Blue paint

Working on the hood. I bought a new paint gun for my birthday.

Those louvers are a pain in the &%(%^ to strip... What kind of paint gun did you get? I got one of those LPHV (I think that's how it goes) and it works pretty nice.

It is a Performce Tool M710. I do NOT reccomed it. The reservoir does not seal. I'm am using tape to keep from spilling. POS.

i am learning about pressures and volumes and atomization though.

Those louvers are a pain in the &%(%^ to strip... What kind of paint gun did you get? I got one of those LPHV (I think that's how it goes) and it works pretty nice.

MikeC5,

HVLP (High Volume Low Pressure) is the term you're looking for.

Rogillio,

As far as guns, the Devilbliss, Binks are old school gun manufacturers that I personally like to use but I also use Harbor Freight $10 specials for primers. I have one for each base coat so I never mix or contaminate solvents or materials with different bases. I use one for latex, one for oil, one for laquer, one for acrylic urethanes. I despise Harbor Freight or anything Chinese made because it's so cheaply made but the primer guns are disposable so I don't mind for certain things.

It's good you are practicing with atomization and air pressures. Practicing different techniques will teach you a lot on a personal level and will help dial everything in when your ready for a final paint. Also, keep in mind some gun kits have different size tips, needles and orifice's that you can experiment with that can change things dramatically at times. Wider orifice's means heavier more industrial type materials. Smaller orifice's are for more refined final finishes typically, air brush guns being the smallest just as an example.

Don't forget the Rhine fresh air pump and mask to save your lungs!

Don't forget the Rhine fresh air pump and mask to save your lungs!

NO DOUBT !

My step father used to laugh at wearing a respirator back when we were using Imron on car wash bays in the 70's....

How's he doing today ? Well, let's just say he has assisted breathing mechanisms....

ALWAYS, ALWAY, ALWAYS wear proper protection and use adequate ventilation procedures and/or equipment.

Dave, What gun do you recommend for latex paint?

Dave, What gun do you recommend for latex paint?

Thousands to choose from really so it's hard to say....

What are you spraying with latex ? I try not to use latex in any gravity fed guns except my disposable harbor freight guns or older Devilbiss, Binks or Craftsmans.

Graco guns for latex house or building jobs.

Devilbiss or Binks for Conventional latex jobs.

Again, what are you painting ? What's the surface and what are you trying to achieve ?

Brain cramp....lacquer not latex.

Painting 1926 DB Coupe. I used the same gun for primer, paint and clearcoat. I have 2 guns now so will designate the old one for primer per your previous notes about cross contaimination.

Geesh, sh, now that I'm thinking a about it, I told some of my buddies from work I was painting my car with latex paint. Guess I showed my 'expertise'. :-)

Hey, I've met guys who have tried painting cars with latex. Of course it was overspray that drifted onto the cars but I digress...

Let us know how you like the Dupli-Color. I've only used Dupli-Color in spray can form for small parts but it seemed to work great.

Definitely wear a respy with that stuff...

Dave, my shop is not heated and temps are gonna get down to 8 degrees tonight. Do I need to bring my paint, primer and clear coat into the house?

Also, HF had inline water filters on sale for like $2....I stocked up. How often should I change them?

I'd keep it at room temperature as much as you can till your ready to use it. Have you opened it yet ?

A little secret/trick:

If you bring it inside make sure the top is sealed tight with a rubber mallet. Then lay down a thick mill piece of plastic (heavy duty green contractors bag preferably) and store the can upside down till you're ready to use it. This will limit the possibility of air getting in which will cause the vehicle and resins to separate more rapidly meaning you will have to stir it more.

Some think it's BS but trust me, I've opened cans that were stored upside down for years and never had to mix when I opened them again. No oxygen means the paint won't dry out , or another way of looking at it is, the ingredients stay thoroughly mixed with limited stirring or mixing when ready to use/re-use.

Have you ever opened a can of paint that was either dried out or had a ton of vehicle (liquid) floating on top ? That's why, because it wasn't stored properly. That secret works with all types of paints too.

I would dispose of the cheap filters after each spray or a full day of use. Some of the better ones you can drain but they last a lot longer and cost a bit more but the disposable ones are fine. Always drain your tank at night to be sure and drain any moisture left in your compressor.

My latest efforts. I got a new paint gun. Check out the parts list discription for the "ornamental" ring. The ring is to catch drips from the lid to keep then from running down the sides and gunking up the works. Guess the tech writers didn't talk to the engineers.

I will post more pix in better lighting but I am very pleased with it. I realized I had too low a flow on the paint when it took me about 17 coats to apply 4.5 qts of paint. No idea if that is too much or too little. I applied many thin coats to avoid drips....of couse it took me most of the day to paint it. The clear coat do well at the low volume rate as it was spotty. So I opened the fluid valve and got much better results. Now I feel foolish for not doing the same on the paint. I put about 2.5 qts of clear coat that took about 3 coats.

