Replace brake lines

I am reactivating my 1955 Buick Special which has been little driven for a number of years. The most significant impact has been on the brake system. The rear brakes were not working at all. I checked adjustment - that was OK - and then replaced the rear cylinders. In the course of trying to bleed them I came to find out that no fluid was coming through, which brings me to my question.

it seems that this might be a good time to replace the brake lines. Kanter has a stainless set for $219. I have new master and hoses as well.

My first question is whether it makes sense to take that drastic action versus simply clearing out the lines to the back wheels

My second question is, if I do replace them, whether anyone has had experience with brake lines from Kanter. I have bought many things from them in the past and have never been dissatisfied.

My third question relates to the wisdom of replacing the lines myself versus taking everything in to a reliable shop and having it done professionally. Having never done this, I am uncertain as to what I may be getting into.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Brian

Hi Brian. It seems to me that the confidence that comes from knowing you can stop is second only to the peace you get knowing you can steer. Of interest is just how you know fluid is not traversing to the rear of the car? I believe it's a two person job to make sure of that in a 55 , considering the reservoir and MC are under the floor on that year Buick, so the fluid probably will not flow without someone pumping the brakes and a second person bleeding them at the valves on the rear cylinders.

Stainless steel lines are really nice, but it's not unusual that they will require a little massaging to get into place. Stainless Steel is more difficult to bend than regular steel lines. I have no knowledge or experience with Kanter's lines so can't advise if this will be a difficult project or not. But it is not a difficult project conceptually. The one thing I would recommend if you do it yourself is to start the lines before attaching the wheel cylinders to the backing plates. Same thing with the "T" on the rear axle if that "T" is subsequently bolted down.

Only you know your capabilities to complete this job. How handy are you with tools? One thing is certain, you'll never know if you could have done it unless you try. And towards that end my last recommendation is to buy the regular steel lines. Get the coated ones if at all possible. If your car is kept in a relatively dry storage facility ( garage) then the coated steel line will probably never rust, they are hardly seen by anyone , except those crawling around under your car, and they are usually bendable by hand without any tools.

Good luck on your decision. And great Buick too...

Typically vendors like Kanter are just buying and marking up the same items that you could buy direct from the maker cheaper. Check with Inline Tubing and others for price and availability.......Bob

I've found that the first culprit in clogged brake lines are the soft brake hoses. There is one central hose on the 55 that bridges from the frame to the torque tube in the center of the car. That is where I would start.

Hi,

I cannot make your decision for you about making your own brake lines. I do offer the following for your consideration.

1. Replace the rubber hoses with DOT-standard hoses. Avoid the $20 Argentine-made crap from Ebay. You should pay 80-90 dollars for a set.

2. Do not try to make your own stainless steel hoses. Stainless steel tubing breaks when formed, particularly in the double flare. Making stainless brake lines requires special consideration, tooling, and skills.

3. If you decide to make your own:

a). invest a couple hundred bucks into the Eastwood.com brake tubing flaring tool. After making one flare you won't care what it costs--it's that good. See it at work on youtube. Too expensive?--you can always sell it when done for about 2/3 of what you paid for it.

. use CuNiFer brake tubing, easily available at parts stores. It is easy to form and highly resistant to corrosion.

4. If you are doubting your abilities, don't do it. Your brake system is a single-cylinder system, and one brake line failure equals "no brakes." Hire it out to a dependable mechanic.

Just my 2 cents, based on experience.

--Tom

Hi Brian,

I just replaced my whole brake system on my 57 Estate wagon. I purchased a stainless steel line set from Inline Tube, preformed. The fit very well, with only very minor tweaking. This is the second set I have purchased from them. I replaced the set on my 57 Special Sedan as well about 3 years ago. I went with the stainless because of the non-corrosion factor, especially when the cars are setting for long periods of time. The InlineTube set up cost me $180 for all the tubes for the car, pre-bent, and with stainless spring protectors as well. They look really good.

Tom is right, buy your hoses from a local NAPA dealer or Mom and Pop auto store. That way they will be DOT approved hoses. They will be about $20 - 25 a hose, but worth it.

I've found that the first culprit in clogged brake lines are the soft brake hoses. There is one central hose on the 55 that bridges from the frame to the torque tube in the center of the car. That is where I would start.

Adam, your observation is very helpful. I wondered if brake hoses break down on the inside and hopefully will soon find out. I have been working in trying to get that one off, so far with no success. Hitting it with penetrating oil, working it, more penetrating oil. When I get it off I will make a determination of whether to replace the lines.

i particularly appreciate the opinions regarding replacement, doing my self, etc. I checked out Inline Tubing. I had never heard of them; they seem like a great source. If I go ahead and replace lines I will get preformed steel lines from them.

Brian

Hi,

Adam, your observation is very helpful. I wondered if brake hoses break down on the inside and hopefully will soon find out. I have been working in trying to get that one off, so far with no success. Hitting it with penetrating oil, working it, more penetrating oil. When I get it off I will make a determination of whether to replace the lines.

For a stubborn fitting, make sure you are using flare wrenches and are double-wrenching. They grip the hex head at 6 points and are less likely to spin the hex smooth.

I would count on replacing all the brake hoses--after so many years I would not trust my life to them. The replacement rubber hoses on my LaSalle lasted 25 years, but then they had to be replaced after that.

You haven't mentioned your wheel cylinders. They are likely corroded and pitted inside. If replacements are available, that's great. If not, they can be sleeved with stainless at any number of places. I use brakeplace.com to sleeve mine.

--Tom

Yes, I am using what I think is a flare wrench (a box wrench with the end open enough to slip over the brake line) with another wrench on the brass fitting on the hose. There's a lot of play between the wrench and the fitting so I can't really push it. I'm using visegrips.

