oil pan wanted

I took my oil pan to get Powder coated and the guy said he would recommend a new pan because of tiny holes in the bottom from rust.

Just wanted to see if anyone had a oil pan for a 1934 Buick series 50 they wanted to sell. Or if there was some other year pan that might

fit or aftermarket . The holes are only in a very small area so i'm guessing It can be repaired. But if someone had a decent replacement i would rather do that.

That looks very similar to 1931 and 1932 oil pans, but someone more knowledgeable than me should confirm it.

Pete Phillips, BCA #7338

I have a junk 34 block and several 32 blocks all for 50 series. I'll check the pans tomorrow for condition and interchange and let you know. Many of these pans do have rust in the bottom and have been repaired.

repair may be cheaper than shipping. Any of my pans would need some work to clean, remove dents and straighten flanges.

Bob Engle

Bob,

I believe I have a spare 31-57 oil pan that is in good condition. I will check it out tomorrow & send photos if you decide to replace yours.

If Bob or Mark have'nt a matching part you can try this source :

http://www.rpmmotorsportsmn.com/servlet/the-Car-%26-Truck-Parts-cln-Buick/Categories

1931-1935 ser.50 crankcase lower 1.426-1239655 are the same.

Leif in Sweden

I've been under the weather and haven't got out to my storage barn. I did look through my master parts manual and it confirms Leif"s post that 31 through 35 oil pans are interchangeable. I'll let you know what the best condition pan in my barn looks like shortly.

Bob Engle

did my eye's fail me or is rpmmotorsports really trying to get $25,000.00 for some of their parts?:confused:

Looks like i see it too. I guess if you REALLY need it you have to get a loan for it.

$25,000.01. Don't forget the 1 cent !!!

It's the 1 cent that may just be the deal breaker.

:)

Danny

Bob,

Where are the pinholes ? Can you shoot a picture of the offending area ?

You could just braze them shut on the inside, and nobody would know.

I did that to my flywheel cover.

Mike in Colorado

i have 4 pans but that one looks fine,get it dipped,and a little brass,the hard part is finding a pan that the bottom ribs are not dented,and those motorsport prices i guess i am millionare .

I think they have fun to set l comma's and O's and really they means 25 bucks .

But at first me too must read it 3 times.

Here is a picture of the offending area.

Bob,

Where are the pinholes ? Can you shoot a picture of the offending area ?

You could just braze them shut on the inside, and nobody would know.

I did that to my flywheel cover.

Mike in Colorado

Bob, I think brazing is the best easiest option

Bob,

I agree with Marty.

Brazing on the inside of the pan is the best option.

There is no epoxy or chemical sealant that will withstand engine oil and the heat / cool cycles that the pan is subjected to.

You could weld in a false bottom, but that is a very involved process, and it is likely to warp the pan. Then you would have a real mess.

Or a piece of wall art............

Yup, I would braze the inside.

i can post pics of a spare pan if you like,but to get it to you you are looking at about 250,all in.

this is a pic of the pan,also a devcon product that has not let me down ,not cheap but works great ,grinds like steel.

I finally checked my 4 pans, 3 are worse than your pan appears. The other one is about equal with your pan. It has some brazing to fill pin holes. I doubt that you would be interested in this pan. Sometimes the devil you know is better than the devil you don't know. I would braze the inside and lead and smooth the outside for appearance.

Sorry I didn't have a solution for you.

Bob Engle

this is a pic of the pan,also a devcon product that has not let me down ,not cheap but works great ,grinds like steel.[ATTACH=CONFIG]293618[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]293619[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]293620[/ATTACH]

Hey pacrat, who darns your socks ? HEHE............

sorry about my lack of class,ay

A hole opened up in my oil pan when I was cleaning up the outside using a rotary wire brush. When I looked inside, there was a line of deep pitting on both sides of the drain fitting. I cleaned the area as best as I could, then welded the hole closed plus the neighboring pitted areas. The pan sheetmetal is thicker than the Ford fenders I learned to weld on, and it was easy welding; it didn't warp or move from the heat. Total weld time was about 20 minutes for this area. The dip stick fitting is also broken and will require a weld repair, but I have already removed and cleaned/ straightened the parts in preparation. I had several hours invested in wire brushing the old paint off and cleaning the sludge out of the pan, and it made more sense for me to spend a little more time just welding up the holes and broken pieces.

this is the "before" rust thru and pitting

the weld repair

broken dip stick fitting. weld repaired areas don't really show on the exterior of the pan.

Kevin

if you still need on i have one that looks like nos . paul 1 231 357 3009 1933 buick registry

Kevin,

From the looks of your dipstick tube, it appears that the stamping that hold the tube is riveted and then soldered on to the pan.

You get a torch in there hot enough to "weld" the tube back on, and I think you will unsolder the stamping.

Not a big deal, so long as you re-solder the stamping to the pan.

Kapish ?