60 yr barn find - help needed

Hey guys,

New to this pre-war thing (muscle car past- don't judge!). Anyway, got my hands on a 1925 DB Tourer and looking for some parts/info. It needs a back seat bottom, Battery tray, window handles, some glass, horn, tires(duh), Serial numbers in the high A-400k's. I don't know how much 'breed crossing' was done back then so any insight to locating info/parts would be helpful.

Serial numbers in the A-400's would be a '26. Touring cars wouldn't have window handles. How about some pictures?

High A-400's would be a " '26 Series" but built in late '25. So it could have been registered as either a '25 or '26 depending upon the State (I guess). I have a '27 Series (high A-700's) built in Sept '26. Have seen more vehicles built after mine (still in '26) that were registered as '26 models rather than '27's......so who knows?

High A-400's would be a " '26 Series" but built in late '25. So it could have been registered as either a '25 or '26 depending upon the State (I guess). I have a '27 Series (high A-700's) built in Sept '26. Have seen more vehicles built after mine (still in '26) that were registered as '26 models rather than '27's......so who knows?

My car (A377xxx) was built during the first week of July 1925 and is titled as 1925. The 1926 Series began with car A372475. Your car falls well within the 1926 series production. I guess the question is how did DB assign the year shown on the title? See attached build chart from the DB Club web site:

http://www.dodgebrothersclub.org/DB_Production_Dates.pdf

Hey guys,

New to this pre-war thing (muscle car past- don't judge!). Anyway, got my hands on a 1925 DB Tourer and looking for some parts/info. It needs a back seat bottom, Battery tray, window handles, some glass, horn, tires(duh), Serial numbers in the high A-400k's. I don't know how much 'breed crossing' was done back then so any insight to locating info/parts would be helpful.

There is no battery 'tray' as such, just an open metal 'cage' arrangement (under the floor board) attached to the chassis. There are no side windows, just side screens made from flexible plastic of some kind. It should have a 6 volt system if there is a separate starter and generator. If it has an earlier single starter/generator unit, it will be 12 volts. Plenty of free info on this forum. Welcome to our happy band. Muscle or whatever your previous existence we are very forgiving!

Please post some photos - we always love to see a 'barn find'.

Ray.

Titled as a '25. It's a 12 volt system. Looks like window handles ' cranks' to me. Broken, but window cranks.

Well it's not a "Tourer" but a very original 1925 Sedan with disc wheels. Yours has 2 hinges per door and 1926 has 3.

Does it run?

I have no doubt I can get it to run. There is compression in the hand crank. I am looking for info on sourcing parts. Right now all I consitrating on is running it. Looking for system info i.e generator, starter, distributor, etc.. Oh yea, still need a place for the battery.

Surely the steel cradle for the battery has not been removed from the chassis rail?.

It should be under the floor on the driver's side. (Unless someone else knows different)

I'll look again but I don't recall seeing one. Is it bolted on? If so, it's possible that it was removed.

Mine is welded but being an export model anything could be (and often is) different.

Export model?

GaryP65, congrats on your new purchase. Looks like a good start, it is a 1925 deluxe sedan. The cowl lights mean you probably have a nickled grille shell too. A standard sedan would not have the lights and has a painted grille shell. I suspected when you said window handles you had a sedan, which is often incorrectly called a touring sedan. Touring cars are 4 door convertibles. and have no windows. The most useful book you can buy is called Book of Information, the DB owner's manual. Go to the top of this page to the AACA library, click on it and look for the " online catalog." Search 1925 Dodge, there should be one there, give the number to the library and they will send you a copy for a few dollars. It will answer MOST of your questions. As to finding parts Myers Early Dodge Parts is the answer, they have a website. And yes, if you have compression on all cylinders I'd bet the engine will run.

Export model?

Yes, my car is RHD and was originally exported to Australia. In those days many countries especially those which required a rugged vehicle that could stand up to the terrain i.e..'the Outback' would import the running chassis and fenders and build their own body onto it. There were big financial advantages in doing it that way. American cars of the time even found their way to Great Britain as they competed well against the prices charged for our own cars. At one time the Model T Ford was the most numerous vehicle on British roads and the Government were so worried about it and other makes like the Scripps Booth taking over our home market that they introduced a heavy tax on the engine bore. This led to a plethora of long stroke engined cars designed to avoid the tax known as the R.A.C. Royal Automobile Club) rating.

Wow. Very cool info Mr. White! Love the kind of stuff.

Hey nearchocolatetown, what number do I give the library? Are you talking about the serial #?

Follow the path through library site. Each book or brochure has an inventory or catalog number. If you email the library, give that number, and description of what the book is with a credit card they will send you a copy. You want the closest Book of Information JUST before your car's build date. DB changed all the time, didn't wait for model year. When enough changes were made to the cars that warranted a new manual they changed it. Manuals had edition numbers and were dated.

Congrats! The car looks blessedly unmolested and complete! The two two (U.S.) parts suppliers I've used and like are Myers Early Dodge and Romar (http://www.myersearlydodge.com/catalog.htm and http://www.romardb.com/).

Here is a (poor) photo of the battery box on my '25 touring car, front floorboard removed. You can see the transmission/driveshaft connection at top of photo. It also has a cover (not shown).

