1990 TC oil leak...

hi fellas! its me again...I am loosing oil..about half a quart every 2 months or so..I can see that the valve cover has a minor leak..and when I look underneath the engine, boy its f)()%*$ oily downthere so hard to tell where exactly the leak is located.

any hints where it usually should be from experience? I defin. need a valve cover gasket and an oil pan gasket.. but what else?

You might need an oil pressure sender switch and it lives immediately in front of the oil pan so if it is bad the oil would be blowing back on the pan. Rock Auto part #6G1 about $15.

will check that out...if its the switch, wouldnt I also have oil pressure fluctuations ? it reads normal!..what else could it be?!

Probably the best way to find it is with a UV leak detector kit available at auto parts stores. Add to oil and look for the dye with a UV flashlight.

Bob

will check that out...if its the switch, wouldnt I also have oil pressure fluctuations ? it reads normal!..what else could it be?!

Try cleaning away the oil on the engine, like with a pressure washer. Then you should be able to see where it is leaking. Don't waste your time thinking the oil pan gasket is leaking, it doesn't have one!!! As you were advised, it is likely the oil pressure sending unit, just because it leaks does not mean it doesn't still keep showing the oil pressure.

Here's an 07 Mazda 3 oil pressure switch story. Looked at one two weeks ago, lady delivers auto parts for a living, several hundred miles a day couple hundred thousand miles on the car, checks fluids and tires daily. Pressure switch went on the highway, had good pressure until it had no oil, motor was toast by the time she got to the side of the road. Pressure switches are cheap, motors aren't.

hi fellas! its me again...I am loosing oil..about half a quart every 2 months or so..I can see that the valve cover has a minor leak..and when I look underneath the engine, boy its f)()%*$ oily downthere so hard to tell where exactly the leak is located.

any hints where it usually should be from experience? I defin. need a valve cover gasket and an oil pan gasket.. but what else?

did not check the oil pressure switch yet..but while I am at it...which correct waterpump would it be for my 1990 3L >?

did not check the oil pressure switch yet..but while I am at it...which correct waterpump would it be for my 1990 3L >?

[ATTACH=CONFIG]294132[/ATTACH]

you may also need the pipe that passes under the intake plenum, they often are rusted out.

Should you have a leak in the water pipe underneath the plenum it might be the two O-rings but could be the pipes also. Chrysler parts department are too expensive so use again Rock Auto under > CHRYSLER > 1991 > TC MASERATI > 3.0L V6 > Heat & Air Conditioning > Heater Hose / Pipe and if you need the pipe you get the O-ring with the pipe but you can buy the O-rings separately. You will also then need the intake manifold gaskets. You should do the water pump first and run the engine and if the water pipe leaks it will run down on the top of the transmission, but they can be done as two separate jobs without work overlap.

thank you everybody for all your input!..seems like the metallic noise comes from the catalytic converter - when you tap it, it sounds like something is loose inside! so I guess its not the waterpump...tried cleaning the oil mess a little and was not really able to determine the source...took a bunch of pics so you could probably tell me right away what the deal is...btw: oipl pressure switch looks superdry! timing belt has no cracks and feels elastic when fingernail testing it...so far, so good....

thank you everybody for all your input!..seems like the metallic noise comes from the catalytic converter - when you tap it, it sounds like something is loose inside! so I guess its not the waterpump...tried cleaning the oil mess a little and was not really able to determine the source...took a bunch of pics so you could probably tell me right away what the deal is...btw: oipl pressure switch looks superdry! timing belt has no cracks and feels elastic when fingernail testing it...so far, so good....

[ATTACH=CONFIG]294690[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]294691[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]294692[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]294693[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]294694[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]294695[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]294696[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]294697[/ATTACH]

A rattling cat can be nothing more than a loose heat shield or as bad as a busted biscuit and a busted biscuit can cause big trouble, don't wait to long to find out what makes your noise.

Our OBD1, or pre 1996 cars can have the old cat cut from the pipe and a new one welded in place. Yes you can cut and clamp on a universal cat and get by with a couple of tack welds to make sure it stays put, but some jobs are worth paying to have done in a shop and welding underneath a car is one of them. Don't let the shop over charge you, recycler's pay by the inch for whats left of the biscuit and universal cat's don't cost like they do for OBD2.

would that be sufficient?? http://www.autozone.com/emission-control-and-exhaust/catalytic-converter/walker-new-york-catalytic-converter/chrysler/tc-maserati-import/1990/6-cylinders-s-3-0l-fi/275228_750937_5320/

Shelbyone, that cannot be shipped to California, try to find one for CA emissions.

anyone has an idea where the oil could be leaking ( when you look at the pics?) I cleaned away all the visible oil smudge so far and will have to check again after driving if I see something suspicious...