know).

Oh, and if you think that switch is nasty check out the 88/89 version sometime. Actually, the 88/89 windshield wiper switch is even worse than the headlight switch for mechanical complexity. Both are unpleasant to work on in any case.

KDirk

'Dude: you can't go wrong on any part from Mr. Finn!!!:cool:

good luck on trying to fix it, but i would ship it off in a small USPS Priority Mail box Saturday am, so Mr. Finn could get it by Tuesday and start on the rebuild - for fastest turnaround. then work on another Reatta project needed or two!

PD-

Oh, and if you think that switch is nasty check out the 88/89 version sometime. Actually, the 88/89 windshield wiper switch is even worse than the headlight switch for mechanical complexity. Both are unpleasant to work on in any case.

KDirk

will any of the wiper switch parts work to fix a headlight switch?

Looks like I am down to getting one. As what can happen is that they go to pull it and the part is gone. I did find a fifth one. They want $85.00 for it. Ask for Ray at Action Auto Parts. He can be reached at 1-800-243-2448. I did not see it so you may want to ask for pictures. So that is all I know about it.

Well they sent me the picture just before they closed and after they sent it, and it is from a 1991. I am still getting it so if anyone wants to buy it from me, just let me know. It is in very nice condition with all the buttons looking great. I can forward a picture to your email if interested. I paid $50.00 for it [delivered].

Handmedown-

On the 88/89 headlight and wiper switch assemblies, there actually are some internal pieces that are common to both switches. So, if you have a headlight switch that has certain parts shot, the same internal pieces could be salvaged from a wiper switch or vice versa.. This applies only to 88/89 switches. 90/91 of course used the infamous GM "100 functions in one stalk" for the cruise and wiper functions rather than a dedicated switch pod.

I've gotten very good at fixing the 88/89 style switches. I have a stack (8 to be exact) that are fully reconditioned. I disassemble, clean, lube the internal switch components as needed, reflow certain solder joints that carry high current through the switch and then clean and matte clearcoat the button faces to restore their appearance and protect the legends against degradation. Getting close to being able to replace failed EL backlighting as well.

Have found a few tricks to proper reassembly and fixing issues like the amber LED indicators not always working or some buttons not operating reliably and needing repeated strong pushes to "latch".

Some of these problems stem from mechanical wear; the 88/89 switch design is very mechanically complex internally and relies on a series of brass slide bars and rather exact alignment of plastic actuators and spring loaded contacts working in concert for everything to go smoothly.

My next project is to do the same on 88/89 headlight switches. I have several cores, though not a will be restored due to button faces that e destroyed or severe internal damage including burnt parts from electrical overloads. I owe Dave a refurb headlight switch, after that and some field testing I will have some of both switch type to sell.

I have worked on and restored 91 headlight switches a couple of times but have never touched a 90 switch yet as I don't own a 1990 MY Reatta. These are complicated in their own way, but not as bad as 88/89 IMHO.

KDirk

'Dude: you can't go wrong on any part from Mr. Finn!!!:cool:

good luck on trying to fix it, but i would ship it off in a small USPS Priority Mail box Saturday am, so Mr. Finn could get it by Tuesday and start on the rebuild - for fastest turnaround. then work on another Reatta project needed or two!

USPS is open Saturday? Oops, it's going out after work then.

Handmedown-

On the 88/89 headlight and wiper switch assemblies, there actually are some internal pieces that are common to both switches. So, if you have a headlight switch that has certain parts shot, the same internal pieces could be salvaged from a wiper switch or vice versa.. This applies only to 88/89 switches.

KDirk

i suspected that.thats why i always grab wiper switches too.