I have all new hoses although it's curious that when I hold them up against the currently installed ones they are about 1 inch longer and thus will have a bit of a bow to them. I called back to the vendor - Kanter if I recall - and all they knew was that these were the correct ones. They are meant to flex so I guess they are alright.

Yes, I am installing all new brake cylinders. That's actually what started all this. After replacing the two back ones, thinking that would solve the lack of braking at the back wheels, I came to realize that there was no fluid coming thru the lines. I tried the usual (mama at the brake petal) and the vacuum at the cylinder end of the line. Nada.

Brian

Yes, I am using what I think is a flare wrench (a box wrench with the end open enough to slip over the brake line) with another wrench on the brass fitting on the hose. There's a lot of play between the wrench and the fitting so I can't really push it. I'm using visegrips.

I have all new hoses although it's curious that when I hold them up against the currently installed ones they are about 1 inch longer and thus will have a bit of a bow to them. I called back to the vendor - Kanter if I recall - and all they knew was that these were the correct ones. They are meant to flex so I guess they are alright.

Yes, I am installing all new brake cylinders. That's actually what started all this. After replacing the two back ones, thinking that would solve the lack of braking at the back wheels, I came to realize that there was no fluid coming thru the lines. I tried the usual (mama at the brake petal) and the vacuum at the cylinder end of the line. Nada.

Brian

Cut the old hose close to the brass fitting and use a 6-point socket. It seems that the exact length is never available, but an extra inch should not be a problem.

Willie

Maybe try metric flare nut wrenches. Sometimes they fit the hex head better.

I had good luck with Kanter until I bought lower ball joints from them. The foreign made crap that they sent was just that. I sent them back, they inspected them and said they were 'within' tolerance. I told them politely to keep them. I put a set of Moog joints on and everything was good. Let the buyer beware.

Bill

Cut the old hose close to the brass fitting and use a 6-point socket. It seems that the exact length is never available, but an extra inch should not be a problem.

Willie

Sounds like a plan, as soon as daytime temp gets back above 40.

I'm struggling with the hydraulic window lines on the 53. My cheap flaring tool was 1 out of 4 at best so I bought an $80 165C from NAPA. Its a neat design but they are still coming out a bit oval. So I plan to return it. These lines are 5/16 so I knew they

would be a little harder to bend. But my bender was also crap. I tried it on a precoated 40 inch tube. So who sells a good bender for 5/16 and is the CuNiFer line really easy to bend and to straighten. I can maybe get a line set for $200 but if I could become tube competent for $300....

Pat

PS A little carefully applied heat can free a stuck fitting.

Hi,

1. The Eastwood brake tubing flaring tool WORKS--first time, every time. http://www.eastwood.com/professional-brake-tubing-flaring-tool.html

When you have made your first flare--and it will be perfect--you won't care what the tool cost you. If I had my money back on all the cheap flaring tools and ruined tubing that I have sent to the dump, my Eastwood tool would be free.

2. CuNiFer tubing is all it is cracked up to be. Forms beautifully, doesn't rust, bends without kinking--but buy a good bending tool anyway. You can straighten a section of the coil tubing by rolling it between two wood planks, or you can buy a straightener, or you can make a straightener.

Check the tools out on youtube.

--Tom

Thanks Tom. Would you recommend a particular bender?

Pat

Hi,

Since you are using 5/16" brake line tubing, I would suggest the Eastwood #12435 bender. Call Eastwood and inquire about a package deal--they may throw in the bender fo' free.

--Tom

btw: I do not work for or have any interest in Eastwood. I just found their flaring and bending tools to be the best available.

Thank you Tom. I ordered an Eastwood flare tool and bender and a roll of

Thanks Tom. I ordered an Eastwood flare tool and bender and am getting a roll of EZ300 copper nickel tubing from Car Quest. I've been plumbing for 38 years and I love good tools as much as old cars. Now if I can just make it pretty.

Pat

Pat

Sounds like a plan, as soon as daytime temp gets back above 40.

I'm back after a bout of cold weather and no heat in garage. Because of several helpful suggestions I have the hose section that goes from the frame to the torque tube off. In the course of trying to free the other end I broke off one of the brake lines going down the strut rod. Realizing I was going to have to replace that one I went ahead and cut the other. It was just as well as getting that hose out was a struggle, even removed and in the vise.

Upon removing the hose the explanation for the lack of fluid to the back wheels was apparent. The interior of the hose had deteriorated, completely blocking it.

While I'm making headway I now have to replace the lines going back along the strut rods to the rear axle. They are firmly held in place by C shaped brackets that are spot welded to the strut rod. Is there any solution other than drilling out those welds ( a lot of flat-on-the -back time ) and rewelding?

Brian

Whoa!!!

Just pry em up with a screwdriver, then after you install the new lines (I would recommend Inline), bend them back over with a rubber hammer.

Whoa!!!

Just pry em up with a screwdriver, then after you install the new lines (I would recommend Inline), bend them back over with a rubber hammer.

Thanks for the tip. I took one look at them and didn't think they would bend. I'll let you know.

Yes, one side just bends up do you can slide the lines in and out.

Yes, one side just bends up do you can slide the lines in and out.

SUCCESS! Because the end of the clamp was on top and difficult to get at I used a pipe wrench to get it started and then inserted the screwdriver. New lines are on order from Inline. Hopefully the brackets have one more bend to them. From other advise received along the way I know not to fasten brake cylinders to backing plates or "T" junction to the frame until lines are attached.

The next challenge is getting the line out of the master cylinder. Keep hitting with Liquid Wrench and one of these times it will brake free. I sure don't want to have to replace that line.

Thanks for all the advise to date.

Brian