NEED HELP - 1933 60 Heat Riser

The heat riser body on our 1933-60 project is badly broken & rotted and suffering additionally from poor earlier repairs. Does anyone have a better one? I found a 50 Series that I can bore and fit with larger tubes. All dimensions are the same as the 60 except it is shorter, requiring a spacer. I'd much rather have a correct 60 Series part. 1932 and/or 1934 do not work. Anyone with a 1933 60???

Thanks!

Tom Rasmussen

Odyssey Restorations, Inc.

Spring Lake Park, MN

763-786-1518

i suffered this also ,a really hard part to find,i looked for years,mine was in eight pieces after i sandblasted it and machined it out for new tubes,still i carried on after all you dont use the exhast heat, just the riser,put 20 hrs in mine worked fine.a month later i found one on ebay.

Sounds like a good candidate for 3D printing patterns for new castings. Or, just hog out a piece of bar stock without the heat chamber.

I might, I have two of them that came with my 33 90, have to check the #s- PM me if you like see what we can come up with-

I might, I have two of them that came with my 33 90, have to check the #s- PM me if you like see what we can come up with-

Thanks - PM sent.

Tom Rasmussen

Tom, sorry they don't appear to be the correct risers, both I think are 80-90 series. One maybe 1932. The other came off my green 33 90, as I remember, but shows a odd number, 146-115. Most heat risers from 1930-1934 start with 146 - XXXX. According to my Marvel book, you should be 146-618 which is a complete heat riser assembly for the series 60. I should show 146- 612. I did a quick scan of the Marvel book, Nash is showing 146- series heat risers, back in the 20s, could this be an answer, convert to Nash or ? Maybe a drastic measure if your sitting out of commission for a couple years.

I keep a spare, rebuilt-, carb, heat riser, gauges , fuel pump etc for my 33 90. have to.

Thanks for checking. I'm hot on the trail of another.... I can always use the 50 Series heata riser and bore it for larger tubes.

Merry Christmas!

Tom

Tom,

If you come up empty, could you send me pics of your riser? We have repaired a number of these in bad shape. We use

a powder spray torch to replace what is lost due to breakage or corrosion. I can spray a whole new section of a casting that is broken away, then remachine the part back to original specs. The tooling and the powder is expensive, so I only use it on rare parts. It has paid for itself every time I use it. I don't like to think of us here at Rumble Seat Garage as a

last resort, but sometimes that's what it comes to. Let us know if we can help.

Regards Erik

Tom, My Marvel Parts book shows the 50 series as # 146-615 if you need that. Someone has written next to these numbers " casting " which is where the numbers are located . Did find some 146 ( heat riser numbers ) in the late 20s models. The numbers don't jive book to casting. As said before my 146-115 came off a 33 90 series so it must of worked. The other, compared to book drawings is likely 1934-1937. The tubes seem to be the same size and they both sit directly on my spare 33 Marvel, so maybe another model will work with some messing with the foot-feed and all ? A guess ? I'll check the number on my 33 90, it's -4 out so will wait a bit for the sun. I'm curious now. I've done this a couple years ago but forgot now.

Not probably the news you want, but the 1933 series 60 heat riser is unique; ALSO the heat tubes in the 1933 series 60 heat riser are NOT interchangeable with any other.

Specifications:

Outside diameter - 1 9/32 inch

Inside diameter - 1 15/64 inch

Length - 4 5/16 inches

Jon.

Update -

Thanks for all the help and good information.

The 50 Series heat riser is the same dimensionally externally with the exception of the very top - which is approx 3/8" shorter than the 60 series. All bolt hole locations are exactly the same and the external dimensions of the casting are the same. There is plenty of 'meat' 'to allow for boring out the tubes and installing the correct 60 series tubes (I always replace these tubes anyway, no matter the condition). I have found a good 50 Series unit that I can use, with a 3/8" shim, if we choose. I would prefer a correct look however, even though this is a driver.

We have spray-weld repaired these in the past - so thanks Roger - it is a good technique. Our original has already been badly repaired, so this one would require cutting to pieces and reconstructing internally, then welding back together. I would use the 50 with the 3/8 shim before spending what it would take to repair this old one.

But.... I have found a correct 60, along with manifolds. I need to gain access to the property and trek into the woods to remove it. 50-50 chance it's also bad, but perhaps a simpler repair then our original.

Thanks again for the help!

Tom Rasmussen

Tom,

Manifold may be the diamond in the ruff..... Couple of those big thick exhaust manifold gaskets to heat riser might take up the slack and would look respectable. I used a couple when I plugged up the heat riser to center section, really can't see that either-

OCM