Value of '31 Mod. 8-66-S

Have spotted a '31 Model 8-66-S Job # 31008 that has been restored in the remote past but well cared for. The tires (650-19) are toast and the paint is flaking in some areas. Chrome rust is present in spots. All the components, however, appear to be present and intact. the engine will turn over but not fire. I am able to perform most mechanical tasks that might be needed to get 'er runnin'. Can anyone provide the value of this car when put back into running, non-concourse, shape? I enjoy a project, but do not want to make an imprudent purchase.

We really need photos to estimate a value... And (most importantly) is the wood body frame in good shape?

We really need photos to estimate a value... And (most importantly) is the wood body frame in good shape?

Thanks, Mark. the wood body frame seems solid.

I have photos but can't seem to figure out how to upload them to this site. Am just needing a general ballpark of value.

Thanks, again, Mark, for your availability and expertise. I have multiple pictures but cannot break the code as to how to link them to this site. If you could send me an email address, I could send them to you. You may choose to post some later so as to be instructive to others. Sorry to be challenging. I am a novice.

A 60-series is neither the smallest nor the largest Buick in 1931. The coupe with sidemounts is a very desireable body style, regardless of the series. My guess, restored, is somewhere between $20,000 and $29,000. Others may disagree.

Pete Phillips, BCA #7338

Leonard, Texas

Thanks, Pete. I'm in Austin. Is the value you quoted AFTER I restore or as is?

Yes, that is restored, as-is depends on what your intentions are as far as how far you want to go with it and at what cost. If you pay to have it done, you'll obviously be far upside down. If you can do it yourself, it would be a fun project. If you're planning on keeping it forever, then the cost of restoring it has a different perspective. It's not a car to restore and make money on.

Great car for the right price. Very nice style!

Pete's ballpark figure is for a restored car. The body wood may be OK, but the brightwork is toast and it doesn't run so you have no idea of the condition of the drivetrain, brakes, etc. It depends on what you consider to be non-concours shape as to what it'll be worth, and there's no telling what that might cost to achieve. Get it running good, without doing any cosmetics, and it's worth maybe half of Pete's estimate.

I agree with the above estimates. I suggest that this is a car that you should be able to buy for $7-10K and put another 2K into it to make it a respectable driver. Have fun with it during good weather & continue to restore it one piece at a time during winter months.

You guys are a wonderful, credible resource. Thank you for taking the time to reply and coach me in my consideration of this endeavor. the owner is asking $25k and reportedly has "turned down $22k". It is an attractive car and a tantalizing prospect but..... My first car was a '50 Dynaflow Super (hand-me-down family car) and this one sparked nostalgia. Thanks again for your counsel. I'll try again but am not optimistic.

You guys are a wonderful, credible resource. Thank you for taking the time to reply and coach me in my consideration of this endeavor. the owner is asking $25k and reportedly has "turned down $22k". It is an attractive car and a tantalizing prospect but..... My first car was a '50 Dynaflow Super (hand-me-down family car) and this one sparked nostalgia. Thanks again for your counsel. I'll try again but am not optimistic.

That's tough, since it looks like a great project. A situation where you really have nothing to say other than "wow...you should have taken that offer. If you ever want to sell it for less, here's my number."

Coincidentally, that was how I got my Buick. I thought it was a lost cause, but the guy called me back, and said he did some more research and was ready to sell.

Just another seller who watches TV auctions and values the car accordingly. I always advise sellers to find a selling price for a similar restored car and deduct the cost of restoring all the parts that need restoration on the car they are selling. Quite often, the numbers will go negative and make the seller's car virtually worthless to restore.

Sometimes, this helps the seller realize how outrageous the asking price is for the his or her car.

Bear Creek, Here,s a great buy. All the work has been done. Just drive and enjoy. $21,000. If only I lived a bit closer.

She is a beauty, but the distance a bit of a stretch!!

Merry Christmas!

Bear Creek, here's another example, a 1934 50 Series. The good ones aren't cheap, and generally restoration cost exceeds market value. You just have to love 'em:

At least it has its landau irons on the right way. Compare it with this one - http://www.curbsideclassic.com/curbside-classics-american/curbside-classic-1931-buick-96-country-club-coupe-the-eight-as-buick-built-it/#comment-232220 - and this one - http://www.imcdb.org/vehicle_737024-Buick-Series-60-64S-1930.html

I continue to marvel at the expertise that comes together in this Forum. It is a gift for a novice to have such geographically disparate members contribute to my education and be of counsel. As stated before, I will try again, but am not hopeful, but as Mark Shaw wrote, " I always advise sellers to find a selling price for a similar restored car and deduct the cost of restoring all the parts that need restoration on the car they are selling. Quite often, the numbers will go negative and make the seller's car virtually worthless to restore." So, to pursue that line of thought, would you with experience and expertise have estimates as to the cost of basic restoration? Tires from Coker are $1800 + mounting. I think I can personally do most of the mechanical things (the untested confidence of a novice). Paint? Brightwork re-plating? The radiator "appears" good. I think the wooden body frame solid (by pushing) but how is the best to tell? Lots of questions and hope I'm not being a pain. Just trying to learn from the masters.

That's an almost impossible question without knowing exactly what your standards are and the exact condition of the car.

Painting it inevitably turns into body repair. Everyone has different standards of chrome. Timeline matters immensely.

I am taking my time (because I am doing it all myself and using time on my side to find the best deals) and found a parts car that saved me huge money, but after 4 years. If I had a 3 year project I would have spent way more for the same stuff.

Do you pay someone $1000 to chrome a bumper or wait to see if one pops on eBay for $500? That happens too. Do you fix wires or end up needing a new wiring harness? You just can't answer these questions without tons more info.

One certainly could predict--"it depends." Had not thought of the time factor as being an accelerator of price. There are just lots that you guys know that I don't, but.....

Thanks and Merry Christmas.

One thing is for sure, if you love your car, that's the most important part. Always start with a car you love. Whether it's the design or whatever else, if you love your car, everything else is easier.

Doc,

Much of what needs to be restored will only be revealed after you start taking things apart. I am not a skilled woodworker, so in my opinion, good solid wood is most important as it could take many hours of skilled woodworking to replace rotted wood in the body. Many project cars end up as parts cars after the owner realizes the time and expense of replacing the wood. Sagging doors & the roll-up windshield mechanism are good indicators of bad wood problems. Swollen wood from a leaky roof often seizes the moving parts of the windshield mechanism, which causes the gears to strip. I had to replace the windshield header board in my first Buick (now my son's 29 Buick) with help from a friend who had every woodworking tool possible. It took most of the day for us to make that one piece of wood to fit correctly so the roll-up windshield could work.

Restoring a prewar car with a wood framed body often requires the talents of a mechanic, painter, electrician and expert woodworker. If you have to pay for more than one or two of these tradesmen, the cost of your restoration could easily exceed the value of the restored car. But if you are handy with tools and/or a good learner, doing the restoration yourself can be very rewarding.