. The most useful book you can buy is called Book of Information, the DB owner's manual. .

Nearchoclatetown - do you know whether either the 1924 or 1926 Book of Information would be suitable for GaryP65? I acquired 1923, 1924 and 1926 originals in an auction lot and would happily sell one or all to a good home. Somehow the 1925 edition did not make it into the batch I got and I don't want anyone to get something that doesn't do the job.

The '24 would best fit his needs as the '26 SHOULD have the starter and generator separate. I've not gone through all of them page by page, but sometimes it's hard to figure out what they changed in the books. Say, in '22 when they changed from negative to positive ground that MAY be the only change in the book. It's best to get the edition as close to the build date, but not absolutely needed. AND there are some with mistakes, especially in drawings, might show old part but describe new part.

Hey Mike, your battery box looks more complete than mine! So, is it welded or bolted to the frame? Or is it just the sheet metal part that is bolted?

As it happens, I am thinking of making my battery box a bit bigger to take a more heavy duty 6 volt battery.

Ray.

By the way, today marked the 50th anniversary of Sir Winston Churchill's funeral. By coincidence, my wife's uncle who I told you about, died recently and we said good by to him today.

Ray, I'm sorry about your uncle.

The battery box is just bent sheetmetal, perhaps a bit thicker gage than fenders/body. It is bolted on with brackets, one of which is shown in the attached photo. I thought I'd taken a few photos of the repaired box but I can't locate them. When it warms up a few tens of degrees I'll get some better photos.

As you can see, no battery box. can I make one? Specs? Whats up with the lock on the top of the tranny? Can anyone i.d. the 2 parts?

The lock is for anti-theft. The pans are engine side dust pans. You can actually go to the post you want to delete and delete it under "edit post".

As you can see, no battery box. can I make one? Specs? Whats up with the lock on the top of the tranny? Can anyone i.d. the 2 parts? [ATTACH=CONFIG]293625[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]293626[/ATTACH]

Those pans are quite sought after these days. They are a bit of a nuisance so missing on many cars.

If you can't find a battery box you will need to make one. Have fun!

Yup, engine splash shields. The bumped up area goes over the aft end of front spring perch so the pans are face up in your photo. You have the battery box brackets which would be harder to duplicate than the box itself. I can get you measurements for the battery box.

Mike, that would be awesome!! I'd like to make it as original as possible. Do you have diagrams? Gauge of metal perhaps?

Six volt cars have a different battery box than the 12volt cars. On 1 of my 12volt DB's I used a black plastic marine type battery box and bolted in to the original brackets using large fender washers to reinforce it. I am pretty sure it was for group 27 batteries. It was quick and easy and never rusts. Certainly not stock, but how often does anyone look under the floorboard to see if it is original? Besides, if they are bent down that far, they are in a prime position to be kicked in the butt! A word of caution, I used a brown plastic battery box once and it was brittle and cracked right away.

Got another one for you guys. The numbers on the top of the motor are A-16147 and 28024. Anyone?

Six volt cars have a different battery box than the 12volt cars. On 1 of my 12volt DB's I used a black plastic marine type battery box and bolted in to the original brackets using large fender washers to reinforce it. I am pretty sure it was for group 27 batteries. It was quick and easy and never rusts. Certainly not stock, but how often does anyone look under the floorboard to see if it is original? Besides, if they are bent down that far, they are in a prime position to be kicked in the butt! A word of caution, I used a brown plastic battery box once and it was brittle and cracked right away.

I Googled and found 'Marine' battery boxes in black. Is that what your talking about? there seems to be different sizes. Which one did you use to fit between the brackets? any photos?

Got another one for you guys. The numbers on the top of the motor are A-16147 and 28024. Anyone?

A -16147 is the engine number.

I know. Was hoping someone could tell me if that number falls within the year of the car.

I know. Was hoping someone could tell me if that number falls within the year of the car.

According to what you have said about the chassis number being in the 400,000 range, the engine number should be in the region of 50,000 later. Your engine would seem to be 1924 and therefore earlier than the chassis.

Got another one for you guys. The numbers on the top of the motor are A-16147 and 28024. Anyone?

The number stamped on the lefthand side of the engine just above the carb is the engine number. If the numbers you gave are cast in the head they don't help you date it. Can you post some pictures of both side of the engine?

I should be able to get those box measurements this weekend. I'll draw something up.

Thanks Mike. What do you think about what dwollaw said regarding the marine box?

I'm not familiar with these marine boxes but if they're available in dimensions close to the bracket spacing it would sure be easier than fabbing up a sheet metal box.

Just happened upon this. The marine boxes are available in two. maybe three sizes group 24,27 and I believe 31 for deep cycle batteries. These are the same dimensions as the auto group batteries 24,27 and 31

hope this helps someone

Dale

Here are some photos and dimensions of the battery box. It's pretty simple with the exception of the stiffening bulge stamped into forward and aft sides. The cover was lined on the inside with thin wood. Dimensions are (L x W x D) 14" x 7 & 7/8" x 10". Thickness is 0.050"

I will have NOS dist cap, rotor and points for your project. tsvanmeet@gmail.com

This is great. thank you for all your help