33 Chevy Motor Rebuild

I just started a project to rebuild a 33 motor with my son. It only has 25k original miles on it and hopefully wont need a ton of new parts. I would appreciate anyone who has advice on the build, or guidance on parts.

I do not intend to keep the car or motor original so not worried about 100% period correct. Just looking to build a solid engine. Ive read a ton of ways to improve and rebuild a 50s stovebolt, but not able to find much on the 33 era motor. I can see mine is definitely different.

Again, anyone's 2 cents is much appreciated, especially if you have some experience with this motor.

Bob

I have owned a 1933 Chevrolet Master for 43 years and took the head to a reputable machine shop for a valve job back in 1976. The job did not go well since the shop attempted to install valve seats and machined one through to the engine cooling water cavity. At the time the only other head I could find had one crack off an exhaust valve seat. I took it to an old farm tractor machine shop that pinned the crack and rebuilt the head and it has been running for 38 years with no issues

As I recall, the 1933 Chevrolet head originally had the valve seat surfaces machined right into the heads cast iron, no seat inserts, so there is not much metal for machining and installing new valve seats. If the original valve seat surfaces are not repairable without installing seats, try to find shallow valve seats and be real careful so you don't go very deep with the machining.

Before taking the crank out or moving the oil troughs in the oil pan, I would attempt to make a template so you can adjust all the oil troughs in the pan to exactly the same depth. I have every copy of the Vintage Chevrolet Club of America Generator and Distributor (G&D) magazine ever published and I can remember one of them back in the 60s or 70s having the dimensions of the template for setting the troughs and I attempted to find it a few months ago, but could not.

My engine always ran on the hot side no matter what I did until I switched to Valvoline VR-1 Synthetic Racing oil around 5 years ago. Timing and carburetor adjustment helped, but when the car was not moving the temp would climb until I changed to the VR-1 synthetic racing oil. The VR-1 also has a high zinc level.

Visit my personal website at: www.jakegingervila.wix.com/bobs-vintage-cars-

Vila

1933 Chevrolet

1962 Triumph TR4

1984 BMW 633 CSi

I forgot this in my first posting.

Unless you are going to use the engine in a perfect show car I would replace the carburetor with a Carter 569S. The 569S was the Carter replacement for original 1932 - 1936 Carter carbs. For my engine, the original 259S would spray gas out of a small hole by the Idle Adjustment screw onto the exhaust manifold and the 569S has an improved idle screw that eliminated this issue.

You can find 569S Carter carbs on ebay rather frequently. I got a rebuildable one from there years ago. A lot of ebay sellers don't know the exact carburetors they have, so you may need to ask them if it has the number 421 stamped of the face of the mounting flange.

There is a website with specs on the 569S at: http://old-carburetors.com/Chevy.htm