I've learned so much doing this. I will probably go back and paint the fenders again now that I have a little more experience and know I can do better.

The gun I got was from Home Depot. Came as a kit for $70 and includes 2 guns for different types of paint. I am VERY pleased with it. That gun I got at Oreilly is a peice of junk!

First time in daylight since I painted the last.

The front crowl and hood was painted over white primer. The rest was painted over dark blue. Also, I put 3x as much paint on the back. I just need to sand and paint the front some more. I'm learning as I go.

Mike, it is very hard to match colors from and old paint job,

especially if you try in spot paint,

if you going to paint only the back , try and paint to a break line, door frame to door frame,

or just window frame,

or bite the bullet and paint the whole car,

i spent a llot of time and a few bucks trying to get the old green , Moss Agate, or Bolling green

I had TCP Global mix it from old formulas in Ditzler and PPG

didn't match,

I finally took a Door to a local paint shop use the gun to match,

they were able use a modern color and tweek it to match,

pretty close,

I didn't want to paint the whole car at this time, may regret later!!

I like the Blue on Ken's car, nice job.

Jesse

Jesse, I'm not trying to match old paint. I'm trying match the same midnight blue stock color from Oreilly I painted 2 weeks ago. I think I just put it on too thin over the white primer. Pretty sure a few more costs will darken it up to match.

Agreed

primer color does have effect on top coats

good luck

This is is after I Repainted the front crowl to make it a darker blue. It matches much better. I need to work on the clearcoat. I learned a lot. Maybe next year I will start all over and do better.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]300792[/ATTACH]

This is is after I Repainted the front crowl to make it a darker blue. It matches much better. I need to work on the clearcoat. I learned a lot. Maybe next year I will start all over and do better.

Great tread on "Dodge Blue". This color combination will look good on my 29 DB "E" series.

Looks great! It has plenty of shine; did you already spray clear coat?

Looks great! It has plenty of shine; did you already spray clear coat?

Yes, several coats of clear coat. But then I was sanding/polishing to get some minor drips out and I cut too deep into the clear coat. I think I need to put another few coats of clear coat on.

The more build up of mill's you have the more you can sand and buff to a mirror finish. Don't try and put them all on in one application though or you may encounter runs. Take your time.

Just curious, what kind of clear coat are you using ? PPG, Sherwin Williams, a local manufacturer etc.. ?

Fix the dent over the left drivers shoulder.... it's buggin me! (NOTE: just a joke, not meant to critique)

Dave, the clear coat is the same brand as the paint shown above. It has really good instructions from surface prep to primer to pain to clear coat and then polishing. Great for a novice like me to know what grit sandpaper to use at various stages.

i don't have ant dents.....must be a light/shadow issue with the camera.

Mike

....must be a light/shadow issue with the camera.Mike

I'll try to get a picture up, but I opted for Washington Blue. I believe this was a Ford color. It's very close to what we think was the original color. If it's not, I'm the only one who has to like it and Washington Blue has a special meaning to me.

Wow, that is beautiful. Nice paint job! Did you paint it or have it done? I like the Crome radiator schroud. It will cost me $800 to get mine nickel/Crome plated.

I'm the only one who has to like it and Washington Blue has a special meaning to me.

Looks great, excellent choice.

I have to ask, how did the VW end up on the top shelf ?

Thanks. As for the VW, you'll have to ask Greg at 250 Restorations and Customs. Greg did the restoration on my Dodge, but has a soft spot for VW's.

I just came across a car that reminded me of my comment earlier in this thread about how the incremental addition of red pigment to blue paint can rapidly turn the result to violet. Here's a '57 Cad for sale which is painted "Midnight Blue". Maybe it's an accurate rendition of a factory color, but for my money there's nothing "midnight" about. I find it sort like an Easter egg color.

http://desmoines.ebayclassifieds.com/m/ViewLargeImage?adid=31772890

It is amazing how loosely color names are used industry wide.

I hear what you're saying HW. This is what I think a true midnight blue should look like but I'm sure there are more than 1000 different variations of this color (what ever it's called).

I've even heard the 29 DB truck at the Chrysler museum referred to as midnight blue.

I'm glad you agree. It's one thing if the factory used poor judgment naming that color, but I'd feel awfully bad for the owner (or restorer) of the Cadillac if that color was the result of some mistake in mixing the color. I'm sure that sort of thing can happen.

I'll try to get a picture up, but I opted for Washington Blue. I believe this was a Ford color. It's very close to what we think was the original color. If it's not, I'm the only one who has to like it and Washington Blue has a special meaning to me.[ATTACH=CONFIG]302740[/ATTACH]

Washington Blue has always been my favorite blue in the prewar era. It really is a perfect, balanced color and it looks great on Fords (and others) of many body styles and vintages. I, personally, would have chosen the same.

Hello

I have a 1925-26 dodge it is blue but need to be repainted it's faded away no shine etc I am wonderful by what were the factory colours