Jamco Rear Disc Brake Bolt On Kit for 1965 Riviera

Does anyone have experience with this kit for the rear Dif? My shop is running into all sorts of problems and Jamco is little help. Also, they don't have instructions for the rear kit. It's hardly a "bolt on" kit.

FYI, this is a weird differential. I've had the hole thing gone through (new bushings, bearings, etc). Is this dif used in any other car? My shop said it could be a GMC truck dif.

Comments?

Buick 9 3/8" ring gear. Buick only as far as I know. That's why when a posi unit goes up for sale, they seller can demand a healthy price for it.

When I was still considering a rear disc swap, I was going to put a complete rear end from a Ford Explorer under my car. 3.73 gears, posi, and factory disks. They're in the salvage yards for not much money because there are so many of them. The Ford is the same width so you just need to weld on the correct bracketry

Ed

Argh, thanks Ed. I'm too far down this path with the original dif to contemplate changing now. Jamco says that they sell hundreds of these and many Riv's have had these installed...and no problems. ??? So, I'm looking for someone who has done this. Anyone? Anyone? Thanks!

I looked at the Jamco ad for their rear disk kit. It says "63 - 69" so are they saying that the one kit fits all those years? Starting in '66 Buick went to a rear end with an inspection cover (rather than the drop out center section of the 63 - 65) which is totally different. I'm wondering if they developed it using a 66 or later rear end and assumed that the earlier ones were the same style?

Ed, they have specific years when you place your order. You have to indicate which year Riv you have so you get the right kit. It's just frustrating to restore/modify anything but a Chevy Camaro or a Ford Mustang.

I just find it strange that they list separate kits for the fronts; one for 63 - 65, and a different one for 66 - 69. Why, if they're different, wouldn't they list two separate kits for the rear? Also, why isn't the 70 included in the listing? It's still a 2nd generation Riviera?

Ed

I just don't think they know what they're doing...and now either do I!

Ed, yes, it is odd.

Here is where we are right now:

A few things:

1) Calipers are on backward. This is the only way they would fit.

I'm ok with this because I like the look and I like the center of gravity moving more to the...center of the car.

2) If put on the back of the rotor, they would interfere with shock absorber!

3) I haven't checked to see if the original wheels fit over the Caliper. I'll let you all know.

4) I'll have to figure out how to operate the Emergency Brake if I have to pull the lever backward (these calipers come with an E-brake, spring loaded set up. Another custom car headache. Probably have to get a Lockar e-brake kit.

5) The Rotors are TOO big for the axle. The diameter of the center of the rotor has about 1/4" gap around the axle...so the shop is going to machine/find a bushing that will go on the axle and allow the rotor to fit snug against it.

6) The rear end has been completely rebuilt with new bushings and bearings. I don't dare ask how much $$...I told him to wait to tell me until Friday.

Any other questions? FYI: This is NOT a bolt on kit.

I can tell you I had a similar experience with them sending me the wrong stuff for a lowering kit I wasn't pleased with there customer service

Just a follow up, the 1965 Riviera wheels fit fine over the calipers. Just a note...if you do this "bolt on" kit...you'll have to replace your wheel/axle studs/lugs. I'd suggest you do this when the axles are out of the differential housing...it'll be easier to pound out the old ones and pound in the new ones. The new ones ($2.00 each at a local auto parts store) have a 5/8" long ribbed section. The originals are about 1/3". This ribbed section has a larger diameter than the 1/2" lug/stud. This longer ribbed section is needed to hold the discs/rotors in place. The holes on the rotor are too big. So instead of adding bushings, I just thought the new studs would be easier.

I'll take a pic when I get home so you have a better idea of what I'm talking about.

any follow up

Just for future reference and anyone reading this; you can remove the rear wheel studs (even with drum brakes installed) using one of the lever type tie rod or ball joint separators.