Bumper Removal Update

My second (body color trim) red 90 came with a black rear bumper. I got a color correct rear bumper on CL for not much. I thought after having done the front bumper, the rear should be easy. 7 of 8 bolts were easy. The last one the stud spun. I ended up pulling the shock absorber to remove it, sheared 2 of 3 bolts but got it off. Now it's off, and Will be til I get new hardware.

Planning on using a scotch brite drill attachment to exfoliate the rear frame rails, and under coat. It's exposed and a little rusty. The front of this one is immaculate, the rear must have stuck out of the barn it was in.

Off topic, pm me if you have rear reflectors. Thanks.

PD210,

There's a product named *POR-15* that is an excellent choice for coating the area mentioned in your post. It's a bit pricy and you have to get the whole system (wash - prep - and coating) but it's good stuff.

John F.

Appears to be chemically similar to motorcycle tank sealer. Looks like it may be worth investing in. The sunroof coupe was done by Ziebart when it was new, and now with 220k + on the clock, it is solid underneath with minimal body rust.

I had some great results from rubberized under coating with my old daily driver Sunfire, it had 175k on the body, driven through MI winters, and no rust. A little coverage can make a lot of difference. Neither Reatta is going to be winter driven as far as I can foresee, but keeping the rust at bay is still a priority. This por15 stuff sounds like the real deal.

Thanks M55, you always have something helpful to say even when I'm just rambling.

I agree that POR-15 stuff is really good. Only issue I've had was when I used it where I was going to do body work or weld later on. The stuff is rock hard and not easily removed once it's applied. I have since made sure to apply it in areas that I don't plan to work later on.

another recommendation for POR-15 (brush on) and their prep products: "Marine Clean" and "Metal Ready".

spray on the MC (glove up!) and lightly scrub with a wire brush to remove loose rust. the MR will add some grip to the surface to help the P-15 on some not so rusty areas.

for hard to reach areas, i use Eastwood's "Rust Encapsulator" spray with good results. once i ran out of spray when i was almost done and finished up with Rustoleum "Rust Reformer" - available at any FLAPS or "Lowe Depot":) stores.

if you want to use undercoating after that - no problem. if not using the rust products prior, over time the UC may start flaking off in rust areas.

hope this helps!