Jump to content

What to do .....


Guest mikey531

Recommended Posts

Guest mikey531

I got my 65 Buick Special 300 4 speed home before the snow storm. Now that it is safe in my garage, I have to decide what to do. Do I restore the interior to original, (although it was originally a 3 speed on the column) or get some nice bucket seats from a junk yard? I discovered there are no speed parts reasonably priced for the one year 300. So do I swap in another GM smallblock? I can't find any door panels for a special.. but can find them for a Skylark. I know it is my car and I can do what I want... I guess i am wondering what would be the cost to value of restoring or making it my own...

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mikey,

First you need to decide if you want an original restored show car or a driver. If you want to chase trophies, this might not be the right car to restore.

However, if you want a nice comfortable driver with some luxury and classy looks, customize it & make it whatever you want.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

First order of business is to inspect the car, front to rear and determine what needs to be done just to make it safe to drive as - is.

If you have no history on the maintenance, flush the brakes and change the fluids as required. You can do a test strip on the coolant for acidity and maybe

just add a can of anti-rust/water pump lube. Lube all the locks, latches and hinges.

After doing the above, you can make whatever changes your budget will allow.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You are not going to negatively effect the value of a '65 Special by deviating from stock. They just aren't that desired by the collector crowd. That said I wouldn't swap out the 300 V8 if it is running well just because you can't get speed stuff. If you want to swap in something with more hair, then I'd go with a 455. I guarantee you won't be needing more HP than that and you keep a Buick all Buick. I didn't think you'd find Special interior stuff from the aftermarket as I stated in your earlier thread but the very available Skylark stuff will work just fine. As for bucket seats, if you want to go with original "65 buckets you have to weld the brackets on the floorpan on the inboard side of the seats.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I guess i am wondering what would be the cost to value of restoring or making it my own...

Thanks

Your question is a good one that often people don't think to ask. That's why there are so many dismantled basket cases collecting dust in a garage or for sale at a fraction of the investment cost.

All excellent suggestions above. As far as cost-to-value with the Special, Assuming you did not get the car for free you will quickly be upside down as soon as you start the first phase of the project. By the time you are done you could easily be 4:1 or as much as 6:1 meaning you have 4-6 times the investment vs market value. So the key here is to end up with something that will provide much enjoyment. A lot will depend how much labor you can do yourself. For example if you decide to upgrade to a big block and tranny you may pay $500 for a solid rebuildable combination, then another $200-$500 to go fetch it or have it shipped, then another $3000 to have it rebuilt. Then you need heavier springs, bigger radiator and on and on. By the time you get done with the installation you'll easily have $5000 invested and that's doing MOST of the labor yourself.

I tend to over-analyze car projects to a fault when it comes to cost. I have found that most underestimate investment or by human nature subconsciously don't reveal the truth.

Without knowing your exact goal and the current condition of the car we can't be very specific. I would start by deciding on an end goal.....what you want the car to be. The four main cost considerations are Body/paint, Engine, Chrome/brightwork and interior. There are many other smaller areas such as brake system, suspension, exhaust, sound system, wheels/tires, etc.

Then while looking over the car with clipboard in hand, make a comprehensive list of each phase of the project and make notes on what parts and services you will need, then take several hours and research those costs, then add at least 30% and see if you come up with a number you can live with. Make sure you ad in shipping costs for anything you will purchase mail-order as they can be substantial all totaled. Then let it settle for a few weeks and think over your plan fine tuning it. Spending 15-20 hours planning will greatly improve your chances of reaching your goal. This planning time will be a pittance to what you will put into the project once wrenches start turning. With so few repop parts for Buicks, it requires a lot more research to estimate cost vs rebuilding a Mustang or Camaro where you can get actual costs just by sifting through one or two catalogs.

Other than that my only other suggestion would be to manage phases of the work so the car isn't out of driving commission for too long at any one time. It helps to be able to enjoy the car as work progresses.

Edited by JZRIV (see edit history)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

When I bring a project type car home I usually clean and polish every bit of the car as if I were taking it to a cars how. Shine anything that will shine, clean rainy rust trails from the trim, and remove all the dirt. In most cases you have just gained intimate knowledge of the car and added about $1,000 value if you begin to suffer a severe case of buyer's remorse.

