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1964 carb/intake question(s)


AD8

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Hi All,

I have the carburetor pulled and ready to drop-off to be rebuilt ('64 401 w/4GC, 7024040). Meantime, I need to clean the intake and get a new gasket. I have heard from a hi-perf acquaintance that the best gasket isn't a gasket at all but a squeeze tube type material. It's been a while since I've monkeyed with fuel/air issues. Other than stock parts, I would like to know of any modern replacements or newer technology that would be superior to the stock gasket.

Also, what best to clean and prep intake manifold, carb cleaner good enough? You know, while I'm asking, is there anything special I should ask the rebuild tech to do or inspect or change while rebuilding?

Thanks,

Jim

BCA 43102

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Bulldog and Jon,

Thanks for your input. Sorry for late reply. Need to confirm my application requires s.s. baffle and gasket. I have attached photo of gasket removed from manifold. It appears to have a metallic element in it's construction.

post-44854-143142872159_thumb.jpg

I need to verify if this a baffle, as discussed. What determines determines the need for s.s. baffle? Also need opinion and comment on the following:

1. It has been reccommened that I tap and plug the holes at both ends of the heat channel in the intake manifold under the carb. Reason: As this function was designed to reduce icing during humid, low temperature situations, it is no longer applicable for a car that is only driven in warm, optimal weather conditions. It will increase overall performance.

2. The heat stove in the exhaust manifold appears to have failed as evidenced by build-up inside the choke. How difficult is removal/replacement of this part, or would an electric choke be the easier/better/smarter solutuion? If electric choke; optimal power source, wiper motor?

3. Were the plates on these carbs steel or aluminum, or both. Mine does not appear to be aluminum.

I am attempting to prepare for the reinstallation of the carb and I keep coming up with more questions.

Thanks,

Jim

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Bulldog and Jon,

Thanks for your input. Sorry for late reply. Need to confirm my application requires s.s. baffle and gasket. I have attached photo of gasket removed from manifold. It appears to have a metallic element in it's construction.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]285371[/ATTACH]

I need to verify if this a baffle, as discussed. What determines determines the need for s.s. baffle? Also need opinion and comment on the following:

1. It has been reccommened that I tap and plug the holes at both ends of the heat channel in the intake manifold under the carb. Reason: As this function was designed to reduce icing during humid, low temperature situations, it is no longer applicable for a car that is only driven in warm, optimal weather conditions. It will increase overall performance.

2. The heat stove in the exhaust manifold appears to have failed as evidenced by build-up inside the choke. How difficult is removal/replacement of this part, or would an electric choke be the easier/better/smarter solutuion? If electric choke; optimal power source, wiper motor?

3. Were the plates on these carbs steel or aluminum, or both. Mine does not appear to be aluminum.

I am attempting to prepare for the reinstallation of the carb and I keep coming up with more questions.

Thanks,

Jim

(0) The pictured item is a flange gasket, a.k.a. mounting gasket; it is NOT a baffle. The Carter carb for this application requires a baffle (Carter # 186-61). I do not have sufficient information to know if the Rochester requires the baffle, but judging from the gasket, I would guess it does.

(1) The heat holes in the manifold were not placed there to prevent icing; rather to improve the efficiency of the fuel system. In "carburetion 101" you learn there are three methods of improving fuel atomization: (1) increased air velocity, (2) additional heat, and (3) throw more fuel at the engine. Take your choice. Removing the heat will slightly improve performance on a race-car always with the engine at high RPM; NOT on a street car.

(2) Electric chokes do NOT work well with earlier automatic transmissions. Not saying you cannot make it work if you drink a couple of cups of coffee each time after starting the car before you put it in gear in order to allow everything to fully warm. Check this link: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Automaticchokes.htm

If you really want the electric choke, would highly suggest: (A) carry a cell phone to call the tow truck, (B) invest in tow insurance, or © convert to a manual transmission. Or you might consider limiting driving the car to ambient temperatures above 80 degrees F. I don't know how difficult a proper repair would be; but if my car, the ONLY repair considered would be to make the heat choke functional.

(3) I do not have a Carter 186-61 to check, but MOST of the baffles were made from stainless steel.

Jon.

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If the base of your carb is Aluminum, you need the stainless heat shield. If the base if iron, you don't. Get out your magnet.

Exhaust gasses will eat through aluminum but won't eat through iron. If you need the stainless shield, the base gasket goes on the manifold and the stainless is sandwiched between the base gasket and the carb. The stainless shield needs to contact the carb so that heat can be transferred to the carb.

Ed

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An aftermarket choke stove kit can be had from Autozone

Here's how mine is mounted;

DSCN0140.jpg

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/dorman-help-choke-stove-kit-03840/5012120-p?cm_mmc=ACQ-_-Google-_-GPLA-_-5012120&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=5012120&ci_gpa=pla_with_promotion&ci_kw=&iv_=__iv_p_1_g_12425515822_x_pla_with_promotion_y_6201684_f_online_o_5012120_z_US_i_en_j_71043850942_s__n_g_t__d_c_v__vi__&gclid=Cj0KEQiAtZWkBRC9ibSfhoKEyLYBEiQA5fDxkaSudL-mSbI24wSoAdBFKPANjD5yk3QpYKRg_nl29LoaAqh58P8HAQ#utm_source=acq&utm_medium=google&utm_campaign=gpla&utm_content=5012120

5012120_rnb_03840_pri_detl.jpgChoke stove kit

I've seen others with replace the original choke stove pipe in the manifold. I don't know where to get that....

I have the heat passages in mine open. It helps warm up the engine faster. Mine will stumble considerably if driven before it warms up.

I've been lucky not to have the vapor lock problems that so many have. I've kept the carb heat functional on mine.

Edited by bhambulldog
add photo (see edit history)
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Thanks to all who commented. I have already resolved several issues and decided my next task. For the price, the Dorman Heat Stove repair kit is well worth picking up, even if it's just for experimentation.

Thanks again,

Jim

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