1909 Buick carburetor rebuilding near Peekskill, NY

An AACA friend of mine (Ray) has a 1909 Buick and needs work on its carburetor. He would like to have someone who is near by do the work. His number is 845 528-5712

I would pack it up well, and ship it to the Old Carb Doctor.

http://oldcarbdoctor.com

Or you might try

http://www.strombergof.com/Stromberg_RF_Photos.php

The CarbKing is another source. He is not in your local area.

try Larry Isgro on Long Island

I doubt that a carb specialist is needed because Schebler carbs are so simple.

Schebler carbs are not very good runners as they either idle good or run good; but they typically don't do both.

I doubt that a carb specialist is needed because Schebler carbs are so simple.

Schebler carbs are not very good runners as they either idle good or run good; but they typically don't do both.

A carb specialist may not be needed, but often a good machinist is handy. Yes, the Scheblers are quite simple; but the reason they generally don't function well on the early engines is because they are generally worn completely out!

The air valve and the air valve shaft both wear to the point both generally need replacing; as will the air valve spring which is generally fatigued. The spring and valve both come in the rebuilding kit, but the shaft does not come in the kit. Also, many Scheblers have the fuel valve seat machined in the bowl (not replaceable); and this often needs to be addressed.

However, do the Schebler D correctly, and they work pretty well on the early low-RPM engines. Cannot say the same for some of the Scheblers which came after the model D.

Jon.

When I got my all original 1910 Buick all the "experts" said that I have to replace both the origonal magneto and Schebler carb because they were no good.

I'm pretty hard headed about stuff like that. Buick sold as many model 10's as Ford did model T's. That tells me that they did work when they were new and should still work.

The car was in such great condition that all it really needed was paint, getting the engine going and cleaning up the driveline.

I'll admit that the mag and carb drove me crazy for a while - but I persisted.

One of the major problems I had was getting the fuel mixture right with the adjustment screw on the botton of the carb.

The taper on the end that adjusts the fuel flow was very blunt and just a slight turn would turn the mixture from very rich to starving.

Carb King may not like my solution, but it worked.

I machined the tip of the screw so it had a much sharper angle so I had better mixture control. That completely solved the carb problem and the car ran perfectly after that.

The fact that the car had nearly no use and nothing was worn out was a big plus.

Don - sounds like a very good solution to me. The original taper did not allow for really precise adjustment. Haven't really had problems with the taper myself, but sounds like a definate improvement.

Problems we used to see were that the air valve shaft and the portion of the air valve which slid on the shaft were so badly worn that the air valve would not be plumb with its seat at idle. To get the engine to idle, many would adjust the screw for more tension on the air valve which would improve the idle; but the increased tension would then create a rich mixture at higher RPM's. Machining a new shaft and the new air valve which would tighten the fit and allow the air valve to be plumb at idle would solve the issue.

These model D Scheblers seem to work very well on low RPM engines. As engines became more sophisticated, and were capable of higher RPM, the model D didn't adapt well.

However, model D's WERE used on small industrial constant speed engines as late as post WWII.

Jon.