If you bring home a stray and are not completely happy with it, sell it. I guarantee there is no shortage of them and a new one will show up next week. Do it right and you could up the ante up by a thousand next time.

Bernie

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mikey, that looks sharp !

That looks like a nice, clean fun, driver. I would start by cleaning everything as Bernie has just suggested, and then just drive it as-is for a while. It might be to your liking just the way you are. Then a good tune-up, careful detailing, and thoughtful upgrades and reasonable mechanical enhancements if you really want to, many of which could be nearly invisible if that is the way you want to go.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You might consider looking at a 350 Buick to replace the 300 if you find that the 300 doesn't suit your needs. There are lots of aftermarket parts made for it, and it's a really light weight engine so you could probably leave the front suspension as it is.

Ed

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest mikey531

Thank you for all the advice and comments. I will probably work on it this winter and see what I have in the spring. I am happy with the body, the engine runs decent, it does need a complete interior which I will probably go with the Skylark door panels. I never thought about a Buick 350 I know in the early 80"s when they went with the "corporate" 350 there was a lot of discussion. Did the Buick 350 have buick valve covers so it said Buick? I have another project that is being painted now. I did modify the truck to make it kind of my srtreetrod. The blue is how I found it, the silver is how I want to paint it.

post-105822-143142950393_thumb.jpg

post-105822-143142950338_thumb.jpg

post-105822-14314295034_thumb.jpg

post-105822-143142950361_thumb.jpg

Edited by mikey531 (see edit history)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest my3buicks

Not sure the 300 that you have pictured is the original engine or not - the valve covers are from a 67, so don't know if they have been swapped out or if the entire engine has been swapped out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest mikey531
Not sure the 300 that you have pictured is the original engine or not - the valve covers are from a 67, so don't know if they have been swapped out or if the entire engine has been swapped out.

Where can I find the numbers to see what I do have?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know this is from Wikipedia but I thought you might find it interesting.

Of all the GM 350-cubic-inch (5.7 L) engines, the Buick 350 has the longest stroke. It made the Buick 350 significantly wider than the other GM 350's — essentially the same width as the Buick big-blocks, which have the shortest stroke of the GM big-blocks. In fact, at a glance the Buick 350 is commonly mistaken for the 455 engine due to the oversized intake manifold atop the engine and conventional angled valve covers like a 400/430/455. The Buick 350 also shares an integrated aluminum timing cover as do most of the Buick small and big blocks which incorporates the oil pump mechanisms as well, leaving the oil filter exposed to oncoming air for added cooling.

If you check TA Performance's website, you can see that there are quite a few aftermarket items made for the Buick 350. And as I said before, it's not very heavy.

There's a subforum on www.V8buicks.com for small blocks only. Probably worth a visit.

Ed

Link to comment
Share on other sites

One more item to interject. Consider how hard it could be to find a bell housing for your intended engine. I believe the 300 bell housing will fit the Buick 350. Almost certain it will not fit the big blocks.

What rear axle ratio does it have?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
Guest mikey531

I have been looking over my Buick and I think I am going to go with a couple of late model GM pickup bucket seats like what I used in my '69 GMC. These have the built in shoulder harness. I have looked around and is there anyone who restores dash boards for my 65? I was able to get a restored one for my truck so wondered where to find talent that can restore the things I can't.

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The dash pods were pretty available used to pick up a couple to use as parts. They are pretty simple to take them apart and restore yourself. The only piece you might have to look to find a good one is the clear plastic speedo cover but I have had good success just using plastic polish on them as well. A light sanding on the pot metal and a quick respray of silver from a rattle can for the surround. Some tape and semi gloss black take care of the area around the switches. Lettering can be touched up using thickened Testors model paint and a toothpick followed up with a cotton ball to clean any excess. Part of the fun of having a restored car is doing stuff yourself!

Edited by ol' yeller (see edit history)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
Guest mikey531

Update. Due to the tremendous amount of snow ( over 6' anything under 12" was considered a dusting and it is snowing again today) and cold, I have not done anything but look at my Buick. I did find out that it has had an engine transplant, the engine is a 1967 300. Does that year engine open up other 4bbl and manifold options as opposed to the '65 300 ?

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...